Time for some slotted and drilled rotor brake work smh

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
What brand are they and how many miles do you have on them?
Also, how's the brake dust?

I have Detroit axel drilled and slotted along with their brake pads and the brake dust from their pads is horrible! I'm sure it's bad just because they are probably getting ground/shaved by those slots, but still, it's bad.
 
Dec 5, 2011
574
Central Pennsylvania
What brand are they and how many miles do you have on them?
Also, how's the brake dust?

I have Detroit axel drilled and slotted along with their brake pads and the brake dust from their pads is horrible! I'm sure it's bad just because they are probably getting ground/shaved by those slots, but still, it's bad.

It may just be the pads breaking in. I have Max Advanced Brakes brand coated rotors and their "M1 Supreme" ceramic pads. The first 1000 miles was absolutely horrible for brake dust. I did a little maintenance after over 1000 miles and the brake dust including cleaning the wheels, rotors, pads, shims and calipers and then painting the brackets and calipers. Ever since, the dust has reduced dramatically.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Maverick6587

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
@TequilaWarrior You may be right. I am only at around 500 miles on those pads right now. We'll see how they do after 1000 miles.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TequilaWarrior

Brian K

Member
Apr 5, 2012
32
I just replace the pads and rotors with Power Stop Coated Evolution from RockAuto. I declined the drilled and slotted option because of lots of posts about the rotors cracking and not any real difference in performance over non D&S. Apparently D&S generate more dust . So far not much dust with the regular rotors and I remain hopeful it stays that way. The old brakes started to vibrate lots when going down a hill for a while - but lots of posts says this was due to incorrect bedding in of the pads and not because the rotors warp when heated up. I wonder about that because when cold they were smooth, but only vibrated when hot. I did bed the new ones in according to Power Stop directions. I generally get about 60K on the front pads. The new ones seem much better than the old ones and the pedal seems firmer. Didn't bleed the brakes this time yet because the rear bleeder screws were rusted in and I didn't want to break them off. Now I have to source new bleeder screws.
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
"The old brakes started to vibrate lots when going down a hill for a while - but lots of posts says this was due to incorrect bedding in of the pads and not because the rotors warp when heated up."
I don't know what you mean by "a while", but if your on the brakes too long they will heat up. It's better to down shift. :twocents:
 

C-ya

Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,098
Didn't bleed the brakes this time yet because the rear bleeder screws were rusted in and I didn't want to break them off. Now I have to source new bleeder screws.

At least you stopped before they got broken off. I was going to bleed all four corners to replace the old fluid but could only do the fronts. I was looking for new bleeders but ended up getting "new" calipers. I haven't changed them yet, but I do have them! :Lager Louts:
 

jmonica

Member
Apr 2, 2013
384
Hamburg, NJ
I've always thought that my rotors were warped when I started to have the vibration. Not the case. It's due to improper seating as mentioned. You can't always just slap a set of pads on and have everything be ok as I have learned over the years. Not at all saying that's what was done on your vehicle. Just chiming in because I'm bored out of my mind at the moment. Good luck mate!
 

Brian K

Member
Apr 5, 2012
32
Rockauto has a bleeder screw kits for calipers so I'll buy them next time I want something from RA. Hopefully I don't break them off, but if I do, an EasyOut should fix that problem. I soaked them with PB Blaster.
I still think the vibration after heating up going down downhill is because the rotors are getting thinner from wear, and the heat buildup causes the warping - but who knows. I understand the argument for incorrect bedding-in and uneven pad material on the rotors, but don't really buy it because that would suggest that the rotors would warp shortly after initial installation during a heat up cycle and they were fine for many many miles and got worse over time (rotors getting thinner). Now though, I replace the rotors each time I change the pads because of all the rust that seems to grow on the rotors which cause funny uneven pad wear. Hopefully the coated rotors last longer and don't rust as much. The new pads and rotors sure feel nice now and no vibration either - so I must have bedded them in correctly! Will see after 60K miles.
 

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
@TequilaWarrior You may be right. I am only at around 500 miles on those pads right now. We'll see how they do after 1000 miles.
You were right @TequilaWarrior . After just over 500 miles the dust started calm down. I was putting new rotors and pads on the 07 and switched to the Napa Advantage pads though. I've nothing but great things about them and they are amazing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TequilaWarrior

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,271
Posts
637,476
Members
18,472
Latest member
MissCrutcher

Members Online