Sway Bar link washer

Mooseman

Moderator
Is that an ACDelco? If it is, that would be their "Advantage" line. Anyway, the washer should be behind the bar. I other words, before putting the stud through the bar, you would put the washer on first.
 
OP
OP
D

davidevans89

Member
Mooseman said:
Is that an ACDelco? If it is, that would be their "Advantage" line. Anyway, the washer should be behind the bar. I other words, before putting the stud through the bar, you would put the washer on first.
on the sway bar or the lower control arm?
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
Sounds like the sway bar. Top part, not the lower control arm.
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure that I've ever even seen the washers mentioned and any replacements that I've looked at don't have one pictured so idk.
 
OP
OP
D

davidevans89

Member
another question so I am also replacing my struts all around, (all struts, ball joints, sway bar links, and tie rods) the passenger one as i removed it, the yoke obviously moves side to side but there is a little play forward and back around the bushing, if I do not replace this bushing will it cause uneven wear on my tires?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
I just had a look at them at RockAuto and these are the cheap advantage line, which oddly enough look exactly like Raybestos' service grade. And get this, for the Professional line, they don't have those aluminum bodied, zerkless and Allen wrench in the stud anymore. They have these nice ones with hex and blue boots, which exactly the same as Raybestos' Profvessional grade.

Do you all think that....no! ACDelco is made by Raybestos?

This is a pic of the ACDelco Professional.




Sorry, while I was writing this, you posted another question.



davidevans89 said:
another question so I am also replacing my struts all around, (all struts, ball joints, sway bar links, and tie rods) the passenger one as i removed it, the yoke obviously moves side to side but there is a little play forward and back around the bushing, if I do not replace this bushing will it cause uneven wear on my tires?
I guess you're talking about the axle? or are you talking about something else?
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
And in that picture there's only one washer.. Where does it go? I'm curious as well now.
 

gmac310

Well-Known Member
If memory serves, I think one part is thinner than the other. I can't remember if it's the sway bar or the control arm but the washer would go on the thinner part as a spacer before you put the end link on.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Not necessarily. I remember the back of the stud just pulling into the bar, which I think has softer metal. Anyway two is better.
 
OP
OP
D

davidevans89

Member
So I plan on taking one of the old washers and the new one and putting them both on, so thread the washer on the stud put it through the hole (sway bar/lower control) then thread the nut one?
Sway bar link/washer/vehicle part/then nut


Mooseman said:
I guess you're talking about the axle? or are you talking about something else?
No the yoke at the base of the strut, pictured below and outlined in red.
It wobbles forward and back (bumper to bumper side) like the rubber spacer may be worn, just wondering if the spacer is worn what would it cause? Premature tire wear?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
All it does is hold up the A-arm unless the movement is so great that it's like a bad strut. I haven't heard of anybody replacing that bushing. It's seems to be available at the dealer ($53 at GMPartsDirect) but I have no clue how it's done. If it really is bad, I'd replace the entire arm as it would come with a new balljoint and new bushings all around.
 
OP
OP
D

davidevans89

Member
Mooseman said:
All it does is hold up the A-arm unless the movement is so great that it's like a bad strut. I haven't heard of anybody replacing that bushing. It's seems to be available at the dealer ($53 at GMPartsDirect) but I have no clue how it's done. If it really is bad, I'd replace the entire arm as it would come with a new balljoint and new bushings all around.
Any idea on how to tell if you need to replace a control arm?

Also if I don't replace the bushings at the base of the yoke and control and would that cause uneven tire wear?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Worn control arm bushings could do that by altering the alignment, mostly the camber and caster. For the yoke, might make noise more than anything.
 

paul2005tb

Silver Supporter
I took my sway bar links off today. I notice an absolutely superior ride quality. Much softer ride, no comparision. Sway bars are for race cars.

I think I will not be putting them back on. I drive very slow and never take corners or exit ramps at speed.
 
OP
OP
D

davidevans89

Member
Mooseman said:
Worn control arm bushings could do that by altering the alignment, mostly the camber and caster. For the yoke, might make noise more than anything.
So getting an alignment and I won't have any worry?

This week I did all new ball joints, struts, sway bar links, driver tie rod, and rebuilt my front axle disconnect, getting new tires this week and an alignment. Not a lot of funds at this moment for more parts
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
Should be fine for an alignment. You'll know when they either do the alignment or refuse it/try to sell you new parts.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
They will check prior to the alignment if anything is worn/loose preventing proper alignment. Alignment should be done BEFORE getting the new tires just in case.
 

paul2005tb

Silver Supporter
davidevans89 said:
Yea I don't get why it came with only one washer, maybe I could use one of the old ones
I think the design idea was that the sway bar link does not turn with respect to the lower control arm, (the lower control arm simply pushes it up) hence no washer there. The turning movement/articulation is between the sway bar and the link and that end has the washer. That is my best guess having been under there removing the links a few times in the past 4 months.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
Old thread but I ran into this issue. I would have preferred washers top and bottom but ended up putting them on the control arm/frame mount. This was on the premise that I will source some washers and the easier of the nuts to remove (on the swaybar) will come off for the new washers.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
How much torque did you use? First couple of years, GM had a lower torque value and had problems with them getting loose and egging the holes. I had the same problem with my first TB. I wound up just using the breaker bar with red Loctite.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
I did not use Loctite but used as much torque as I could apply. I used a snipe or a large wrench on the end of the ratchet where I could. I will monitor and after a few hundred km will tear down and inspect. What ever coating they used, you needed some decent torque just to get the nut seated.
 

Camdo

Well-Known Member
  • The GM manual states for replacement of lower control arm bracket:
  • “Important: There is a washer between the stabilizer shaft link and the lower control arm made of hardened steel and has a felt inner liner. Only replace this washer with an identical washer, standard washers should not be used.
  • Interesting, the GM manual does not mention this washer in the section on stabilizer shaft link replacement.
  • The GM parts diagram shows no washer in the parts list.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
So it appears I got it right... time will tell. I mean the instructions that came were mighty detailed and helpful....

Thanks for the info!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
18,875
Messages
571,423
Members
11,551
Latest member
Advanced4
Top Bottom