NEED HELP Stalled

[cretecrawler]

2006 envoy Denali 5.3, yesterday I left it idle while looking at a house and came back to find it stalled. Tried to restart with no luck. Tried repeatedly over the next 30 mins and nothing. Spins but no start, not even a cough. Got a ride back to a friend's house to call the hook. Came back about 1.5 hours later and tried it b4 he loaded it and it started and ran on truck roll back all the way to their house. So I drove it 45 mins home and it stalled again in the drive as I was parking it. This morning it started fine so I drove it locally to check it out. It stalled this time while just driving normal down the road. No bumps or sudden jarring action that would indicate a broken or loose wire. I got a screen shot of the fault codes.

 

[Sparky]

Lot of electrical codes there. May sound dumb but make sure your battery cables didn't work themselves loose somehow or have corrosion in the ends around the crimps.

 

[cretecrawler]

Ok, and I had just cleared all the codes. This time that it stalled I was actually driving and moving. It just stopped running, a/c was running and didn't seem to skip a beat.

 

[gmcman]

Are you using a K&N by chance? Reason I ask is the oil can contaminate the MAF meter. Not likely your issue but wanted to toss that out there.

 

[cretecrawler]

Are you using a K&N by chance? Reason I ask is the oil can contaminate the MAF meter. Not likely your issue but wanted to toss that out there.

No sir, all stock

 

[Mooseman]

So many codes would lead me to either one of two things. An electrical issue or a failing PCM. Check fuses, wiring, connections to PCM, power, grounds.

The B2AAA code happens when the adapter or Torque cannot read the particular code. Would need a Tech 2 to decipher.

Could you post the list of all codes?

 

[cretecrawler]

So many codes would lead me to either one of two things. An electrical issue or a failing PCM. Check fuses, wiring, connections to PCM, power, grounds.

The B2AAA code happens when the adapter or Torque cannot read the particular code. Would need a Tech 2 to decipher.

Could you post the list of all codes?

Umm not sure what you are requesting "the list of all the codes"

 

[christo829]

I think what Mooseman was asking was for the full list of codes you were showing. Your attached image only showed some of your codes. From the looks of the scroll bar, there were more that were off screen.

There might be something more in that list that provides the "smoking gun" to help pinpoint the problem.

Cheers-

Chris

 

[cretecrawler]

I think what Mooseman was asking was for the full list of codes you were showing. Your attached image only showed some of your codes. From the looks of the scroll bar, there were more that were off screen.

There might be something more in that list that provides the "smoking gun" to help pinpoint the problem.

Cheers-

Chris

Ok Chris, thank you

 

[cretecrawler]

 

[C-ya]

My first P1682 was the fuse block under the hood. I repaired a broken wire. My next P1682 code was the ignition switch.

Same codes as I had. https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/p1682-p0689-p2176-codes-and-no-start-when-warm.19651/

 

[Mooseman]

There were also a bunch of pending codes which had not fully set yet. Those happen when it needs more than one drive cycle to set. Could you post all of those too please?

 

[cretecrawler]

Here is all

 

[Mooseman]

Looks like there were more of the green pending ones according to the scroll bar. So far, it still looks like an electrical issue. As suggested, a thorough inspection of the fuse box and wiring should be done.

 

[cretecrawler]

Is that fuse box repair under the backseat or under the hood ?

 

[Mooseman]

My first P1682 was the fuse block under the hood. I repaired a broken wire. My next P1682 code was the ignition switch.

 

[cretecrawler]

Oh DUH.... thank you

 

[cretecrawler]

Ok got the fuse panel out and no wire breaks and no lack of continuity readings

 

[cretecrawler]

Update..... when I started the truck after the reinstall the starter kept running for a moment or two after releasing the key. To me that says the ignition switch is failing.... thoughts?

 

[Sparky]

It is a cheap easy thing to replace and def can cause weird electrical problems. Usually worth just shotgunning.

 

[Mooseman]

That is normal behaviour. I call it "flick start". You just flick the key and it cranks by itself until it starts (or stops after a few seconds if it fails). The starter relay is controlled by the PCM, not the key directly.

You can still try replacing the ignition switch anyway as a quick, cheap and easy shotgun.

 

[cretecrawler]

My back up plan

 

[cretecrawler]

I came out of work yesterday and it wouldn't start (spin freely but no start. I intended to just wait it out but got bored so I disconnected the negative cable, let it sit for a few minutes and after reassembly it started right up. So I raced it home but before I could get there it cut off on me. Mind you home is only about 5 miles away. I tried the negative battery trick again but it did not work. Changed out the ignition switch while in the parking lot. It started after the wait. But it did not improve the situation as when I got it home, I left it running and while I was gone on an errand run it stalled again and would not start again.

 

[cretecrawler]

well new development, I took the truck in to a certified mechanic and he states the issue is indeed in the fuse box. But the new news is that my local Chevy dealer has them in stock.... $361.99

 

[Mooseman]

I'm surprised they still have them new. Some have been able to just repair the old one, others found them in junkers. At least it should resolve the issue.

 

[cretecrawler]

Got it in and has been running for 45 mins. So far so good. If anyone needs the replacement part number it is 15141559.