Steering wheel position sensor

[BrianF]

I have had a few lingering issues with my 06 TB LT. History: Last year I buggered one wheel speed sensor while doing some other work, ie the driver side front diff seal. Once I completed that job the abs, tc, stabilitrak lights were all on. I had GM check the chassis codes and of course the wheel speed sensor was not providing a signal but the steering wheel position sensor was sending a code.
I recently replaced the front hubs with oem units as the bearings were howling aside from the sensor issue. They run great and got rid of all the idiot lights. I thought this was odd as I never touched the swps. Fast forward a few days the stabilitrak and fix tc idiot lights appeared while driving. I shut the vehicle off and restarted and they were out. They pop on sporadically but easily are reset.

Now to the question: What can be done with these sensors? I am not opposed to swapping in a new one but like to salvage what I can. is there contacts that corrode? Loose connections to check? In a few days I will have it in a warm shop to maybe do some digging. Any tips or tricks when ripping these out?

thanks

 

[IllogicTC]

Steering wheel position sensors can be tricky to swap out. Do you have the manuals we provide here for free? It's a pretty involved process altogether, but not out of the realm of a competent DIYer with proper equipment.

 

[DAlastDON]

Steering wheel position sensors can be tricky to swap out. Do you have the manuals we provide here for free? It's a pretty involved process altogether, but not out of the realm of a competent DIYer with proper equipment.

I'm about to check out the service manual now. Figured it was drop the lower steering column cover and remove the intermediate shaft. Then unbolt the sensor and slide it out. Done in an hour i figured. Will get it done this weekend if i do not get called out too much. Chances go up if it rains and that is the forecast for the start of this weekend

 

[coolasice]

The sensor is very simple to swap out, i did it in a matter of 30-45mins. Just be sure to secure the steering wheel to keep it from turning (make sure wheels are straight first). Also be sure to use AC Delco sensors, don't buy the dorman, they are known for early failure. The actual work is pretty simple, secure steering wheel, remove lower dash cover, unplug sensor, remove screw from intermediate shaft and disconnect it, remove retaining bolts from the sensor plate, remove sensor and reverse process. (make sure to remove sensor lock pin after you reconnect the intermediate shaft).

 

[DAlastDON]

Looks almost word for word from what i read in the service manual on the procedure.

Sadly i got the doorman sensor, Rock auto did not have one listed for the AC Delco. Was able to get a AC Delco wheel speed sensor and theromstat though. Maybe ill get lucky with the doorman steering wheel position sensor and it lasts forever.

To secure the steering wheel i was either going to try and sick something in the hole in the bottom of the steering column or bungee cord or, my favorite, duct tape the shit out of it.

 

[Mooseman]

This is good info as I will probably be doing this eventually as I get a Service Stabilitrak message every once in a while.

 

[coolasice]

Looks almost word for word from what i read in the service manual on the procedure.

Sadly i got the doorman sensor, Rock auto did not have one listed for the AC Delco. Was able to get a AC Delco wheel speed sensor and theromstat though. Maybe ill get lucky with the doorman steering wheel position sensor and it lasts forever.

To secure the steering wheel i was either going to try and sick something in the hole in the bottom of the steering column or bungee cord or, my favorite, duct tape the shit out of it.

Seatbelt through the steering wheel is what I use. Just have to keep it from turning.

 

[DAlastDON]

Ran into some rain on the interstate and hydroplaned while going around a curve that had a dip that had collected water. Did a 720. Shifted into neutral immediately. Spun the first 540 degrees and was rolling straight backwards staring at the headlights that were supposed to be behind me. Still moving at about forty mph. Hit the brakes hard and spun around the correct direction. I have spun cars out in the past and had my asshole pucker up but being in a high profile vehicle, my asshole is still sealed up. I was very close to rolling over. I do not think ill be able to drop the browns at the super bowl come tomorrow morning when i get up and change the SWPS, passenger wheel speed sensor, and thermostat.

When i hit the brakes hard to break traction on the front wheels, the ABS did not actuate. Did not have any service lights or messages on the DIC at the time before the incident but did afterwards. Not that i expected the impaired systems to work. During the summer before any problems i fooled around on gravel observing how the stabilitrak functioned. Stabilitrak denied every move i tried to lose traction for very long and corrected the vehicles' trajectory. When functional i feel stabilitrak would save an inexperienced drivers' life. If impaired, get the system serviced as soon as possible. Will be glad to get mine done tomorrow if i do not get called into work.

 

[DAlastDON]

Replaced the SWPS today when i got home from work. Secured the steering wheel with two ratchet straps after the fail with the duct tape. Took ten minutes to remove the three lower dash pieces to reveal the steering shaft. Five minutes to get the intermediate shaft and SWPS retainer off. Then about an hour to remove the SWPS from its resting point. Nothing to grab a hold of. Pried on it with screw drivers and it would not budge. Then i stuck a small allen wrench through the plastic piece the SWPS is housed in to push on it from behind while i pulled from the other side. Out in two minutes with the allen wrench. Knowing where all the screws are and how to access them, and the allen wrench trick if the SWPS is stuck, it is a 25-30 minute job. If the doorman fails then i can replace it quick.

Cleared all the codes and burned some gas. No new pending codes after forty miles.

 

[BrianF]

Thanks for the input guys. I had found the install instructions. Thanks for the tips on removing the sensor, sounds like fun.... I plan on getting a new one but will wait some time now. Its been quite some time since it last threw a code and runs great now. I am thinking it was finicky in the cold and since its actually quite nice here in Sask lately there has been no issues.

 

[LikeEnvoy]

My 2007 Envoy has been lighting both the Service Stabilitrak and Service Traction Control lamps "intermittently" every winter for a few years now. It used to do it just once in a while but now it started doing it every trip. Restarting the engine clears it each time.
I just reversed into my driveway and it happened as I turned the steering to full right lock so I tested it- restarting a few times and turning back to full right. YES....every time I turn the steering wheel to full right lock they come on! All other positions are OK.
I can reproduce the fault every time now by turning to full right lock.
Presumably the steering wheel position sensor has been breaking down at that position and has finally gone. Of course it was difficult to track down before because I was never looking at the panel when reversing/parking etc.

I tried downloading the service manuals for the 2007 but I can't find a description of replacing the SWPS in any of them.
From the Isuzu manuals it looks like the sensor is on the bottom end of the main/upper steering column section; it seems you have to remove the shaft that runs from this to the floor so you can remove the sensor. Correct?
The Isuzu manual has underlined links to necessary procedures fort his job but annoyingly these links do not work and I cannot find these sections when searching the document.

Has anyone written instructions for this job or does anyone know where the missing information is from the Isuzu (or even the Envoy/Trailblazer) manuals??

 

[Mooseman]

It might not be the SWPS. I've been getting the code intermittently like you for the SWPS but only the Service Stabilitrak message has been coming on, nothing about traction control. By any chance is the ABS light on? If so, it's likely something related to that as the Stabilitrak and Traction Control uses the ABS sensors and system together. You have to read the codes to be sure. Other than getting it scanned at the stealer (uh, I mean dealer) or another shop with a high end scanner, you could buy an ELM 327 Bluetooth adapter and buy the Car Gauge Pro app. It's the only one that can scan all codes.

As for instructions, check the 2006. Probably the same instructions. I have AllData and GM SI at home. If you're still having problems, I'll see if I can find them.

 

[LikeEnvoy]

Thanks Mooseman. Sorry for not getting back here sooner. I was waiting for an email notification of a new post but never got one. I will borrow a code-checker and turn the wheel to the right lock again to make the lamps come on.
It just seems to make sense to me that if the lights only come on when the wheel is full right it would be a worn contact at that position of the sensor.

By the way- wrong part of forum, but I only just heard that GM is offering 100% coverage now for the fuel sensor issue. Special Coverage Adjustment 10054E. I searched these forums and I see it has bee noted there already. I took my Envoy in today.

 

[LikeEnvoy]

... I've been getting the code intermittently like you for the SWPS but only the Service Stabilitrak message has been coming on, nothing about traction control. By any chance is the ABS light on? If so, it's likely something related to that as the Stabilitrak and Traction Control uses the ABS sensors and system together.

I also noticed this thread: http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/1330-service-stabilitrak/
which is about the Service Stabilitrak lamps coming on - which can happen with a faulty SWPS.
I haven't been able to borrow a code checker yet but there could be a misunderstanding of the lights I see. I said it was the "Service Stabilitrak and Service Traction Control lamps" but what actually illuminates when I turn the wheel to the full right is this:

 

[dmanns67]

I also noticed this thread: http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/1330-service-stabilitrak/
which is about the Service Stabilitrak lamps coming on - which can happen with a faulty SWPS.
I haven't been able to borrow a code checker yet but there could be a misunderstanding of the lights I see. I said it was the "Service Stabilitrak and Service Traction Control lamps" but what actually illuminates when I turn the wheel to the full right is this:

I have had the same issue for a while now, but has gotten worse this winter. Everytime I back out of my driveway and turn the wheel to the right, then begin to drive forward, "Stabilitrak Active" will flash on my DIC. A few times when turning right, while driving forward, I will get the "Service Stabilitrak" on the DIC.

The service light will clear after the TB is shutoff and restarted. The annoying part is that I lose my 4wd capabilities while the Service Stabilitrak light is on. Like you mentioned, it happens during the winter months.

When you have the Service Stabilitrak light on you can swing by a shop and have them read the code to make sure the issue is the SWPS. I felt confident in all my research that was my issue due to the symptoms.

I just bought my genuine GM steering wheel position sensor from Amazon.com for $95 with free shipping. The stealership wanted $160. Also, I read a lot of bad reviews on the Dorman steering wheel position sensor due to the high failure rate. Figured I would stick with the genuine GM part. Surprisingly, AC Delco does not make the sensor.

 

[Mooseman]

Surprisingly, it's cheaper at my dealer than Amazon.ca. $126.81 vs. $143.91. It also goes by different numbers. #19150081, 26104070, 26109034

Mine acts kinda strange. The service Stabilitrak message and light come on either right away after starting or shortly after turning the wheel but sometimes not at all. Cold seems to affect it as the colder it is, the more possibility it will go. And here's the kicker; it still works. If the truck drifts, it kicks in and I get the Stabilitrak active message and then goes back to service Stabilitrak. And my AWD is not affected neither. I did pull the code and it is the SWPS.

 

[Sib]

Surprisingly, it's cheaper at my dealer than Amazon.ca. $126.81 vs. $143.91. It also goes by different numbers. #19150081, 26104070, 26109034

Mine acts kinda strange. The service Stabilitrak message and light come on either right away after starting or shortly after turning the wheel but sometimes not at all. Cold seems to affect it as the colder it is, the more possibility it will go. And here's the kicker; it still works. If the truck drifts, it kicks in and I get the Stabilitrak active message and then goes back to service Stabilitrak. And my AWD is not affected neither. I did pull the code and it is the SWPS.

Mine does the same. Gives the service light but also works. Haven't tried to switch to 4wd when the service light comes on though. Usually I switched to 4wd before I start moving and it doesn't come on then.

Something I will replace when the weather gets a little warmer. Not exactly an emergency right now.

 

[coolasice]

Surprisingly, it's cheaper at my dealer than Amazon.ca. $126.81 vs. $143.91. It also goes by different numbers. #19150081, 26104070, 26109034

Mine acts kinda strange. The service Stabilitrak message and light come on either right away after starting or shortly after turning the wheel but sometimes not at all. Cold seems to affect it as the colder it is, the more possibility it will go. And here's the kicker; it still works. If the truck drifts, it kicks in and I get the Stabilitrak active message and then goes back to service Stabilitrak. And my AWD is not affected neither. I did pull the code and it is the SWPS.

}

i got mine on ebay for $96

 

[dmanns67]

Surprisingly, it's cheaper at my dealer than Amazon.ca. $126.81 vs. $143.91. It also goes by different numbers. #19150081, 26104070, 26109034

Mine acts kinda strange. The service Stabilitrak message and light come on either right away after starting or shortly after turning the wheel but sometimes not at all. Cold seems to affect it as the colder it is, the more possibility it will go. And here's the kicker; it still works. If the truck drifts, it kicks in and I get the Stabilitrak active message and then goes back to service Stabilitrak. And my AWD is not affected neither. I did pull the code and it is the SWPS.

I ended up buying 19150081. When I called my stealership, they initially told me it was part# 19150082 End up being a coil. They musy hire anyone to work the parts department

Mine does the same. Gives the service light but also works. Haven't tried to switch to 4wd when the service light comes on though. Usually I switched to 4wd before I start moving and it doesn't come on then.

Something I will replace when the weather gets a little warmer. Not exactly an emergency right now.

On mine when the Service Stabilitrak light is on, all of the lights go out on the 4wd selector switch. You can move the selector and nothing happens.

 

[Sib]

On mine when the Service Stabilitrak light is on, all of the lights go out on the 4wd selector switch. You can move the selector and nothing happens.

TBH I never have looked at the switch when the stabilitrak light comes on. I just got to work and with it being so cold I'm sure it'll come on when I head home tonight around 9:30. I'll check to see if my 4wd switch lights are off as well.

 

[LikeEnvoy]

I've been away from here for a while. Bought an ELM327 bluetooth reader from interfuse but it doesn't work. It finds the adapter but fails when it tries to reach the ECU! Interfuse sent another but that doesn't work either. They said it worked for them on an Android device and a Mazda car. I've tried my Windows tablet and a laptop plus an Android tablet and with Easy OBDII and with Scan Master ELM Demo. So a waste of money and I'm still unable to read the codes. Clearly their adapters don't work.

I think I'll just get a new sensor and replace it anyway because its nearly August and I want it fixed before winter.

 

[Mooseman]

There are only a few components to the Stabilitrak system, which works in conjunction withthe ABS and PCM. I would be pretty confident that if you are only getting the Service Stabilitrak message and lights that it's the SWPS sensor. If you would have also had an ABS light come on at the same time, then I would have suspected a wheel speed sensor.

For your ELM327, sounds like this brand is a lemon. I bought a cheap on from eBay and it works with Torque and Car Gauge Pro without any issues at all.

Yeah, you should be getting your first snowfall in a couple of weeks

 

[LikeEnvoy]

By the way...the new steering wheel position sensor did it. No trouble since I fitted it.
( I'm a bit late completing my story but you know summer is too busy trying to fit everything in before the next winter)

 

[dkvasnicka]

How does the SWPS (or its failure and its relationship to Stabilitrak) affect AWD?

I have the same condition (SERVICE STABILITRAK and the triangle icon illuminated, mostly after turning my steering wheel) and today I've noticed that when I am in a situation that requires AWD and the stabilitrak light is on, the Service AWD light comes on too. When I floored it on snow and the stabilitrak light was off the truck kinda struggled for traction, the stabilitrak active message was coming on intermittently but no Service AWD light (I hope it wasn't just because the truck thought it didn't need AWD).
Does AWD need the SWPS data? Or is it just another coincidence and is my AWD failing?

 

[Mooseman]

The SWPS had nothing to do with AWD. When I was driving it last winter, I had intermittent issues with the SWPS and it would light the stabilitrak but AWD worked normally. Maybe it's one if the speed sensors on the transfer case.

 

[dkvasnicka]

When I had the car up in the air in the summer and shifted to D the front wheels engaged almost immediately. So it must have died since then or I don't know It would help if I knew how big the difference in the shafts speeds has to be (and for how long) in order for awd to kick in.

 

[Mooseman]

Or the TC is marginal and can only turn the front wheels without a load.

 

[dkvasnicka]

Well, with the AWD light going on while the stabilitrak was on, that must have been a crazy coincidence... because I got lucky today and on my way home the SWPS worked correctly, no light. So I decided to test AWD with no lights on and I abused the shit out of the truck, in all three settings: traction ctrl on & stabilitrak on, TC off, both TC & stabilitrak off. I live in a place where road salt is illegal (fortunately; near a national park), so we have roads and parking lots covered with snow. I was flooring the truck multiple times, each time losing loads of traction and stabilitrak light blinking intermitently like crazy (when it was on), but no AWD light, not even for a sec... I felt like after flooring it the truck was struggling and then got kind of propelled forward... but I don't know whether that was rear wheels finally getting some traction or AWD working. I didn't havy anyone to watch me from outside.
So I have som crazy AWD malfunction that manifests itself by illuminating AWD light when SWPS fails and illuminating nothing when it works? I know AWD can fail without setting any codes or lights, so I can't just let it go

Oh, and sorry for hijacking the thread... a little

 

[dkvasnicka]

Took it to a shop today. Apart from the AWD stuff I also got a confirmation that the stabilitrak message really is related to the SWPS. I also noticed that sabilitrak works anyway. Won't be losing my sleep over this, will take care of it in spring/summer.

 

[JerryIrons]

Replaced the SWPS today when i got home from work. Secured the steering wheel with two ratchet straps after the fail with the duct tape. Took ten minutes to remove the three lower dash pieces to reveal the steering shaft. Five minutes to get the intermediate shaft and SWPS retainer off. Then about an hour to remove the SWPS from its resting point. Nothing to grab a hold of. Pried on it with screw drivers and it would not budge. Then i stuck a small allen wrench through the plastic piece the SWPS is housed in to push on it from behind while i pulled from the other side. Out in two minutes with the allen wrench. Knowing where all the screws are and how to access them, and the allen wrench trick if the SWPS is stuck, it is a 25-30 minute job. If the doorman fails then i can replace it quick.

Cleared all the codes and burned some gas. No new pending codes after forty miles.

I know this is a reply to a 7 year old post, but just wanted to say thanks to DAlastDon for his tip about the allen wrench. I just swapped out my steering wheel position sensor, and ran into the same thing, the original one in there would not budge. Thought to myself, I bet someone ran into this already and lo and behold here it is. You saved me some time and frustration so thank you!!

Basically what I did was put the small end of the allen wrench under the "neck" of the sensor, The neck is between where the connector plugs in and the circle of the sensor. Use it as a lever to lift it out while your other hand pulls it out. The allen wrench has to be small enough to fit in there, but big enough to not snap, because mine took a bit of force. Then I switched to a bigger allen wrench once the smaller one was out of "lever" power.

 

[flyrule]

I know this is a reply to a 7 year old post, but just wanted to say thanks to DAlastDon for his tip about the allen wrench. I just swapped out my steering wheel position sensor, and ran into the same thing, the original one in there would not budge. Thought to myself, I bet someone ran into this already and lo and behold here it is. You saved me some time and frustration so thank you!!

Basically what I did was put the small end of the allen wrench under the "neck" of the sensor, The neck is between where the connector plugs in and the circle of the sensor. Use it as a lever to lift it out while your other hand pulls it out. The allen wrench has to be small enough to fit in there, but big enough to not snap, because mine took a bit of force. Then I switched to a bigger allen wrench once the smaller one was out of "lever" power.

Hey Jerry I'm also trying to replace my sensor 7 years later and I'm having a super hard time getting the sensor back on. Getting the old one off was also a hassle with how tight the fit is but it eventually came off. It seems even tighter getting it back on so I've been struggling for a while with it. Do you have any tips with getting it back on?

 

[JerryIrons]

Mine went on fairly easily, just a lot of jiggling and it went down, I just used my hand no tools. You didn't pull the spring pin out yet did you?

 

[flyrule]

Mine went on fairly easily, just a lot of jiggling and it went down, I just used my hand no tools. You didn't pull the spring pin out yet did you?

It fell out while I was jiggling.. Am I screwed?

 

[JerryIrons]

It fell out while I was jiggling.. Am I screwed?

I don't know. It can come out with no spring pin so one would think it can go on, just going to be harder I guess?

 

[LikeEnvoy]

My Sensor failed again, so the last replacement lasted 5 or 6 years.
Replaced it again and the warning lights have gone away again.

 

[LikeEnvoy]

Maybe the new replacements are much better. I opened up the original old one, years ago, and it was quite simple- just a carbon resistance track with worn metal brush ("fingers").
The current 'old one' I just opened up is way different. It has both a carbon resistance track (probably for just position) plus an optical photo-detector device with a ring that is perforated with lots of holes, so it can probably detect rate of turning as well. (It still failed though.)


By the way, for you other guys, this new one was much stiffer to push on than the old one, as I remember.