Replacing ignition switch

buckeyefan

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
21
Ok so I am replacing my ignition switch and when I was pulling the old one out I grabbed the top where the white wheel is and it turned and now I do not know where the teeth need to be.:hissyfit: Does anyone know in which position the teeth need to be in?
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR

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buckeyefan

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
21
THANK YOU to the roadie :thumbsup:! I tried to search, but nothing I searched showed anything other than how to remove it.
 

DFWWIZ

Member
Dec 5, 2011
516
buckeyefan said:
THANK YOU to the roadie :thumbsup:! I tried to search, but nothing I searched showed anything other than how to remove it.

TBSSowners has it covered quite a bit also. If Roadie hadn't jumped I would have given ya the spiel on it.
 

buckeyefan

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
21
Ok so I set the teeth like it says and I put the switch in, connect the negative battery terminal turned the switch the lights went out and key stuck again. I set the teeth on the first click like in the description. PLEASE HELP.
 

DFWWIZ

Member
Dec 5, 2011
516
buckeyefan said:
Ok so I set the teeth like it says and I put the switch in, connect the negative battery terminal turned the switch the lights went out and key stuck again. I set the teeth on the first click like in the description. PLEASE HELP.

I'd say you are still off a bit if that's happening. I never disconnected battery so I scrolled thru the teeth with my thumb before installing it back into the "hole" to determine where to have the notch. You can actually start it up this way.
 

buckeyefan

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
21
Thanks for all everyones help. I finally got it. I guess us girls need a little more direction lol.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Glad to hear, and thanks for the report back. Not sure how we could have guessed your gender by the screen name, or if it would have made any difference in our advice anyway. To assume anything about the number of tools you own or your repair experience could have been condescending - not what anybody here does. So don't put yourself down, either. :wootwoot:
 

buckeyefan

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
21
Thanks "the roadie". My mom brought me up to do things for myself as she is the same way lol My husband appreciates that I do alot of the things women think are "man" jobs. I don't know how I would have done it without you guys here at GMT Nation! This site is FAR better than trailvoy. :biggrin:
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
buckeyefan said:
This site is FAR better than trailvoy. :biggrin:
Thanks from everyone for the kind words. Before Dec 2011, trailvoy was our community, but new absentee ownership destroyed it. So now we're here, keeping the helpful spirit alive and passing on what we all can.
 
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buckeyefan

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
21
Ok guys I am back :banghead:So after getting the ignition switch to work and starting the truck up I was relieved. I decided to remove the Pioneer HU and put the factory stereo back in. I got the Pioneer out, factory one in and started to replace the dash surround (not sure what it's called) and as soon as I get the last screw in the lights went off. I tried to start it and key stuck in ignition AGAIN! NO POWER! Checked battery and it was fully charged. What in the world could be going on? Any other ideas what I could check/try?
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Blew one of the fuses with the reassembly? I've posted elsewhere about the J - case fuses that feed the ignition switch. At least take the dash trim off and look around for a pinched harness. And check those large fuses at the edge of the fuse block.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Finally got to a computer where I could more easily do the cut and paste:

RED on the ignition switch is 12V, fused by underhood fuse #34, and feeds the following three circuits:

White is hot in ACCY, RUN, START
Orange is hot in RUN
Yellow is hot in START

RED/WHITE is another 12V, fused by underhood fuse #36, and feeds two circuits:

Brown is hot in ACCY, RUN
Pink is hot in RUN, START
 

buckeyefan

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
21
Ok so I checked the fuses (except the relays which I will do tomorrow) and no blown fuses or pinched harness. Can you think of anything else I can check? It is dead in the water and I can't even take it to a mechanic at this point :sadcry:
 

buckeyefan

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
21
I have not done that yet I am going to have my husband do that tomorrow. I was just wondering if there was anything else I could check before he gets home tomorrow. I will let you know tomorrow after he gets home and tests them. I am so grateful for all your help
 

buckeyefan

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
21
Ok so we tested the wires and everything was good. I was so frustrated I called a good friend who is the head mechanic and begged him to come to my house and help me. He found the battery cable had some wires with some issues. He fixed that and everything is fine. I felt so stupid not thinking to inspect the battery cable. So needless to say I now have a new battery and ignition switch (which I did not need) and I removed and sold my stereo (thought that was what was causing the initial problem since it would not shut off). Just wanted to let you know what I found and to thank you again for all your time and help :duh::duh:
 

Darkrider_LS

Member
Jan 25, 2013
9,332
Welcome to the Nation and glad to hear you got it all sorted out :thumbsup:
 

SirRobin53

Member
Apr 27, 2014
118
Not stupid at all. What was learned trumps a minor misdiagnosis. Going in to the ign switch and radio is AWSOME. Battery and cable are the eaisiest to overlook I think.It has tripped me up more than once.
AND, Thanks for the follow up. I like these with a HAPPY ending :smile:.

WELCOME
 
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