SWB to EXT brake question

[Daniel644]

From what I've read being an 03 I can take the caliper mounting brackets and rotors for an EXT/V8 trailblazer and use them on my regular 4.2 trailblazer, but what I couldn't find mentioned and is my question:

Will the EXT/V8 brakes clear the stock 16" wheels or is it required to go to 17" or larger?

 

[Tiggerr]

You need 17" or larger to clear. Caliper and pads remain the same. Just brackets and rotors are different.

 

[Daniel644]

You need 17" or larger to clear. Caliper and pads remain the same. Just brackets and rotors are different.

Thats what I needed to know, just means I've got to save up for the 22" SS replica wheels and tires first, which is no worries, I've got plenty of pad left on these brakes.

I had a feeling it would need bigger wheels which is why I asked.

 

[Tiggerr]

No problem, sounds like a good excuse for new wheels lol.

 

[Wooluf1952]

Don't forget about a spare.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Can use any spare on the rear since it wont change size. Just may be swapping front to rear on side of road if a front goes flat

 

[Tiggerr]

Can use any spare on the rear since it wont change size. Just may be swapping front to rear on side of road if a front goes flat

Is it just the fronts that have the bigger rotor and bracket? Thought the rear did as well.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

The rear is the same on all models of the platform. The only upgrade would be aftermarket.

 

[Tiggerr]

Oic. Ok. Thx.

 

[Daniel644]

Is it just the fronts that have the bigger rotor and bracket? Thought the rear did as well.

yup just the fronts and it is so CHEAP to do, if you have wheels that clear it would be straight up stupid not to go ahead and do it the next time you replace rotors.

look at it this way, if your doing new rotors and pads already the cost on the rotors isn't more then a few bucks (less then $5 each) if any more expensive to go to the larger rotor and the caliper brackets can be bought NEW for 20-25 bucks each so for like an extra 50 bucks tops if you buy new parts over the cost of a normal brake job you get the bigger brakes. the only thing holding anyone back is the need for 17's as a minimum wheel size, since so many shipped with 16's back in the day.

 

[Tiggerr]

I am going to do mine when I need brakes. I'll have to look though, I think all the Rainiers came with the bigger brakes regardless of engine. I remember seeing that somewhere. I'll have to check part numbers when the time comes.

 

[Daniel644]

I am going to do mine when I need brakes. I'll have to look though, I think all the Rainiers came with the bigger brakes regardless of engine. I remember seeing that somewhere. I'll have to check part numbers when the time comes.

I just looked at rockauto using the info on your post (04 Rainier 4.2) and it shows mostly the 305mm (12") rotors for the front replacements but it also does list the 325mm (12.8") rotor, I don't know what the "rules" are for the buicks, but it's easy to find out, just take a tape measure to your front rotor and see if it's 12"'s or 12.8"'s you may be able to do this without even removing the wheel.

 

[Mounce]

I just looked at rockauto using the info on your post (04 Rainier 4.2) and it shows mostly the 305mm (12") rotors for the front replacements but it also does list the 325mm (12.8") rotor, I don't know what the "rules" are for the buicks, but it's easy to find out, just take a tape measure to your front rotor and see if it's 12"'s or 12.8"'s you may be able to do this without even removing the wheel.

Same as the other 360's. If it's v8 or LWB then it has the larger front rotors. So, tigger has the small ones.

 

[Tiggerr]

Idk I hadn't checked into it yet. Be awhile before I need brakes yet. I know the caliper sits pretty close to my OEM wheels. Somewhere I thought I'd seen that the buicks all had the larger brakes. Maybe I read wrong or info was wrong. It'll have the bigger ones when the time comes, one way or the other. Stops pretty well though for 4400 lb truck tho. IMHO

 

[Daniel644]

Idk I hadn't checked into it yet. Be awhile before I need brakes yet. I know the caliper sits pretty close to my OEM wheels. Somewhere I thought I'd seen that the buicks all had the larger brakes. Maybe I read wrong or info was wrong. It'll have the bigger ones when the time comes, one way or the other. Stops pretty well though for 4400 lb truck tho. IMHO

Mine is fine most the time, but every once in a while it's like I have to step harder on the pedal to slow down, not enough to be an issue but just something I've noticed. FYI. other things that can be done to help is to switch out the rubber lines to braided lines and flush the brake fluid, i've never swapped lines but everyone that does swears by them on any vehicle.

 

[Tiggerr]

Mine is fine most the time, but every once in a while it's like I have to step harder on the pedal to slow down, not enough to be an issue but just something I've noticed. FYI. other things that can be done to help is to switch out the rubber lines to braided lines and flush the brake fluid, i've never swapped lines but everyone that does swears by them on any vehicle.

Definitely having SS hoses vs rubber helps a ton with pedal feel. The TBSS cast iron calipers would help some too. Less flex. Match that with a good set of pads, rotors and a well bled system and you've got some good brakes.

IMHO the cross drilled and/or slotted rotors have little effect on braking in real world driving. They do however look great! If you live in snow belt just be sure to coat them with some POR-15, or something on the hats and inside the fins. They do rust out quicker.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

In my real world experience...Drilled and Slotted have a huge impact on braking. I would never go back to regular rotors honestly. I had only front D/S with the SWB brakes and it was an upgrade and then going to the bigger brakes with new D/S it was even better.

 

[Daniel644]

In my real world experience...Drilled and Slotted have a huge impact on braking. I would never go back to regular rotors honestly. I had only front D/S with the SWB brakes and it was an upgrade and then going to the bigger brakes with new D/S it was even better.

I may want it just for the appearance factor once I get the big wheels (likely a year or so out from that depending on how long the tires on my stock wheels last for) but the one time I had them on a honda they where all kinds of crappy, shook like a warped rotor from day one and brake dust like crazy, but my brothers new car has them so I'll see how it brakes and think about it.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

I put new standard rotors, but no-name one from local parts store and they have felt warped from day one on my DD. I think it can be any rotor, but many on here have great success with D/S from BrakeMotive. If you do a search you will find lots of reviews around here.

 

[Paul Bell]

Drilled/sloted rotors used to be a popular topic over at LS1tech.

Drilled rotors were used years ago on racecars because it helped the pads outgas. However, this is no longer an issue because pad technology has advanced a lot over the years. People liked the looks so....

Drilling rotors reduce their weight therefore the amount of heat they can absorb from friction is reduced. They often crack around the holes. Drilled rotors also have less swept surface area, are weaker (because some material has been removed) and are more prone to warping. Drilled rotors do not improve braking in any way.

Some makers have almost eliminated cracking by casting in the holes or chamfering them after drilling-but it's still no improvement in braking.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=cracked%20drilled%20rotors&qs=n&form=QBIR&pq=cracked%20drilled%20rotors&sc=1-22&sp=-1&sk=

Slotted or dimpled rotors have less pitfalls then drilling but again, they offer no better braking performance.

Extreme disc brake applications such as aircraft and railway use blank rotors-never drilled or slotted.

I've used expensive two piece Wilwood rotors and cheap blank rotors on my Trans Am. I've found virtually no difference in braking action. I'll always use a name brand blank rotor such as Bendix, Raybestos or Centrix. Anything more expensive is, well, just more expensive. Today, most all are the same rotor from Asia or Canada anyway.

What does help is better pads. I use EBC Yellowstuff race pads. They're amazing. The hotter they get, the better they grip. When doing a long stop from speed, you'd need to start easing up on the brake pedal to maintain the same braking rate. I use them on every application they make them for-including my truck. The current offering of low dust ceramic pads seem to work well for a daily driver.