Replacement bulbs for Rear Audio unit and headlamp switch

[LikeEnvoy]

Yes, I have burnt out bulbs. What's new. I saw this article on "how-to-replace-burnt-out-window-switch-lights-on-02-05-envoy" (https://gmtnation.com/forums/thread...witch-lights-on-02-05-envoy.9503/#post-587210), but the bayonet type lamp shown there is different to the ones in the rear audio/hvac control unit.
These have contacts in the bayonet base that go through the PCB and contact on the opposite side, so those other ones shown with simply a wire bent over the base won't work.
.
I am going to try and get the contacts out and fit "grain of wheat" type bulbs into the bases, but if the contacts break by bending out and back I will need the whole base/bulb units. Anyone come across these? The bulb itself is 4mm diameter while the base is 10.5mm diameter. 12v of course.

Also, how about supplies of the headlamp switch bulbs? 3mm diameter with bi-pin base.


EDIT: I found a Hummer site that seems to use these rear audio bulbs:
You can see the contacts bent and removed here, as I have now done. It risks breaking the contact when bending back into place though. These bulbs are sold here: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338077216&icep_item=273903488481 , but do not ship to Canada plus they would work out quite expensive.

Also, the Toyota #90010-09017 looks the same part except no blue cover filter. Surely these are available in Canada for a reasonable price?

 

[LikeEnvoy]

Related to this: Has anyone got a rear window switch that DOES have the illumination LED inside? I found my rear window switches just do not have them. GM left them out. See picture; the outline I added is around the missing parts. Seems to be an LED, resistors, a capacitor and a diode.

 

[Blckshdw]

Mine did, came across it when I did my interior LED swap. Didn't take a pic of the circuit board for that one, but I thought the polarity was labelled on mine.

I think those leads should be able to handle a couple of bends before they break. As long as you're not going back and forth a bunch of times

 

[LikeEnvoy]

Mine did, came across it when I did my interior LED swap. Didn't take a pic of the circuit board for that one, but I thought the polarity was labelled on mine.

I think those leads should be able to handle a couple of bends before they break. As long as you're not going back and forth a bunch of times

Thanks Blckshdw. I'll give my lamp holders a go. If you ever do find a picture of the window switch with the led etc. please post it. I can see an A on the board for the LED anode but I don't know what values/types D2, R2, R3 and C5 are. Oh well, I guess I don't see the rear window switches normally.

 

[Blckshdw]

From what we know, you should only need 1 resistor inline with the LED for it to work, based on whatever your input voltage is, and the ratings of the LED you're gonna use. In your case, what I would do, is break out the trusty volt meter, plug in the back door switch and see what the voltage reading is at the contact pads when the parking lights are on.

If you see full voltage (12-14v) then you could use some LEDs like these, that have built in resistors already on them. Trim the legs if you want to mount them closer to the board, nice and easy. Not to mention if you were in any way curious to swapping LED bulbs elsewhere, these would make that task pretty easy as well.

Amazon.com

If you see reduced voltage, which I assume you won't since your resistor pads are empty. You could put a standard 5mm LED in that spot, which is the route I ended up taking.

 

[LikeEnvoy]

OMG... I forgot to respond to this thread. Thanks Blckshdw for tips. I had to put that idea on hold but I will be following up at some time soon.

 

[LikeEnvoy]

Final update... 2022 July, I put new incandescent bulbs (I got these for my instrument panel; 5mm diameter (98mA /1.1W) into the holders and bent the contacts back carefully. The contacts were ok with the bending, as you thought, and once together I finally installed the rear audio unit to my car, after adding the serial data wire and battery volts wire along to the C307 connector (the one under the centre console). It's been a few years and through Covid since I began this route.
I now have a nice, fancy display for my rear HVAC... AND this unit remembers the last setting you had on it. That means that when I have the rear HVAC set to both face level and footwell, when I turn the front fan switch off or turn the ignition off, it shuts down and when I start up again or turn the front fan on again, the rear HVAC turns on and sets back to the face level and footwell.
The old, simple, rear HVAC control always defaulted to OFF when I turned the ignition off, which was very annoying.

 

[LikeEnvoy]

ALSO, regarding that rear Window switch Illumination: my local junk yard finally got a 2007 Denali in and its rear window switches have LEDS built in! So it seems GM cheaped out on the SLE by removing the LEDS, but fitted them to Denalis.

Here is the PCB from the Denali rear switch:


It has D1, R5, R6 and the black D2 chip. If anyone wants to try an upgrade they could fit these parts by finding some parts from any junk instrument panel or other GM PCB they have (or experiment with similar components). I just swapped my old ones for these Denali switches.

A nice little feature that should have been standard.