Switching from N back into any drive gear
- Thread starter 64falconcpe
- Start date
dfc739
Member
Mounce
Member
I agree, my Shift Linkage Bushing broke at Brandon's a few weeks ago. If that's what the issue is 64, you can still get into drive, all you gotta do is pull parking brake back, make sure it's all the way back and then reach underneath your rig next to the transmission pan and put it into gear that way. I had to do it for a week. It's annoying as he'll, but atleast you can still drive your rig.Robbabob said:
Mounce
Member
I would not advise doing that unless you know for sure that your parking brake is working well, even then I'd be scared to do it. My parking brake won't hold it's own weight.
OK point taken I didn't get to finish post yesterday ( dinner Christmas that said ) Oops. I've been all over the internet trying to get info on making my 4x4 trailblazer work in the winter, I thought it would make a good winter beater. Starting to wonder though it doesn't seem to like snow!
I've found multiple comments on how to put the transfer case into N, but none on what you need to do to take it out of N and get the transfer case to re-engage. Sense the N option is secretive I am hoping that there is a secret to re-engaging the T-case.
I've noticed that quite a few requests for more history which I get just remember you asked for it! ( I'm not whining just saying. )
Bought truck two summers ago with high miles 245k but it seemed solid I got it cheap knowing it would need some work. I started with the obvious: Tires, Brakes, Fluids flush and re-fill, etc. and the T-case shift motor in the back of the truck previous owner said it was bad so I ordered one from rock auto meanwhile I let wife drive back and forth to work in 2WH to shake out the bugs. Lots and lots of bugs! Then of course we had our first snow before I put the encoder motor in and it came home on a tow truck I thought the T-case had slipped into N but after crawling around under the thing in the snow and checking it out the rear end took a powder!
Due to some health issues it was summer again before the thing came off of the jack stands new switch and encoder motor installed along with many other issues repaired But still no 4x4 ran diagnostics on it computer bad OK so I started looking into replacement let wife drive it in the mean time, so I drag my feet fall hits I ordered re-con control module from Auto zone while waiting for it we have first snow TB comes home on a tow truck.
Truck back on jack stands pulled encoder motor back off figuring the T-case is gone but no I think I lucked out since it was in N again the new encoder had shifted into N so I re-installed it replaced module hooked batt back up and it will not re-engage.
I want to make sure I'm not missing a super secret procedure required to get this thing re-engaged before borrowing the scan tool again.
I've found multiple comments on how to put the transfer case into N, but none on what you need to do to take it out of N and get the transfer case to re-engage. Sense the N option is secretive I am hoping that there is a secret to re-engaging the T-case.
I've noticed that quite a few requests for more history which I get just remember you asked for it! ( I'm not whining just saying. )
Bought truck two summers ago with high miles 245k but it seemed solid I got it cheap knowing it would need some work. I started with the obvious: Tires, Brakes, Fluids flush and re-fill, etc. and the T-case shift motor in the back of the truck previous owner said it was bad so I ordered one from rock auto meanwhile I let wife drive back and forth to work in 2WH to shake out the bugs. Lots and lots of bugs! Then of course we had our first snow before I put the encoder motor in and it came home on a tow truck I thought the T-case had slipped into N but after crawling around under the thing in the snow and checking it out the rear end took a powder!
Due to some health issues it was summer again before the thing came off of the jack stands new switch and encoder motor installed along with many other issues repaired But still no 4x4 ran diagnostics on it computer bad OK so I started looking into replacement let wife drive it in the mean time, so I drag my feet fall hits I ordered re-con control module from Auto zone while waiting for it we have first snow TB comes home on a tow truck.
Truck back on jack stands pulled encoder motor back off figuring the T-case is gone but no I think I lucked out since it was in N again the new encoder had shifted into N so I re-installed it replaced module hooked batt back up and it will not re-engage.
I want to make sure I'm not missing a super secret procedure required to get this thing re-engaged before borrowing the scan tool again.
Scanner info leads me to lean towards transfer case motor?
Update: encoder ring trouble code # co327
batt 12.2v
encoder gear invalid
encoder supply 3.37v
encoder rtn 0.02v
mode sw rtn 4.08v
ID# 19521
Update: encoder ring trouble code # co327
batt 12.2v
encoder gear invalid
encoder supply 3.37v
encoder rtn 0.02v
mode sw rtn 4.08v
ID# 19521
I need to add some info and a possible conclusion that even I think is out there.
While scanning deeper into the codes on my vehicle I picked up a generic code U1000 that I saw somewhere means a bad or corroded connection somewhere, and knowing my luck, it is somewhere in the harness.
Also while checking for trouble codes associated with the transmission it shows an issue with the back up lights and even stranger that the transmission is staying in 3rd. no matter the position of the shifter or the dash indicator, which is working correctly.
The other electrical issues I have are getting power to the fuel pump, scanner shows the fuel pump relay is on while cranking and off in the run position ( currently to get the thing to run I have to use a jumper ), rear hatch lock, air bag codes # B0026 driver front deployment open and B0044 driver front deployment loop 2 open.
I'm starting to wonder if these, instead of being completely separate problems may be connected as with broken or abraded wiring at a hidden pinch point?
Where I'm going with this is, does anyone know of a fairly common but hidden spot where pinched wiring or corrosion may exist and or is it even possible that one of the modules not correctly reading the transmission shift position may be blocking the transfer case from shifting?
While scanning deeper into the codes on my vehicle I picked up a generic code U1000 that I saw somewhere means a bad or corroded connection somewhere, and knowing my luck, it is somewhere in the harness.
Also while checking for trouble codes associated with the transmission it shows an issue with the back up lights and even stranger that the transmission is staying in 3rd. no matter the position of the shifter or the dash indicator, which is working correctly.
The other electrical issues I have are getting power to the fuel pump, scanner shows the fuel pump relay is on while cranking and off in the run position ( currently to get the thing to run I have to use a jumper ), rear hatch lock, air bag codes # B0026 driver front deployment open and B0044 driver front deployment loop 2 open.
I'm starting to wonder if these, instead of being completely separate problems may be connected as with broken or abraded wiring at a hidden pinch point?
Where I'm going with this is, does anyone know of a fairly common but hidden spot where pinched wiring or corrosion may exist and or is it even possible that one of the modules not correctly reading the transmission shift position may be blocking the transfer case from shifting?
marinegrunt
Member
- Oct 13, 2012
- 110
I just thought I comment where you said your transmission shows an issue with the backup lights. I wonder if it could be possible the p/n selector switch, harness, or wires have an issue. The light green wires from the p/n switch run to the backup lights and to the tcc/stoplamp switch whichs connects to the shift interlock solenoid. There's also a wires that run to the transfer case control module, fuse box, starter relay, and instrument cluster. If it's saying the tranny is staying in 3rd gear, there's an issue with your backup lights, and something isn't working with your 4wd maybe there's a possibility the p/n position switch is bad since it also links to the tccm. Maybe the fuel pump is running because it is somehow linked to the starter relay? I'd have to look at a wiring diagram to see if the fuel pump is linked to the starter relay but just wondering if it's part of this equation too. I don't think it is though.
I'm not sure what all years this effected but there was an issue with the p/n selector switch harness "welding" itself to the switch contacts. When someone tried to remove it they ended breaking the switch because it would not come off.
All of this is just a thought or at least worth looking at. I'll try and post a picture of the wiring diagram later so you can take a look at it. I believe the p/n selector switch is located on the left hand side of the tranny.
I'm not sure what all years this effected but there was an issue with the p/n selector switch harness "welding" itself to the switch contacts. When someone tried to remove it they ended breaking the switch because it would not come off.
All of this is just a thought or at least worth looking at. I'll try and post a picture of the wiring diagram later so you can take a look at it. I believe the p/n selector switch is located on the left hand side of the tranny.
marinegrunt
Member
- Oct 13, 2012
- 110
After looking at the diagram doesn't it make you think either the p/n selector switch or the wiring could be a possibility due to some of the codes and info you got?
If you have to, hold down the ctrl key and the + key and your screen will enlarge to get a closer view. Sorry the scan isn't that great.
If you have to, hold down the ctrl key and the + key and your screen will enlarge to get a closer view. Sorry the scan isn't that great.
