I’m new to the forum, I heard this is the place to come for the technical stuff. I have a 2008 Saab 9-7x , AWD, 5.3, 3.73 gears all stock.I have the NV/NP126 AWD transfer case and I’m looking into possibly upgrading to the NVG120 from the trailblazer SS/Aero Torsen style. I’ve been doing some digging, but don’t have any definitive answer. I know this is a true mechanical style transfer case my question is what do I need to address at the front differential to make that compatible for the transfer case as mine has a disconnect and I know that the trailblazer SS style is a fixed unit. Would there be a way to lock mine in or would I have to do some swapping of parts at the front differential? I know I’ll have lights on the dash leaving the existing transfer case harnesses disconnected if there’s a way around that? Also, I heard something about the steering rack being involved,curious about that also. If anybody out there has any input it would be appreciated!
Saab 97X 5.3 AWD transfer case swap for trailblazer SS style questions about front differential compatibility
- Thread starter Nicks9-7x
- Start date
Although we've seen NP126 to NP226 conversions, haven't seen any to the SS' full time Torsen AWD TC. Probably because they are harder to find or nobody was interested in full time AWD with higher fuel use. I know the SS guys often delete them because of some reliability issues with them, probably from being abused, and exhaust routing with headers.
If dimensions are the same, it should be a straight swap. If not, you'll also have to grab both driveshafts from the SS.
The disconnect is not a true disconnect. It's basically a fake and is permanently connected to the axle. It's the same setup as the SS. Nothing to change there.
For the Service AWD light and message coming on, maybe some resistors in the connector will take care of that except when you have rear wheel slip (the Torsen is a 60/40 power split so some slip may be possible), the TCC will try to engage the front wheels and will fail, giving you the light again. It should turn off when you switch off the truck and restart. Only way I can think of to avoid the light completely is to leave the encoder motor connected but zip tied under the truck.
I don't know if the 3.73 vs. 4.10 gears may affect the Torsen's 60/40 power bias. It might not like it or change absolutely nothing.
Edit: Just remembered that the NP126 has both front and rear speed sensors. I have no idea if the Torsen has one or both. If it only has one for the rear, the light will come on as soon as you move as it won't see any front wheel speed. Maybe connect both to the one sensor and it will think it never slips.
If dimensions are the same, it should be a straight swap. If not, you'll also have to grab both driveshafts from the SS.
The disconnect is not a true disconnect. It's basically a fake and is permanently connected to the axle. It's the same setup as the SS. Nothing to change there.
For the Service AWD light and message coming on, maybe some resistors in the connector will take care of that except when you have rear wheel slip (the Torsen is a 60/40 power split so some slip may be possible), the TCC will try to engage the front wheels and will fail, giving you the light again. It should turn off when you switch off the truck and restart. Only way I can think of to avoid the light completely is to leave the encoder motor connected but zip tied under the truck.
I don't know if the 3.73 vs. 4.10 gears may affect the Torsen's 60/40 power bias. It might not like it or change absolutely nothing.
Edit: Just remembered that the NP126 has both front and rear speed sensors. I have no idea if the Torsen has one or both. If it only has one for the rear, the light will come on as soon as you move as it won't see any front wheel speed. Maybe connect both to the one sensor and it will think it never slips.
Thanks for the information. I appreciate the insight a lot to digest here. I definitely should probably pick the brains on the SS guys and see how that system behaves versus mine. The resistors are a good idea that may fool the computer of thinking the voltage supply is there when it’s really not. As far as the front differential it looks like I should be fine with leaving that alone so that’s definitely helpful. I wouldn’t assume that the gearing would matter, but I’m gonna dive in a little more. I appreciate it.