Steering rack or pump? Which is it...

S13Hitman

Original poster
Member
Oct 20, 2017
80
Hilton Head
Ok the power steering is whinnying really loud. The reservoir is full and there's no leaks. Everything seems to be intact but there's obviously a problem.

I have a base model 2002. If I need a steering rack do I order the one with 16mm tie rods or 14mm?

Also, how can I be sure it's my steering rack like I think it is?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
It's most likely the pump. Rack either works or it doesn't or usually just leaks.

For reference, the 14mm vs 16mm refers to the size of the outer tie-rod that screws into the inner tie-rod in the rack. All have since been updated to 16mm and recommend going to those.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
And a trick before replacing the pump, flush the system using the old pump with new fluid so your new pump won't see any of the old fluid.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
when was the fluid last changed? Get a syringe and draw out some fluid. Its likely very black if it has not been changed in a while. Try flushing the system first to see if things improve and go from there. Of course, the "remove the belt" test will give you some idea of the noise location (possibly) plus then allow you to manually spin the pump and feel what might be up.
 

pell

Member
Jun 5, 2017
88
Pelham, NH
Are you sure it is the power steering pump? I was leaking fluid from the cooler and the rack. Thought I killed the pump also. My trailblazer was squealing like crazy, found out the hard way it was the "high quality" water pump from China that finally ceased. The pump was only 3 months old.
I replaced the cooler and rack my power steering pump in still working fine.
 

Brian K

Member
Apr 5, 2012
32
I thought my PS pump was screeching. I put my hand on it and could feel the grinding so I replaced it. Turned out it was the serpentine idler tensioner pulley/bearing just below - the bearing was very rough. The new PS pump works fine and wasn't hard to replace - except you will need to buy a puller removal and installation kit. Cheap on Amazon. If you are at all handy, take the tensioner off and push the old bearing out. The bearing is pretty standard and you can get one anywhere - like Amazon - Sorry I forget the bearing PN. something like a 6303 or 6302 and the bearing is much cheaper than the idler assembly.
As others have said, take the belt off and turn things by hand until you feel something rougher than it should be.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Or do what I did, I got a used low miles pump for cheap that came with a pulley so I didn't have to screw with it lol.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
If you do get a rebuilt, get an ACDelco. I got a Cardone once and it moaned from the get go. ACDelco lasted till I scrapped 'er and even kept it as a spare.
 
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S13Hitman

Original poster
Member
Oct 20, 2017
80
Hilton Head
If you do get a rebuilt, get an ACDelco. I got a Cardone once and it moaned from the get-go. ACDelco lasted till I scrapped 'er and even kept it as a spare.
I was going to get an ACDelco but then the virus crap came upon us. I decided to save some money and go to the junkyard since I needed a radiator too. Mine has a hairline fracture that only leaks every now and then. I actually scored at the junkyard and found a TB that was T-boned and the radiator looked like it had been recently replaced. The TB was in really good shape overall (except it was totaled) and I took a gamble that the parts were still in good shape.

That leads me to yesterday, replaced the pump and I still have the screeching. Obviously I need to take the belt off and investigate further. I guess I have a back-up pump for $25 so I'm not too upset.

Working on it today but not messing with the power steering, getting the radiator and heater core connector replaced. Then I'll dive back into the steering issue or whatever the noise is. I really appreciate the comment above, I'll look at those areas to see if that's my problem.
 

S13Hitman

Original poster
Member
Oct 20, 2017
80
Hilton Head
Oh, BTW. I did replace the tensioner and pulley 2 months ago when I did the water pump and harmonic balancer. All parts were from rock auto. There's a high chance one of the new parts could be my issue.
 

aaserv

Member
Dec 1, 2019
408
N of Baton Rouge, La.
Lucky to get a radiator at our junkyard. I guess they sell them too cheap here. Got some guys literally follow the cars to the lot when they come in and rip the radiators and cats off of them as soon as they set them down. Aftermarket radios too. Pretty sure its an inside job but since its a national chain nobody gives a dXXX. They tear up the dashes, bust the grilles and hardware all to pieces and nobody says a word. I go 3 -6 times a month and dont think ive ever seen a radiator in a car of any kind. Bums me out....
 

mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Oct 22, 2015
7,639
Tampa Bay Area
Take a Very Close Look at the condition of the Ribs and Valleys of the Serpentine Belt. If you can see ANY unusual Fraying of the Cords or separation and Excessive Edge Wear of the Belt or inside the Grooves... you might suspect an alignment problem with one or more Pulleys or Accessory Components. A Misaligned Belt is capable of making Horrendous Noises from the Whining, Squeaking and Chirping caused when the Belt passes akimbo Clockwise over and through the Grooves and onto the Smooth surfaces of the Pulleys.

Since you mentioned replacing the Harmonic Balancer... it would have been imperative to do the following:

(1) Used a New Harmonic Balancer Friction Washer placed onto the nose of the New Harmonic Balancer.

(2) Prior to beginning, First having Locked the Flex Plate rigidly in place through the Hole in the underside of the Rear of the Crankcase-Oil Pan. This works using a Breaker Bar and a 15mm Deep Socket placed over One of the Three Torque Converter Bolts after removing the in-dwelling Black Plastic Plug and lining up the Socket and the Bolt Head inside of that Hole.

(3) Then after having installed a Brand New TTY Crankshaft Bolt and applying 110 Foot Pounds of Torque, it would've helped to have Painted a White Vertical Line across the Hex Bolt face running from 12:00 to the 6:00 Position, marking the Bolt Face as a reference point.

(4) This should've been followed up by imparting the Additional Final Torque To Yield Force necessary to get the Harmonic Balancer - Serpentine Pulley TTY Bolt Face Rotated Clockwise just enough to Invert the 12:00 with the 6:00 Positions. This activity is NOT Trivial since the HB -Serpentine Pulley is NOT held directly onto the Crankshaft via the 'Old Style' Slotted Woodruff Key.

Even though the Featured GM Vehicle in this Video covers these related issues on the GM V8 Engine ... the principals and concerns you have for your GM Atlas 4.2L I6 LL8 Engine Noisy Belt and Pulley Alignment issues are Identical.

It cannot be overstated that if the Power Steering Pump Serpentine Grooved Pulley is Incompletely Installed on the PS Pump Shaft, the Proper Alignment of the Serpentine Belt between the Crankshaft and all of the Accessory Pulleys thus becomes
Impossible:

 
Last edited:

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I go 3 -6 times a month and dont think ive ever seen a radiator in a car of any kind. Bums me out....

Maybe some yards rip them out during initial prep due to the value of the aluminum. Did you happen to notice if the same happens to the condensers and other large aluminum parts? Check the early years of 360's for aluminum rear drive shafts. I know here that Kenny-U-Pull always cut out cats. I never see those in the yard.
 

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