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Capote

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Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
I got lucky, the EXT set that I bought was marked down to that price on a black Friday sale. Dunno why slotted only cost more than drilled AND slotted. Less labor and machine time to make em right? I mean come on! :tongue:
The EXT/5.3/6.0 larger version of the rotors I just bought were $185 for all 4 without brake pads. If I got pads and then the larger caliper brackets, I'd be in well over $300 if I had gone that route.
And the only thing I can think of as to why slotted only rotors across all brands are more expensive than D&S, is perhaps the "performance" over drilled and slotted, being they have more surface area and pads bite into them more. I can't think of any other reason really. They should be priced about the same in my opinion.
 
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Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
I really like my drilled n slotted, but not sure if i will do them again. I do get debris/mud/sand and that cant be good
You think you might try a slotted setup next go around? If I were setup for offroading, I'd also be concerned about debris when it came to the drilled aspect.
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
I worry about the drilled aspect with launching the boat in salt water. Our ramps suck and I regularly have to dunk the rear pretty far. Also on a long highway trip in a winter mix ice built up in the holes I believe because I pushed the brake pedal for a small panic stop and had no brakes for a couple of seconds then I felt the pedal like grab and then it was fine after that. But I hadn't touched the pedal for about 70 miles and it hasn't happened since so I really wonder if it was a fluke thing or something else. I can understand debris being an issue.
 
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Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
I worry about the drilled aspect with launching the boat in salt water. Our ramps suck and I regularly have to dunk the rear pretty far. Also on a long highway trip in a winter mix ice built up in the holes I believe because I pushed the brake pedal for a small panic stop and had no brakes for a couple of seconds then I felt the pedal like grab and then it was fine after that. But I hadn't touched the pedal for about 70 miles and it hasn't happened since so I really wonder if it was a fluke thing or something else. I can understand debris being an issue.
I've had a few scares myself the past month or so. A big reason why I decided to stop procrastinating and buy new rotors & pads despite my limited funds. My rotors are getting clogged in the drilled holes by brake dust, so that's part of the reason why I pretty much wanna go with slotted only at this point forward. Some people have their drilled & slotted rotors form hairline cracks that lead from one hole to another. Those didn't happen to me ever though with my Baer Rotors, these WERE top-notch when they were newer.
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
I've had a few scares myself the past month or so. A big reason why I decided to stop procrastinating and buy new rotors & pads despite my limited funds. My rotors are getting clogged in the drilled holes by brake dust, so that's part of the reason why I pretty much wanna go with slotted only at this point forward. Some people have their drilled & slotted rotors form hairline cracks that lead from one hole to another. Those didn't happen to me ever though with my Baer Rotors, these WERE top-notch when they were newer.
They've been good otherwise but that one thing scared me. I can lock the truck up with the boat in tow so they can't be that bad.
 
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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Never had brake dust build up like that in my rotors. Must have been some really dusty pads?
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Never had brake dust build up like that in my rotors. Must have been some really dusty pads?
They are wicked dusty for Ceramic pads, you'd think they were semi-metallic or metallic ones, smh. When I wash my truck I don't even bother to clean the insides of the wheels, just the face and up to an inch rear of the spokes. They create so much dust that coats the wheel on the inside. They don't make the outside that dirty oddly.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I would not do slotted or drilled if I was worried about debris and dust n such build up. I really think either both or none is what I would consider. I truly dont think slots only do anything after everything I read about brakes at this point. I can see the drilled helping, but as said with the debris...prolly wont go with em again.
 
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Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Both have negatives:
Drilled have less surface area and don't have as much structural integrity as Slotted. Slotted bite more into pads and wear them out much faster and they don't vent as well as Drilled.

In the end, nobody is driving their Daily Driver like they're doing an Autocross event or racing on some track everyday to work. So for a daily driver, it's the pads that ultimately make the difference for the most part, not the rotors.

Giddyup
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
I went with slotted purely for looks really. Wanted something other than stock, cuz stock is boring. Everybody gets D/S, and I didn't wanna get what everyone else has. So slotted it was. :yes:

As expected, no noticeable difference in performance, as long as it's not worse, is all I care about. I do sometimes get some squeaking at low speed braking, which is annoying. I still have my old pads, that have plenty of meat on them, so I may switch back to see if that helps.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I got a problem with wheels n tires. For some reason I just am not thrilled with my black chrome 18s on the TA. The chameleon paint and dark just not quite it for me.
0


I actually think I like the silver of the stock wheels better with my paint color when I had the snow tires, but they are 16 and got a twist in the spoke i never liked, so while great winter setup...not wanting to wrap them in summer rubber.
0


So i found a set of these in a 17 and trying to work a deal with the guy. But I think these will fit well and and have a classic 5 spoke muscle look. And if i get tired of the silver I can paint them copper or bronze or some shit since that thought wont leave my head either...
4615.jpg
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
That was kinda why I went with what I got. I like darker stuff, but didn't want too dark. The machined face on my wheels but with the black barrels really makes them pop. And hides dirt on the barrels better too lol.

I do like the black chrome ones you have though.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Thing is...I say I would sell the black chrome, but they will likely stick around and I will swap through wheels like I always do. You cant buy em anymore, but I just really like the 5 spokes. I guess it would be ok to have a snow setup, black chrome cruising/DD setup and the 5 spokes with some wide sticky weekend tires...cause RACECAR
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Curious how the light output pattern will be.
 
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Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Curious how the light output pattern will be.
Can't get an HID vs. LED comparison for you guys because one headlight is out due to the broken ballast and pin from it is lodged in the HID plugin. I watched a video comparing the OPT7 ones vs. the LASFIT I bought, they look almost 100% similar, but IMO the LASFIT has a cleaner cut-off and non-scattered pattern based on the comparison video.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Finally going to pick up the spare wheels for the car in a couple hours. Now I really need to start selling some stuffs. In the garage are

4- TA snow tires on wheels
5- TB 35s on wheels
4 - 35 MTRs
1 265 spare on wheel
1 285 spare on wheel
4 6x5.5 17x9
4 6x5 dual patterned 20s w no centers
1 35 new retread spare
2 17s yokohamas off van that are almost new
plus there are a few set of junk tires on wheels in the barn and in storage from the past vehicles. I think i got 2 caravan sets, f150 set, eclipse set, and 8 or 10 random loose tires.

Oh well....need to find a deal on some 245 45 17 for the car now
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Not like I need another project, but I ordered a few odds-n-ends for a project on the truck I hadn't gotten to yet. Might wait a bit until I wrap up another one, but at least I can start measuring things out for this one too.

Yay more stuff lol.

When am I going to find the time to work on all this... :bonk:
 
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littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
So on the poly bushings on the front end of the truck... they seem tp have made steering a lot more responsive and it doesn't wander on long sweeping turns anymore. (Used to have to move the wheel a bit around those to keep the truck centered in the lane now it just stays. Probably because they aren't worn.) Didn't seem to change ride quality but it drives a lot better now. Only problem is now you can feel the rear end slide around upon exit. Front goes straight and the rear snaps back just a little bit. A slight jerk if you will. Tire pressure may just be a bit low though. Now I have to replace the cabin lights to a more eye friendly color. The cool white hurts like hell at night
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Over bumps the rear may hop a bit because of the panhard bar causing a small sideways movement.

My goodies shipped.

I'm almost done with this stage of the kitchen, and there will be some time before I can start the bathroom, so during that time I'll try to get the truck stuff done.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Truck stuff is good stuff
 
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Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
A buddy/co-worker of mine convinced me to try a retrofit. He did one a few months ago for his '96 Civic Coupe that came out great, never doing one before. Sooo I guess once I feel comfortable spending money on a bake-able set of headlights, projectors, and shrouds i'm gonna go ahead and give it a shot. I've already had in my mind for a long time how i'd want them to look.
 
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Tiggerr

Member
Jun 6, 2013
1,324
Perrysburg, OH
:nono: This, my friend, is an oxymoron.

OEM has to be cut open (permaseal), aftermarket can be baked (butyl rubber).

I thought OEM could be baked as well but just was harder to do... required more heating...
hope the tyc OEM replacements can be baked..if I ever get around to doing my Rainier
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
I thought OEM could be baked as well but just was harder to do... required more heating...
hope the tyc OEM replacements can be baked..if I ever get around to doing my Rainier

My avalanche 3rd brake light was permasealed and I tried baking it. The housing ended up warping slightly before I gave up and just Dremeled the damn thing. Way less sealant used there, I don't think I'd have the patience to work and rework a headlight, especially with the cross bar section too.

From what I've read, the proper way to open permasealed headlights is to heat them to the point you can flex the lip to get one of these tools inside, around the rim of the main lens, and then work your way around the perimeter to cut the seal.

fetch


But if you guys can figure out a technique to bake open permasealed headlights, details on temperature, time, and perceived amount of force required to pull them apart would be invaluable. :yes:
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Just be aware not all aftermarket can be baked open.

Eagle Eyes (what I used) can be.
Depo also can be.

Crystal Vision (I think they're called) are permasealed like OEM.
 
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littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
I used depo. Retrofit was pretty easy but I used minis so there's that.
 

Tiggerr

Member
Jun 6, 2013
1,324
Perrysburg, OH
Unfortunately for me there really aren't many options.. only TYC and OEM... if I ever get to it I'll Dremel them open if necessary...
They're not too cheap eIther so I've always been leary of borking a set
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
:nono: This, my friend, is an oxymoron.

OEM has to be cut open (permaseal), aftermarket can be baked (butyl rubber).
I realized that after re-reading my post. I meant to say non-OEM.
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Got a new mod heading my way, will for sure change the face of the rig.
 
Mar 30, 2016
1,465
KSA
:nono: This, my friend, is an oxymoron.

OEM has to be cut open (permaseal), aftermarket can be baked (butyl rubber).

Would I be able to use a hand saw to cut em open. Don't have a dremel :cry:

Got a new mod heading my way, will for sure change the face of the rig.

I wonder what it is :undecided:
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Would I be able to use a hand saw to cut em open. Don't have a dremel :cry:


I wonder what it is :undecided:
Nope, you need to bake them. You'll destroy too much using a Dremel and a saw would never work.

Well it'd be accompanied by another unique mod and a color change from my green LED's if I can track down Super Yellow LED strips, which are like impossible to find. You can find Super Yellow LED's, but rarely are the LED strips claiming to be are actually Yellow and are more Amber in color, which is NOT what I need.
 
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Mar 30, 2016
1,465
KSA
Nope, you need to bake them. You'll destroy too much using a Dremel and a saw would never work.

Well it'd be accompanied by another unique mod and a color change from my green LED's if I can track down Super Yellow LED strips, which are like impossible to find. You can find Super Yellow LED's, but rarely are the LED strips claiming to be are actually Yellow and are more Amber in color, which is NOT what I need.

I'm confused now! Maybe when I do mine by the end of the month, hopefully I'll probably bake them and try to pry it loose. :stars:

Interesting to see the end product. :yes:

On a side note can't find any fuse taps! :ugh: How would I wire up the led drls I'm planning for the retrofit :helpme:
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Factory cannot be baked. Don't bother trying. Factory have to be dremeled open. Yes, it can destroy them if you're not careful. Hand saw won't work as you can't get it in the places you'd need to.
 
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Mar 30, 2016
1,465
KSA
Factory cannot be baked. Don't bother trying. Factory have to be dremeled open. Yes, it can destroy them if you're not careful. Hand saw won't work as you can't get it in the places you'd need to.

Thanks for the clear up. This could be an issue as maybe a dremel might drive the cost of this mod up
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
I'm confused now! Maybe when I do mine by the end of the month, hopefully I'll probably bake them and try to pry it loose. :stars:

Interesting to see the end product. :yes:

On a side note can't find any fuse taps! :ugh: How would I wire up the led drls I'm planning for the retrofit :helpme:
You need to buy a set of DEPO brand Headlights to bake open.
Just order some off Ebay or Amazon.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
@$ Khalid ! 9130 You may look into lesser known brands of rotary tool, if it's something you're not going to use very often. That could help lower potential costs you're looking at. Maybe try browsing some sites like aliexpress.com :twocents:

Got a new mod heading my way, will for sure change the face of the rig.

Dude, if you put those freaking eyelash gimmicks on your truck, you'll be banned from the forum!! :crackup: :dielaugh:

car-eyelashes-on-land-rover-discovery-5.jpg
 

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