Replacing Worn Parts - Anything I Need to Know?

[Dadwagon]

The front shocks on my Rainier are worn out. I say this based on the extra bounces in the front end after hitting any bumps or applying brakes, in addition to a bit of leakage and rust on the shocks themselves. With these needing to be replaced, I'm also going to put in new springs to start "fresh." In addition, the upper ball joints are cracked and will be replaced along with the upper shock mounts.
I have secured all of these parts from Moog (springs), Bilstein (shocks), and ACDelco (ball joint, shock mounts to frame).

I'm bringing everything to a shop and having the install done by professionals as I don't even have a garage to do the work let alone the tools. Is there anything I need to know before heading in tomorrow? This is pretty standard stuff for old truck repair, right? Nothing I need to be on the lookout for?

Hoping the truck handling tightens up and lessons the bouncing on the freeway. Exciting!

 

[TollKeeper]

The only thing I would probably add to the list of parts is the front wheel bearings. Likely they are bad, and your already in there, is just 1 more step.

 

[Eric04]

Everything looks to be in order given your list and no, there should not be any headaches for the shop with any of those repairs. However, do not be surprised if they tell you that your control arm bushings are shot /or the lower ball joint as well. Your ride has about 130k miles on it and that's about the limit on the factory front end parts judging from the experience of many here(including me). It sounds like you have a good relationship with the shop so other than bracing yourself for more parts purchases you should be fine.

 

[gmcman]

I would definitely look to replace the bushings since you seem to want to get the ride correct.

Upper control arms include the bushings, lower control arm with bracket include the lower bushings, lower strut bushing, and lower ball joint.

Add in both tie rod ends since your alignment will need to be reset after you remove the lower control arm bracket, I would knock it all out at once.

The Moog tie rod ends are pricey though, about $100 each.

As far as springs, make sure they are matched for your vehicle. Going by the factory specs, your LF and RF likely have different spring rates. Will it make a huge difference? Maybe not, but they did that for a reason. I believe later on they may have had the same rates, but double check your VIN at the dealer and see what they say first.

 

[Dadwagon]

The work has been done. It feels about the same With tighter turning and much less bouncing over bumps and when stopping. The shop techs noted the bushings do need replacing. That will be my next DIY project as the labor cost has cost more than I anticipated. It was a one day turnaround which is required for me.

 

[Dadwagon]

I take it back! The truck handles much tighter. Had to go on a drive without my kid in the car and bed in new rotors and pads. Very happy with the setup. Let’s see how much things change as the springs settle. Cool beans these are very fun to drive!