So is my engine toast?

AzTruckGuy

Original poster
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Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Just did the fuel filter and spark plugs change today and I have to say the plugs were pretty much toast, bad news is 2 plugs had oil and the 3rd one had slight oil but burnt threads.

4.2 6 VORTEC

Spark plug order from front to back
1. very slight oil but toasted
2. clean but toasted
3. Oil on plug and toasted
4. clean but toasted
5 clean but toasted
6. drips of oil and toasted plug

took it around the block and it seemed fine and then I went on the street and give it same gas quickly, sounded like a chain sound rattling, did it again and sounds like a chain rattling.
This sound was not there before when I would gun it

Just got this TB and started tp put some cash into it, kind of disappointed now, seemed like a good SUV.
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,310
Ottawa, ON
Was the oil on the tip of the plug or the porcelain? If on the porcelain, that is the valve cover gasket at the plug well that is seeping oil so no worries.

For the rattling chain noise, is that at idle or at wide open throttle? Does it do it if you rev the engine in park? Can you make a video of the noise?

It's possible the engine needs to relearn parameters and is now over advancing the timing, causing ping and knock. Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and while waiting, clean the throttle body.
 

AzTruckGuy

Original poster
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Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Throttle body was cleaned on Wednesday and yes it as dirty. The sound happens when the throttle body is open. My sister just told me they replaced 2 coils, maybe the other 4 need to be replaced. I don't think this is it?

The main issue and I am still having is the TB wants to stall on me on start up and sometimes during driving, today was the first day it stalled on me. I am hoping the TB isn't going to be falling apart now that I am putting some money into it.

Today I changed the fuel filter and sparkplugs

Last week New battery and cleaned throttle body

week before that oil change and tire rotated by dealer.
 

mrrsm

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Just for the hell of it... Pull your Air Chamber/Valve Cover...and double check two things:

(1) That the COP (Coil On Spark) Spark Plug Electrical Connectors are on the RIGHT COPs
(2) That ALL of the COP Connectors are FIRMLY locked into place
 
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Sparky

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Dec 4, 2011
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How many miles?
 

07TrailyLS

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May 7, 2014
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Toledo ohio
Did you use recommended AC DELCO plugs
 

mrrsm

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Assuming AZ is using the term correctly... The expression "Toasted" is synonymous with the Spark-Plug Anode and Cathode and the adjacent metal areas appearing like a Nice, Golden "Fried Chicken Brown"... as proof of conditions of almost perfect combustion that leave the plugs' metal surfaces a sort of dry, Tan/Tope/Gray color, as opposed to them being wet, oily, black and burned or Gunked up inside there due to poor ignition conditions, improper plug design or size/gap and the resulting incomplete combustion in the top of the cylinder at each firing of the plug(s). Here is a link to an excellent Spark-Plug Performance Comparison Chart:

https://simonbbc.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/sparks_tell_tale.jpg
 
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mrrsm

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Forgive me the long-winded explanation... You're Right of course ...and I misunderstood your question as a being a rhetorical request for the "Definition of the Term". Valid though my answer might be... it's still My Bad.
 

AzTruckGuy

Original poster
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Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Ok figured out what the rattling was, seems my front grill is lose and when I let loose on the throttle, the grill was slapping against the frame, yes I am getting paranoid and yes I need to chill.

Ac Delco Iridium 41-103 plugs were used and here is the photos of the toasted plugs after 94k miles

1.jpg

2.jpg
So after doing the oil change, fuel filter change, throttle body clean, plug change, new battery....The TB is running smooth....but the damn wanting to stall issue has now become its stalled 2 times on me. This has to do with a fuel issue leak? When it shows the symptoms of wanting to stall its always when I give it gas, and when it has stalled on me it has been when I gave it gas. Doesn't always happen as all other times the it seems to be fine, cant say its heat issue as it has happened when the engine is cold and when the engine has been run for a while.

The SES light was on before I did all this work, after I did the work it went away and then came back and now its gone again.

Dealer is repairing fuel neck connection leak recall tomorrow, maybe I'll ask them what it could be, and no I wont let them charge me just to peak underneath the hood.
 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,310
Ottawa, ON
Even if the SES light goes out, the code remains in memory for a while. So maybe they could scan it for you but they will probably charge you for it.

I'm thinking maybe something with fuel pressure but would require further tests and analysis.
 

07TrailyLS

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May 7, 2014
423
Toledo ohio
Honestly you probably just need a new fuel filter. Ever see how messed up those things get? Just a thought
 

mrrsm

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Did you try to re-tighten the Intake Manifold Bolts? The bizarre "semi-circular design of the IM actually allows the heavy aluminum throttle body to bounce up and down like a 1 oz Lead Weight on the end of a light Fishing Tackle Rod. The effect of this over time is to cause a "tug and relax" cycle that gradually squeezes, flattens out and then releases the hourglass shaped rubber gaskets and loosens the myriad bolts holding the IM onto the Engine Head.

The secondary effect is that sudden atmospheric pressure changes will occur at different times and with different engine harmonics that may alter when the stalling or skipping proper reveals itself. I know its a PITA to have to reach all of these bolts, but if you start tightening from the center out and don't over-torque them, then you should be able to snug it up nice and tight and see how the motor conducts itself after that.
 
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littleblazer

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Jul 6, 2014
9,265
So it tends to stall if you're stopped and are trying to say move? Just want to make sure I have that right.
 

AzTruckGuy

Original poster
Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Check what the codes are, but it sounds like an O2 sensor to me.

Only 1 code came up 0440 which is the evp? I checked the gas cap and it's fine

So it tends to stall if you're stopped and are trying to say move? Just want to make sure I have that right.

Yes but not all the time, let's say at start up it will be fine and runs smooth and then I stop at a sign and as soon as I give it gas it will want to stall on me. Today I was at a stop sign and give it some gas but didnt go forward and it give that stall like feeling

Ok today I had another weird experience, this time with the ignition I turned the key and it didn't want to start. I tried to take the key out and it wouldnt budge. It was stuck in the off and on positions. Left alone for a minute or so and opened the drivers side and tried the key and it's like it reset itself and let me take the key out. It turned on. The ignition has been weird like that, as if I turn it to the on position and it's over rotated? I read somewhere Chevy did a recall for this last year due to it causing the vehicles to stall? I wonder if this is the cause? After the tuneup the TrailBlazer feels smooth and the engine seems good expect for that stall issue at times

i
Did you try to re-tighten the Intake Manifold Bolts? The bizarre "semi-circular design of the IM actually allows the heavy aluminum throttle body to bounce up and down like a 1 oz Lead Weigh on the end of a light tackle fishing rod. The effect of this over time is to cause a "tug and relax" cycle that gradually squeezes, flattens out and then releases the hourglass shaped rubber gaskets and loosens the myriad bolts holding the IM onto the Engine Head.

The secondary effect is that sudden atmospheric pressure changes will occur at different times and with different engine harmonics that may alter when the stalling or skipping proper reveals itself. I know its a PITA to have to reach all of these bolts, but if you start tightening from the center out and don't over-torque them, then you should be able to snug it up nice and tight and see how the motor conducts itself after that.
checked them and they are fine, thanks for the advice
 
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littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
The stall you are referring to with the ignition is the key literally turning off. It seems like you maybe have a battery or ignition switch issue though... as for the stalling, you said it seems better when you run a fuel cleaner through it right?
 
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Blckshdw

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Nov 20, 2011
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Tampa Bay Area, FL
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Matt

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Dec 2, 2011
4,022
With that ignition/key problem I'd be looking at the switch as well.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

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Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I keep a spare ignition switch in the center console. Seems for awhile it was a really common issue and was a source of several minor oddball issues.
 
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AzTruckGuy

Original poster
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Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Ok I will be getting a ign switch and not from the dealer who told me over the phone $57 nah I'll get the OE part online for around $20. Thanks for all the advice everyone give me
 
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triz

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Apr 22, 2013
746
I'd go basic on this one from what you've mentioned. Add some concentrated Techron. I've never had a really dirty throttle body. But if yours was that dirty spray the MAP sensor with MAF cleaner. I assume you've also changed the air filter. Your not using a K and N?
 

AzTruckGuy

Original poster
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Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
I'd go basic on this one from what you've mentioned. Add some concentrated Techron. I've never had a really dirty throttle body. But if yours was that dirty spray the MAP sensor with MAF cleaner. I assume you've also changed the air filter. Your not using a K and N?

My Throttle was very dirty as was the fuel filter, cleaned and replaced. Since the Ign started acting weird its safe bet its the part that maybe causing my headcahes. No K & N yet , as I plan on getting a K & N type system to replace the stock unit and the box
 

Sir ffeJ

Member
Dec 1, 2011
543
I had the key stuck in the ignition to. Truck died for no reason. Battery was dead. jumped it, limped her home. Replaced battery, same issue came back next day. Turned out the alternator was bad and not charging the battery. Something to look into.

Just my .02
 

mrrsm

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This is probably a stupid question but... which Grade of Gasoline have you generaly been burning as a rule? And about your spark plugs being "Toasted"... I suspect that what looks like blow-by around the metal-to-ceramic interface ...is probably just cooked motor oil that gravity seeped down into the cylinder spark plug well from the surrounding upper valve cover. After you get things completely sorted out and working again...when time permits... I would be very curious to see what the plugs look like end on from what the pistons see and some close-ups on an oblique angle to the gaps to see what if anything has collected in the Spark Plug fire-wells.

As per @Matt

"...With that ignition/key problem I'd be looking at the switch as well..."

The below video covers the replacement of the Ignition Switch... But first, turn the sound down before you start o play this video because the opening generic blue screen segment for 1aauto is so over-modulated that it will rupture your ear drums. As soon as the actual HOW-TO instructions begin...the sounds becomes normal again:

 
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AzTruckGuy

Original poster
Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
This is probably a stupid question but... which Grade of Gasoline have you generaly been burning as a rule? And about your spark plugs being "Toasted"... I suspect that what looks like blow-by around the metal-to-ceramic interface ...is probably just cooked motor oil that gravity seeped down into the cylinder spark plug well from the surrounding upper valve cover. After you get things completely sorted out and working again...when time permits... I would be very curious to see what the plugs look like end on from what the pistons see and some close-ups on an oblique angle to the gaps to see what if anything has collected in the Spark Plug fire-wells.

As per @Matt

"...With that ignition/key problem I'd be looking at the switch as well..."

The below video covers the replacement of the Ignition Switch... But first, turn the sound down before you start o play this video because the opening generic blue screen segment for 1aauto is so over-modulated that it will rupture your ear drums. As soon as the actual HOW-TO instructions begin...the sounds becomes normal again:


I have no clue what my sister was running in it but my guess is 87 as I did that when I first got it last month, I let the gas run low and put a full tank of 91 into. The trailblazer is running smooth before changing to 91 with the tuneup.

Thanks for the video, I found that on YouTube myself when I search how to replace the switch. The envoy has a different dash then the trailblazer but I assume its the same, as I took out the dash in less then 5 minutes to replace my stereo today, I was checking out the steering wheel adjustment knob that changes the height, I tried to pull on as the video and it didn't want to budge?
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,676
Tampa Bay Area, FL
If your steering wheel adjusts, then that's good. Or does it go up and down all the time without locking in place? The adjustment lever doesn't come 'out', it just slides back towards the driver maybe an inch or so, and springs back into the lock position.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,310
Ottawa, ON
If you watch the video, it's supposed to pull out for removal of the cover. Maybe it just needs more oomph to pull.
 

Blckshdw

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Nov 20, 2011
10,676
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Went out and checked, mine wasn't easily persuaded to pop out either.
 

AzTruckGuy

Original poster
Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Went out and checked, mine wasn't easily persuaded to pop out either.
Good but it did come out right? I didn't want to break it, since I don't have the part yet but will have it Monday, I think. So in the video when he replaces it, he turns it from off to on and acc, to make sure it works. I would have just put everything back together, this video is good. Also those gears are made plastic and no wonder they fail, my trailblazer has 94k miles, that's a lot of turns
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,676
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Mine didn't come off by hand. I watched the video, he pries it off with a screw driver. I replaced my ignition switch years ago, and don't remember taking that off. I probably just bent the lower half out of the way, and went to work cuz I'm impatient like that.
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
The one on my truck required a bit of coaxing... smooth flathead under it and it slid right off. You'll feel forceful but not to the point that you feel like you could break it.
 

AzTruckGuy

Original poster
Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Ok so I revisited plug#3 since it was the worst condition when I replaced it. Very slight oil on the plug this time around, not even a amount that showed up on the rag I cleaned the plug with, the threads seem dirty though for a plug I changed out 8 months ago? What do you guy think?

IMG_1879.JPG

IMG_1880.JPG IMG_1881.JPG IMG_1882.JPG IMG_1883.JPG
 

Big B Jantzen

Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
Loosing all power and Key stuck in ignition: I actually have had this issue. When I go to turn on it looses power and keeps the key. If I jiggle the positive battery cable it always comes back. I just replaced my battery and alternator(went bad). So try that next time(jiggle battery cables), don't over think it, usually is very low level issues.

Stalling: I have had stalling issues only if I am turning wheel while going from reverse to drive and don't give enough gas.

Well, I changed steering pump to no help, but had to replace alternator 2 days ago and the stalling has seem to stop. I am guessing the pulley on the old alternator was seizing a bit. Belt use to be bouncy, but now smooth as butter!!!
 

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