on the sway bar or the lower control arm?Mooseman said:Is that an ACDelco? If it is, that would be their "Advantage" line. Anyway, the washer should be behind the bar. I other words, before putting the stud through the bar, you would put the washer on first.
I guess you're talking about the axle? or are you talking about something else?davidevans89 said:another question so I am also replacing my struts all around, (all struts, ball joints, sway bar links, and tie rods) the passenger one as i removed it, the yoke obviously moves side to side but there is a little play forward and back around the bushing, if I do not replace this bushing will it cause uneven wear on my tires?
No the yoke at the base of the strut, pictured below and outlined in red.Mooseman said:I guess you're talking about the axle? or are you talking about something else?
Any idea on how to tell if you need to replace a control arm?Mooseman said:All it does is hold up the A-arm unless the movement is so great that it's like a bad strut. I haven't heard of anybody replacing that bushing. It's seems to be available at the dealer ($53 at GMPartsDirect) but I have no clue how it's done. If it really is bad, I'd replace the entire arm as it would come with a new balljoint and new bushings all around.
So getting an alignment and I won't have any worry?Mooseman said:Worn control arm bushings could do that by altering the alignment, mostly the camber and caster. For the yoke, might make noise more than anything.
I think the design idea was that the sway bar link does not turn with respect to the lower control arm, (the lower control arm simply pushes it up) hence no washer there. The turning movement/articulation is between the sway bar and the link and that end has the washer. That is my best guess having been under there removing the links a few times in the past 4 months.davidevans89 said:Yea I don't get why it came with only one washer, maybe I could use one of the old ones