Stuck rack bolts

ts684

Original poster
Member
May 29, 2013
81
HELP! 2009 Envoy SWB. Last st insp said rack was leaking and I needed to have fixed. Picked up a rack and after taking everything off EXCEPT the rack, it looks like it is the high pressure hose that is leaking. My problem is that the two bolts that hold the rack in place are absolutely stuck! Even jacked as high as I can get, not much room for a breaker bar. Impact wrench, that has not failed me elsewhere doesn't do the job. Sprayed last night with Blaster penetrating oil, hope is works overnight. Any other ideas? May put back together and take to local shop.

Also, if I do get the bolts loose, do I have to remove both the upper and lower intermediate shaft pinch bolts? Not a lot of room in there!
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
What are you using to remove the nut on the front side next to the axles? I slip in a spark plug socket and use the hex end with a wrench to hold that nut and use an impact on the bolt from the rear. Works like a charm without having to pull the axles. If it's really that rusted and won't budge, you might have to cut or grind off the bolt heads and get new ones. I've never had to do that as they have always come off for me, even on junkers in the yard.
 

ts684

Original poster
Member
May 29, 2013
81
The problem is the bolt doesn't budge at all! Tried the sparkplug socket with a wrench, then just for fun removed it, and hit the bolt with the impact wrench again. No movement! Might try a heat gun but realistically I'm not going to try to cut/burn it off. Any thought on intermediate shaft pinch bolts?

At this point, since I have all the parts, I'm hoping I can take to a local shop and they will do for labor.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Oh so the nut does come off. It's the bolt itself that's seized in the rack mount. Yeah, cutting the bolt head off won't help with that. May actually make it worse. Have you tried with a breaker bar? Maybe a shop with a high torque impact can get it out. Hitting it with a torch may destroy the rubber mount in the rack that the bolt passes through.
Any thought on intermediate shaft pinch bolts?
What about them? There's the one at the rack that's pretty easy except for the rubber boot that keeps getting in the way.

So what are you trying to do exactly? Replace the rack or some other part?
 

ts684

Original poster
Member
May 29, 2013
81
Didn't make that clear. I removed the socket and wrench holding it from the back side of the bolt. Nothing moves, whether the nut is being held or not.

Trying to replace rack and fluid lines. Supposedly the rack was leaking, but I suspect it was the high pressure line at a crimp.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Ah so the nut too. I'd put a torch to that nut. Could get it off before the rubber rack mount gets melted. Anyway, if you take it to a shop, either they'll do that or put a large impact on it. They might remove the axles to get to them more easily, which will add to the bill.
 

coolride

Member
Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
Replace the lines first. It's a big enough job. Through the whole process you can keep adding PB Blast to those stuck bolts. I've soaked stuck bolts, every day or two, for a couple of weeks, if I had the time.

You could spray things down with brake cleaner, then go for a short drive. Then have another look and try to determine exactly where it's leaking.
 
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coolride

Member
Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
So, the bolts should spin freely in a non-threaded hole? I've never tried to get my rack off.

I hope you have that TB very stable on multiple jack stands. Working a stuck bolt could rock the vehicle side to side, and it could fall off a jack. Be careful.

The leg has a lot more power than the arm (right?) I might lie on my side and push the ratchet handle with my foot. That bolt should break free.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
So, the bolts should spin freely in a non-threaded hole?
Yep. Once the nut is loosened/removed, the bolt spins freely, kinda like A-arm bolts. Same principle with the bushing.
 

ts684

Original poster
Member
May 29, 2013
81
Just wondering. What size/grade are those bolts/nuts. Wolud consider replacing. Also, at this point, considering taking to local shop to have done. After wrestling with those bolts for a couple of hours, at 67, I feel beat up.

Find it interesting that these bolts are only torqued to 81lb/ft. The lower A-arm bolts, torqued to 177lb/ft, were no problem.
 

coolride

Member
Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
Just wondering. What size/grade are those bolts/nuts. Wolud consider replacing. Also, at this point, considering taking to local shop to have done. After wrestling with those bolts for a couple of hours, at 67, I feel beat up.

Find it interesting that these bolts are only torqued to 81lb/ft. The lower A-arm bolts, torqued to 177lb/ft, were no problem.
Well take your time. Unless you need this rig on the road right away. My Trailblazer will sit for months while I'm busy with other things. I suggested earlier, maybe spray it down with brake cleaner then go for a short drive. Step 1: Determine exactly where it's leaking. You'll need a flashlight.
 

aaserv

Member
Dec 1, 2019
408
N of Baton Rouge, La.
On the shaft bolts dont make the same mistake I did. You only need to remove the lower/closest to the rack bolt. But remove it completely from the hole. Its not really a pinch bolt , the shaft is notched for the bolt to pass thru and that is how it holds it. Once you remove the bolt from the hole the entire shaft can be pushed upwards as its a telescoping shaft. Its greased and will move pretty easily. Might have tapped it once or twice with a rubber mallet but once its moving it goes up and down easily. I didnt know all that and took both bolts out THEN tried reconnecting it at the same time i installed the new rack. Fought that SOB for like 10 days trying everything known to man and then when I realized the shaft could be pushed upwards I felt like the biggest idiot my parents always said I was...lol It is a little hard fighting that rubber boot but it doesnt do a lot anyway so I didnt worry about damaging it or anything just shoved it around as needed.
 

ts684

Original poster
Member
May 29, 2013
81
As for the two rack mounting bolts, I wonder about replacements just in case they break or have to be burned off. Are they a common size, or will it take 2 weeks to get. The Envoy is my daily driver and I live in NE Pa. where it snows. Other ride is my mid-life crisis car, a "give me a ticket officer" Race Red 2019 Mustang GT. Al season tires and I REALLY don't want to try to drive it in the snow.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Dealer may not have these in stock so could take a few days, if they're still available. I'm sure the shop could source equivalent nuts and bolts from a fastener supply house.
 

aaserv

Member
Dec 1, 2019
408
N of Baton Rouge, La.
Pretty sure I can get you a set of bolts for the rack on a days notice. I went to the u-pull last week and they had several with the motors out so I could easily get to the bolts and nuts from the top. With the distance and holidays I kinda doubt you would get them before a week or so but they are available easily. If I can Ill stop by tomorrow and try to pull a set. No rust down here so should come right out. Sometimes when i just get a few bolts they dont even charge me. If you want them shoot me a PM and Ill get them out asap.
 
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