Testing the I6 oil pressure without the J-42907?

MAY03LT

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Nov 18, 2011
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Delmarva
oilgauge1.jpg

I removed the oil pressure switch to test the oil pressure and none of the adapters in my otc set worked. So I fired up moosemans manuals and found this:






oilgauge2.jpg

Found the J42907 on ebay:

oilgauge3.jpg
Chances are my gauge would work with this adapter but $100 to test the oil pressure aint gonna happen LOL.

What I'm thinking is to buy another oil pressure switch and take it to lowes. Then match up the threads for the engine and match up the threads to the gauge and put together an adapter. It should come out to be considerably lower then the cost of the stupid j tool. I know I could just take my switch in to match up the threads but time is rarely on my side anymore.
 

mrrsm

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Drew... You are a LIFESAVER...Man! If it helps... I found an OTC Version of this same tool on eBay for around $65.00 with Free S&H Here...(as and we speak...They HAVE three LEFT!)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-Robinai...730119?hash=item51e8e5dfc7:g:o10AAOSwawpXrGuL

FWIW... Years ago... I decided that rather than Pre-Oil GM 660 V6 Engines with the ordinary method of spinning the Oil Pump using a Twist Drill and instead... go in through the Oil Filter Manifold...so I designed and built this thing so that no matter what... ONLY FILTERED BREAK-IN OIL could pressurize the Engine Block and of course... the only way to do that was Externally. So I glommed this Ancient Tractor FRAM Filter Contraption off of eBay after I found out that they still manufacture Oil Filters for the damned thing and went to work on it!

But then I had to give up on this project... because I ran into some serious (bursting or leaking) problems trying to modify, adapt and braze a Common Oil Filter Cannister made of mild steel of the same size to behave EXACTLY like the device you have described from @Mooseman 's cache of great data...and so the solution to my Pre-Oiler problems on my GM Atlas 4.2L Engine Swap Donor Motor...has arrived...Thanks Man!DSC06821.jpg DSC06825.jpg DSC06822.jpg DSC06823.jpg DSC06826.jpg DSC06827.jpg DSC06828.jpg DSC06829.jpg DSC06830.jpg DSC06832.jpg DSC06831.jpg OTC7219OILPRESSUREADAPTER.jpeg kandmoilpressuretester1.jpeg :
 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,324
Ottawa, ON
What about just going to a pick-a-part and taking off some plugs off the side of the engine? There are 5 of those plugs under the exhaust manifold and may be the same thread. Then drill and tap for the oil pressure tester.
 
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MAY03LT

Original poster
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Nov 18, 2011
3,420
Delmarva
Drew... You are a LIFESAVER...Man! If it helps... I found an OTC Version of this same tool on eBay for around $65.00 with Free S&H Here...(as and we speak...They HAVE three LEFT!)

Thanks boss! Thinking ahead, if I want to compare my contraption to an oem (equivalent) contraption this will fit the bill much nicer. :thumbsup:

So let me get this straight...if the average person had a suspected oil pressure problem and wanted to do this test, they'd have to:

-get an oil pressure switch socket and
-get an oil pressure test kit (and then find out it doesn't fit) and
-spend at least $65 on the fancy adapter

That's just nutty right there!
 

mrrsm

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Drew...LOL...Are you sitting down? LOL... My wife just brought this thing in from the mail...you are going to LOVE this! I wasn't certain if a 1/8" X 27-TPI NPT to M16 X 1.5MM Oil and Temperature Adapter off of an LS9 Engine would work... but the images answer all the questions and solves the problem in a much more "adaptive" way...and with MUCH less expense, too:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...meter+2268.TRS0&_nkw=auto+meter+2268&_sacat=0

...and then...besides a decent Oil Pressure Gauge or the one with your Tester...all you'll need is this Copper Tube & OPG HW Kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MECHANICAL-...ash=item5436502b1f:g:83cAAOSwdrRXGAEW&vxp=mtr

s-l1600.jpg


DSC06849.jpg DSC06848.jpg Use a Nice, Long Breaker Bar or Long Flex Arrow Style Torque Wrench here...Very, Very SLOOOWLY then POP!...it'll come loose all of a sudden...without cracking the Engine Block:
DSC06839.jpg DSC06842.jpg DSC06845.jpg DSC06836.jpg DSC06834.jpg DSC06852.jpg DSC06844.jpg DSC06833.jpg DSC06838.jpg DSC06851.jpg DSC06840.jpg DSC06854.jpg
I Can't Stop SMILING...LOL! :>) DSC06850.jpg DSC06846.jpg DSC06835.jpg DSC06855.jpg DSC06847.jpg DSC06837.jpg
 

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littleblazer

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Jul 6, 2014
9,265
Isn't there a test port with a slightly more common thread pattern?
 

MAY03LT

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Nov 18, 2011
3,420
Delmarva
My wife just brought this thing in from the mail...

Man that is on heck of a coincidence right there! Thanks for the sharing!:wooot:

Isn't there a test port with a slightly more common thread pattern?

If there is I hope someone will share the deets. Every TB oil pressure problem that I've seen over the years (in real life and the forums) was just a bad gauge. I don't recall anyone ever doing an actual test.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,324
Ottawa, ON
This may be of interest. Uses my idea of using one of those plugs.

 
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Apr 26, 2014
53
When I wanted an accurate reading I(like most people) initially bought a new sender. I took the old one and ripped all the plastic off and got it to bare metal. I then tapped it so a hose for a grease gun would fit and attached a gauge to the other end of the hose. Why not use the already threaded piece from the old sender? Cheap and easy.
 
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mrrsm

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To amplify on @Mooseman 's suggestion...

If anyone is deciding to build their own “Homegrown Engine Pre-oiler”… it will make no difference in what style your designs turn out to be...whether pneumatic, mechanical, electrical or some hybrid of all three options… you will still need to consider installing an Oil Filter to capture the smallest particles in your fresh combo stream of Pressurized Oil and Engine Break-In Additives. The problem with this “Automotive Application” idea though, is that you can scour the Automotive Parts World and NOT find anything either practical or standard to the industry that meets the mark because NOBODY does this “Pre-Oiling Thing” as a standard “Shade Tree Mechanic” procedure ...anywhere (neither does it apply to The Professional Mechanic...just ask Drew… @MAY03LT).

But being the Goof that I am (always thinking like a Mad Inventor) it occurred to me that in this narrow and limited but extremely critical process for our GM Atlas 4.2L and many other engines… “Oil is Oil” and so I thought about the general filtration system of the ubiquitous Home or Business Fuel Oil Burner in hundreds of thousands of American homes and wondered whether there was anything they have in the HVAC and Heating arena that would fit the bill.

Sure enough...for around a very reasonable $35.00…. you can buy the necessary Oil In-Oil Out-Screw-On Filtration System and add it into the downstream line of whatever device you decide to build and have a filtration system capable of stopping particles as small as 10 Microns. The other serious consideration is that this device is designed with an upper limit for pressuring your Oil Stream at a Maximum of 60 PSI (40 Gallons Per Hour). Since this filtration will occur over a matter of around 30 minutes to an hour of General Pre-Oiling Utility, then the other long term Automotive Filtration problems are not factors here that you have to worry about.

Our concern here should be that if there is any haste in trying to pump Fresh Oil into a Re-Built or Long Dormant Engine… and an Open Oil Galley Port that sidesteps the Oil Filter in the Engine Block is used… the chances of inducing dirt, sand and metal particle into the block without knowing it could spell disaster for the motor and are too terrible to risk. I like this idea… so I bought both the $21.00 Cannister with drop-in filter style design version (14 Gallons Per Hour) as well as THIS device listed below that even comes with a Mounting Bracket and Screw-On Filter (Replacement Filters run around $10.00). ...So I hope this idea gets mixed in with your own thinking about what to build… and how best to build it!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITCO-264-9...189713?hash=item43f27e90d1:g:guUAAOSw-YVXmlye

MITCO MFG.
#264-90BM
SPIN-ON OIL FILTER WITH TOP & BRACKET
40 GPH
3/8" NPT
MSRP $56.00 (Check eBay First!)


Mitco 264-90M Spin-On Oil Filter Complete
Replaces: Garber 11VF-OB and 11BV-M, Crown 41439, Wix 24100, Westwood F100, Nozzle Guard NG 300-G, Sid Harvey s 264-90
For use in residential and commercial applications
Filter Element
  • Heavy Duty outer shell construction is plated and chemically treated to resist corrosion
  • 10 micron pleated composite element is 3 times thicker than standard filters for deeper filtration
  • Rated 60 psi maximum working pressure Highest in the Industry
  • Rated 40 gph flow rate Highest in the industry
  • UR® recognized in both US and Canada
Manifold Design:
  • #380 Aluminum alloy top offers 50% greater tensile strength vs. competitive cast iron tops
  • Precision, die cast construction is considered superior to traditional sand casting that results in pinhole leaks
  • 3/8 NPT

MITCO26491MSPINONFILTER.png MITCO246-P1MOILFILTER.jpg MITCO264-90BM.png MITCO246MOILMANIFOLDOILDFILTERF.jpg MITCO246MOILMANIFOLDOILDFILTERE.jpg MITCO246MOILMANIFOLDOILDFILTERD.jpg MITCO246MOILMANIFOLDOILDFILTERC.jpg MITCO246MOILMANIFOLDOILDFILTERB.jpg MITCOOILFILTERCANNISTER.png MITCO246MOILMANIFOLDOILDFILTERA.jpg EBAYMITCOILFILTERSALE.png MITCO246MOILMANIFOLDOILDFILTER4.jpg MITCO246MOILMANIFOLDOILDFILTER3.jpg MITCO246MOILMANIFOLDOILDFILTER1.jpg MITCO246MOILMANIFOLDOILDFILTER.jpg MITCO246MOILMANIFOLDANDFILTER.jpg SAM_2252s.jpg Oil_Filter_Duplex194-DJFs.jpg heatingoilfiltersystem6.jpg heatingoilfiltersystem5.jpg heatingoilfiltersystem4.jpg heatingoilfiltersystem3.jpg heatingoilfiltersystem2.jpg heatingoilfiltersystem1.jpg heatingoilfiltersystem.jpg
 
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DollarBill

Member
Sep 9, 2016
1
Butler,Pa.
I'm going threw the same thing trying to check the oil pressure on my i6 trailblazer. i think i'm going to weld a 1/8 inch pipe bung on a cheap oil filter and read it from there. i changed the oil pressure switch and still no oil pressure.
 

mrrsm

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Just around the time that Drew was posing this question of not having to use any Special Tools to take Direct Readings of Oil Pressure "At The Galley" ... I was trying to dope out something semi-permanent to mount directly to my Donor Motor while it was still mounted on an Engine Stand and be useful as soon as my Pre-Oiler Build was completed and work off of ANY available Oil Galley. The reason this would work is because in Fluid Dynamics... Say you have a length of pipe that is 5 Miles long and when filled completely with a column of ANY type liquid or fluid... If you push inwards on one end of that fluid and it moves 1".... 5 Miles away... the Ass End of the Fluid Column will also simultaneously move exactly 1", too. So it really does not matter where in the Pressurized Oil System that you plug in to take your readings... as long as the line it is being connected up to is being pressurized by the Oil Pump with absolutely NO AIR BUBBLES IN BETWEEN:

Anyhow... the idea I was working on back then had to do with wanting to more or less "Plug IN" an M16 X 2.00MM Oil Galley Adapter and run either a 1/8" Nylon or Copper Line upwards from the Take Off Oil Galley Port adjacent the Oil Filter Manifold and guide it around any obstructions; neither close to any excessively HOT components nor get anywhere near where any Cables Pulleys Bell Cranks or Serpentine Belts would make contact and risk bursting or breaking open the Oil Line open at any point in between and wind up spewing pressurized Engine Oil all over the place.

And of course the Luxury Feature here would be if the Back Light inside of the Oil Gauge was somehow connected to an Accessory Fused link that would work off of the Interior Light Switch Circuit and turn on that light and be viewable at night time. THAT would be a "Nice Touch" for checking things "Under The Hood" in Low or No Light Conditions.

I started thinking about the difficulty of using such Fragile Oil lines... and after poking around on Amazon and eBay... I found a company up in Canada that produces Galvanized and Zinc Coated 3/16" Automotive Brake Lines in 25" Lengths and Pressure Flare Connecting Hardware that would require Double Flares in the ends of the Brake Line in order to function. However... What I was really thinking of doing with the BL was simply routing either a length of either Plastic or Copper through the inside of the tubing to act as a protective conduit.

But then I thought "Nah... What if the Engine Vibrations causes the interior soft line to abrade or work harden and burst open?" I mean I could probably pre-fit the Copper or Nylon Tube inside of the Brake Line and then fill up the interior of the line with pressurized Permatex RTV to act as the means to fix the inside line in place... But things were getting a little too exotic there and so I decided against doing it.

And so the last consideration is to simply use the Brake Line itself and employ Brass Fittings at the Take Off Adapter M16 X 2.00MM Oil Galley Plug and also where it connects up to an Oil Pressure Gauge attached somewhere in Plain View at the TOP Front of the Engine. But the problem is... none of the Brass adapters I have to work with are compatible across so many different platforms... and until I can sort THAT problem out... all I have is a Nice Pile of Parts to do the job. There is no way at the present time to reliably connect them all together without expanding the Brake Line up to 5/16" on one end and then shrinking down the end that attaches to the 1/8" Brass Pressure fitting on the back of the Oil Pressure Gauge. There are no "Charts" that will help to sort out the best way to do this job. Nonetheless... I still WANT One!

DSC07798.jpeg DSC07803.jpeg DSC07805.jpeg DSC07806.jpeg DSC07808.jpeg DSC07810.jpeg DSC07814.jpeg DSC07818.jpeg DSC07820.jpeg
 
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AtlWrk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
674
Just around the time that Drew was posing this question of not having to use any Special Tools to take Direct Readings of Oil Pressure "At The Galley" ... I was trying to dope out something semi-permanent to mount directly to my Donor Motor while it was still mounted on an Engine Stand and be useful as soon as my Pre-Oiler Build was completed and work off of ANY available Oil Galley. The reason this would work is because in Fluid Dynamics... Say you have a length of pipe that is 5 Miles long and when filled completely with a column of ANY type liquid or fluid... If you push inwards on one end of that fluid and it moves 1".... 5 Miles away... the Ass End of the Fluid Column will also simultaneously move exactly 1", too. So it really does not matter where in the Pressurized Oil System that you plug in to take your readings... as long as the line it is being connected up to is being pressurized by the Oil Pump with absolutely NO AIR BUBBLES IN BETWEEN:

This applies to STATIC fluid only. When the fluid is flowing, like the oil in your engine, there are losses (pressure drops) that are dependent on temperature (viscosity), flow rate, passage length and diameter, the presence of bends (bend radius and turning angle), roughness of the passage, other obstructions, protuberances or transitions, etc. These losses add up as you get further downstream.

Granted, any galley plug is likely going to be a relatively short distance from the pump with large passages in between but you will have some losses along the way. Are these negligible? Maybe, maybe not. You could be off less than the error of the pressure gauge itself, it could be a couple of PSI, it could be 10+ psi. The only way to know for sure is to measure both at the pump (actually post filter) and your location simultaneously. If you're just looking to monitor trends to keep track of wear, filter condition, oil temp status, etc. this is less critical. But if you're looking for an absolute measure then the location of the pressure tap definitely matters.

A couple of additional notes:
The length and size of the line between the pressure tap and your gauge doesn't matter (within reason) for the reason you stated before because in this case the fluid is not flowing through the tube to the gauge. it is effectively static and only changes pressure.

The presence of air in this line also doesn't particularly matter (assuming it is normally sized). The oil will press on the air and compress it until its pressure is the same as the oil. Which will continue to press on the oil or gauge downstream of it so everything in the line up to the gauge will be the same pressure. If you put a block of foam on a bathroom scale then stand on it, it will read the same as if you stood directly on it, no? The compressibility (springiness) of the air will have a dampening effect on the pressure read by the gauge but this can actually be advantageous (less needle bounce) and is often done intentionally with gauge "snubbers" to protect them pressure transients that could damage them.
 

mrrsm

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Nicely described ...and I cannot disagree with your explanation. But my concern here begins with the idea that the presence of the Line that Feeds the Oil Pressure Gauge is essentially... a Dead End. It is for this reason that it is wise to try and "bleed" off any Trapped Air off and have a Solid Column of Fluid so that when the Engine is NOT rotating... the Air that was previously compressed in the Fluid Column of Oil Galley ... that in the case of my use will be at the point immediate to the Oil Filter Out Port... can gradually exert a sufficient force on the fluid in that line to bleed the Oil backwards.

In some cases, If enough Air is present... it can force the Oil in the Galley down and back towards the Crankcase and present a situation where the Gerotor Oil Pump might cavitate on Start Up long enough for the critical amount of time it takes for the Engine Rotating Assembly to achieve enough RPM in the absence of the nourishing oil and expose the engine to unnecessary wear and tear. It might seem like its "Trying to Separate Fly-Sh*t from Pepper"... but I'm an extremely Superstitious Mechanic and would prefer the Guarantee that the capillary action of a Solid Column of Oil in each Galley ...and in the Dead End Line that feeds my OPG will NOT completely vacate the line once the Engine is shut off... and that the Oil will more or less... stay right where it is supposed to be and STICK in place.

They would nor put Air Bleeder Valves on the top of the Mitco Oil Filter Manifolds if they didn't think that vacating as much Air from the system as possible was a Damn Good Idea.

As for the efficacy of placing the Oil Pressure Gauge Take Off Line "at any port"... This is an excerpt from Page 12 of a Technical White Paper (See the Link Below) that describes why even with all of those potential places for the Oil Pressure to drop just as you explained… the Gerotor Pump generates a HUGE enough of a volume of fluid moving through the system as to all but ensure that at 11 Gallons of Oil Per Minute circulating through the Engine Block… so consequently...drop offs in Oil Pressure would not be very significant... not matter how far away from the source of the Oil Pump the Oil Pressure Gauge is placed:

The oil pump pulls oil from the oil pan, through the oil pickup tube. It then forces oil through the oil filter and into the oil galleries. The oil pump’s Gerotor design uses eccentric lobes to move oil from the inlet to outlet ports. An inner ring with 10 lobes, driven by the front of the crankshaft, is surrounded by 11 lobes on an outer ring. As oil enters the pump, the eccentric design compresses the oil, then releases the oil at a regulated max pressure of 65 psi at 2,500 rpm, circulating 11 gallons per minute. The pump body is made of aluminum, and the Gerotor gears are made of powder metal.

The pressure regulator is a spring and piston design that is incorporated into the oil pump assembly. A by-pass valve is also installed into the cylinder block in the main oil passage between the oil pump and the oil filter. This valve regulates the amount of oil pressure that is applied to the oil filter. During the filtering of oil, there is a restriction of oil flow through the filter, causing a build up of pressure (typically under cold oil conditions). When the pressure differential meets 18 psi the valve opens to by-pass a portion of oil around the filter to protect the filter element from collapsing.

http://vortec4200.com/index_htm_files/vortec4200.pdf
 
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gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Use a Nice, Long Breaker Bar or Long Flex Arrow Style Torque Wrench here...Very, Very SLOOOWLY then POP!...it'll come loose all of a sudden...without cracking the engine block.
View attachment 77684

I tried that last year....couldn't get past the SLOOOWLY part..lol. I thought for sure something was going to break. Nice to know it's actually a threaded plug so maybe I will try again.

I actually tried an adapter from Glow Shift that sandwiches between the filter and the housing , similiar to the Robin air part but alot cheaper....about $30. I wasn't happy with the threaded port, fitment was very tight, not much tolerance for Teflon tape.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-filter-sender-adapter-20mm-1-5-thread.aspx

Nice job MRRSM, I might try that.
 
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