SS Axle going into Envoy

[gmcman]

Granted Hardtrailz did this in his TB, I wanted to start another thread so I or anyone else, can also reference back to for any tips. This will be in a stock platform, no lift.

I made a dolly to aid in wheeling it around since this is just a lump of dead weight. I figure I will blast off the surface rust and get it cleaned up then shoot it with either some Rust-Oleum or something similiar. Just need a satin black and somethign that will weather well. I know it's just an axle but any rust that is denied any growth is a plus in my book.

Haven't started on it yet but this is it, 37K miles on the axle and they even kept the shocks and sway bar. The shocks may just work since mine have about 75K on them.

HARDTRAILZ, you are absolutely correct in your description....this is one SOB to move around and will be a pain trying to clean it up.

 

[Wooluf1952]

Spray it with some degreaser and rent a pressure sprayer it'll make short work of cleaning. Don't forget goggles or a face shield.

 

[jimmyjam]

i was lugging around the 8.5" rear from my impala two weeks ago and my back hasn't been the same since... defiantly be careful

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Is she in yet?

 

[gmcman]

Is she in yet?

She's in the garage.

Still on the stand. I haven't had a chance the last few weekends, been crazy busy. Sunday I'm pulling the diff cover and check it out, change the fluid.

 

[gmcman]

Cleaned up the surface rust and drained the case. Will open the cover tomorrow and inspect further.

 

[gmcman]

I opened up the case and everything looks good. When I was wiping the round magnet clean there was a hairline crack and a piece pulled off.

I obviously don't want it sitting in there in less than perfect form, anybody know where I can get one aftermarket? I honestly wish it wasn't in there.

 

[gmcman]

Today is the swap and last night before I went to bed, I had a revelation of something not being right.

After picking up the driveshaft and realized that the caps on the new joint are larger for the SS axle, I remembered there was no retainers on the donor axle and mine would likely not work.

After a call to the dealer this morining they confirmed my suspicion, 45 min round trip and all is good. I was very lucky as they were the only dealer remotely near me that had them. had I waited until I bolted everything up they would have been closed.

GM Part # 3920486

 

[gmcman]

The axle is in. :wootwoot:

However...... right when we were going to lower the jack, we ran it up to make sure all was good.

Everything was quiet, I studied the rear wheels and noticed a slight wobble, thought it was the tire and was an illusion. No, the wheel had a wobble so I went around and the RR had a slight wobble.

I didn't say anything since I spun the axles on the stand and everything looked fine, I kept my composure...and with the tires mounted any wobble will be more pronounce.

I removed the wheels, rotors to make sure nothing was against the faces of the rotor and axle flange...everything was clean.

I guess the donor axle was slammed against the curb and both axles are bent.....right now so am I but it's not the end of the world. I honestly believe the seller will make good on the axles and maybe get me some straight ones..he was a real cool guy and it has a warranty.

So, what is the process to remove the axles from a TB SS? Hopefully it's just a pin and not anything major.

It was almost too easy.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Typical C clip to remove shafts.

 

[gmcman]

I need someone here to help me put an issue to rest. I pulled the cover and rotated the carrier to release the axles....I didn't see this before but......

IS THIS NORMAL!!!

Sorry for the exclamation but it seems every time I turn around there's something possibly going wrong.

Do factory springs here carry a swipe of yellow paint?

The magnet on the bottom was cracked but was there, I didn't realize this but someone could have pulled the carrier and it slipped landing on the magnet. How does the magnet get cracked? I replaced it not thinking much of it at the time. Could also explain the bent axles.

I'm slightly uneasy about this. Hopefully I'm wrong.

Backlash is .007-.008 so not terrible.

 

[gmcman]

I am going to call false alarm on this, my buddy confirmed that the paint is normal and depicts spring tension.

I'm a little jumpy today.

 

[gmcman]

Seller is making good on the axles, I figured he would....they are cool customers. Should be here Wednesday.

I'm going to change the bearings just in case they took a hard blow.

 

[Opeth]

If you don't mind me asking, what did the axle run you? I haven't been able to find one at a decent price I feel like paying.

Couple other Q's..

What are you putting up in the front diff?

You going to keep the LSD or swap to a locker?

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

If you don't mind me asking, what did the axle run you? I haven't been able to find one at a decent price I feel like paying.

Couple other Q's..

What are you putting up in the front diff?

You going to keep the LSD or swap to a locker?

I paid about 500 for just the rear, but as a package deal with the front diff being far cheaper. He was asking 600 for just rear and that was the best I had seen. Most around 750.

 

[gmcman]

If you don't mind me asking, what did the axle run you? I haven't been able to find one at a decent price I feel like paying.

Couple other Q's..

What are you putting up in the front diff?

You going to keep the LSD or swap to a locker?

I came across a great price on this one but I had to go pick it up, cost the same to ship it so that wasn't happening. Had about 40K miles and came with the calipers, control arms which I reused since they are 5 years newer so the rubber is likely more solid. I offered the seler $350 and he accepted, but took about $40 in fuel for the round trip + tolls....$400 said and done.

Granted I'm having some issues right now but the seller is taking care of me, just needs to sit on jack stands for a few more days.

I'm leaving the front alone, lucky for me I have the factory 4:10 ratio.

I'm going to keep the LSD for now, like the locker idea but I will see how this works out.....for all my purposes I think it will workout fine. You will need to factor in some GM LS fluid which runs about $20/qt and prob $13/qt online, needs just over 2. Some people have had good luck with Amsoil Severe Gear + the additive but I didn't want to chance it since there is a TSB on this rear to use this particular fluid over the regular fluid with the additive.

Dexron LS Lubricant 88862624

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

I thought i put 3 qts of fluid in the 14 bolt...

 

[gmcman]

I thought i put 3 qts of fluid in the 14 bolt...

Should be 15-40 MM below the fill plug, I believe it's 2.7 qts so I can't imagine 3 would hurt.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Should be 15-40 MM below the fill plug, I believe it's 2.7 qts so I can't imagine 3 would hurt.

That sounds right. Far from the just over 2 you stated earlier.

I think I did about 2 and 3/4 bottles. I just used some cheap heavyweight stuff with the locker I added.

I do need to change it again since the gears are all synced up again.

 

[gmcman]

That sounds right. Far from the just over 2 you stated earlier.

How "far" is 1/2 qt?

I honestly don't know as I haven't driven mine yet but once I get everything back in I will report back. I put about 2 1/4 qts in then was going to check after I drove it around in the figure 8's as specified and also a few miles.

I don't know if the 2.7 qts is at the lowest level or the highest.

All I know is that fluid is expensive.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

20% far.

Would you run your engine at 1.5 qts low?

 

[gmcman]

20% far.

Would you run your engine at 1.5 qts low?

Touche' You just may win this debate.

I was mainly pointing out that "just over 2 qts" means YMMV and that you will need 3 qts and adjust the level as you see fit. Whether it's 2 1/4, 2.7 I don't know but you are correct in the fact I wouldn't run my engine oil at the lower hash mark being 1 qt low, let alone 1.5 low.


Updating the progress I have the replacement axles scheduled to be delivered today, I will press in the new bearings and seals and await the FedEx man.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

You say just over 2 qts of expensive fluid and many cheap-asses will only put 2 cause it saves a few bucks. When they will actually be way low and could cause some very expensive damage.

 

[gmcman]

You say just over 2 qts of expensive fluid and many cheap-asses will only put 2 cause it saves a few bucks. When they will actually be way low and could cause some very expensive damage.

You are absolutely correct.

Unfortunately there are cheap-asses everywhere and I surely don't want anyone to have to trash a rear from low fluid. Anyone who services their own vehicles need to read the manual or at least find out what capacities are associated with each area they are working on.

Rear diffs generally have the fluid filled to the bottom of the fill plug or just so that you can reach the tip of your finger in and check. Me, I'm all about what the manuals read so in this case it's 15-40MM below, about .6-1.6" below. If the fluid trickles out that surely is better than being below the 40mm mark naturally.

I said you need just over 2 qts which isn't 2. But don't get me wrong, I'm on your side in the fact you need to be more specific and just over 2 can be interpreted way different than 2.7.

When this is complete I will have more specific data on how much I used.

 

[gmcman]

The axle is all back together and I used 2.8 qts of fluid and that's about 10-20MM under the opening.

The replacement axles arrived last night and they looked straight from a preliminary standpoint. I installed them and wouldn't you know it they are freaking bent.

This time they are not nearly as bad as before but the flange has .010 runout on the left and .005 on the right, left was originally just over 1/16". I'm going back and forth right now with the seller so that's another story. I took a feeler gauge and placed it between the rotor and the flange and the wheel runs perfectly true now.

I know this is not a good way to do anything, I just wanted to see if it would true up. I wanted to take it for a test and see if there were any noises. I drove about 10 miles easy and I started out making a dozen figure 8's to work in the fluid.

The diff is quiet at speed, quiet on acceleration, but I noticed a very slight noise almost like a mid-pitch howl under deceleration/coast. The noise is very faint but immeduiately goes away if I touch the gas. I have read that this could be the pinion preload and I did notice that when the axle was out I could very easily turn the pinion.

Could this be from sitting outside for awhile or does the preload need to be addressed? Can I adjust the preload when it has miles on it?

Thanks.