NEED HELP Replace Secondary Air Hose assembly

Sally

New Member
I bought a 2005 Trailblazer LS and have been slowly performing maintenance and small repairs. I am attempting to remedy a code p0410. I look under the hood and notice the hose is disconnected. So, I reconnected and ran - sure enough the code reappears. I can hear the pump running so I disconnect the hose again just to be sure no moisture runs down and damages what I believe to be a good pump. Reading online, I decide to go ahead and change the air injection valve. (I know I should test but I lack the tools/expertise to do this.)When I go under the hood and start on the job, I find that when I disconnect the other hose, things are free and I can pull out half of the hose assembly. The plastic junction is broken. My question is how do I replace this hose assembly. I can find the part on line, I see on the diagram a single bolt that secures it but I don't know how to access it. Any tips?
 
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Sally

New Member
Thanks, once I get the tubing replaced I can tackle this testing. Do you have any tips for replacing the hose assembly? It's in a really tight spot just to get to the bolt from under the hood. Snaking the hoses down to the pump could be tricky too. I wasn't able to find anything on youtube. If anyone wants to make a video that would be tremendous.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Sally... Unless you have ruptured or punctured either one or both of the two hoses... perhaps you can wait on replacing them... just long enough to try a suggestion from someone who owns an identical Year Make and Model of Vehicle and see if what they tried successfully resolves the issue:

From Answers.com ...

"How do you fix a secondary air injection system malfunction on a 2005 Chevy trailblazer?"


Answered by The Community
Making the world better, one answer at a time.

I had the same problem. First is it recommended to command the air pump on that is located underneath the driver seat bolted to the frame. If that turns on then the motor is good. Then it said to check the 2 hoses connected to the pump and that run to the solenoid to the top left of the motor to see if the hoses are clogged. Then I removed the solenoid located on the left of the motor, and fed power and ground from a external power source on the two pins of the solenoid. It didn't open and then replaced the solenoid, ran through a drive cycle and it was fixed correctly
 
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Sally

New Member
The plastic hose junction that bolts to the back of the engine is in pieces. I don't know how in the world someone could break it. They must have pulled really hard on the upper hoses..in the winter..or been removing the head and didn't unbolt the hose assembly. But if that were the case, you would think they would have repaired it. There is only 87K on the truck so I can't imagine they were doing anything so major.
It is definitely tight back in there. I can just contort enough to get a finger on the bolt. I was hoping for an alternative to removing the intake manifold. I am not in a rush, the truck runs and I still get 18mpg on the highway. I will order the parts and monitor the post until Spring. It's cold here in Minnesota and my garage is not heated. Thanks.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter

DIY Fixer

Well-Known Member
Sally when you say plastic hose... do you really mean the metal hose that bolt to the exhaust manifold connected to the Air Injection Check Valve. Here are the front and rear check valve pictures from my 2002 Cadillac Deville.
 

webdawg

Well-Known Member
I think this is the hose you are looking for:

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=6674740&cc=1424281&jnid=547&jpid=0

ACDELCO 15240704

15240704_Primary.jpg

After looking that the service procedure myself, they do say to remove the intake manifold. Just to get to the bolts I guess or to pull the part out? That plastic is not flexible on this Secondary Air Injection Pump Hose.

I do not know why they designed it like this, they have the AC lines ran all over the engine blocking things but they had to design a custom plastic baffel to wedge this behind the engine?

If you take that intake manifold off, make sure to replace the gasket and torque correctly. (ACDELCO 89017871) One of the bolts at the firewall is very hard to get to and torque, I HAD to use a swivel and compensated when I did. I had to hold the socket and swivel while someone else used the torque wrench. I am at 170k and my gasket was just destroyed. It was completely flat, I do not know how/why. (old, over torqued?)

You are also dealing with the PCM there which all the wires run to and the connectors/holders that hold those in. It is a bit of a mess. But it is manageable.

I used a Lisle 37000 Air Conditioning/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRCK6) to disconnect the two fuel lines. One was kind of a pain but you have have to take your time and work it a bit.

I also relieved the pressure like the manual says way before that (beginning of the job). You have to disconnect them because they are attached to the bracket that you have to unbolt. I ended up taking the "wire harness bracket" off/out completely because I was having problems positioning stuff out of the way. I used lots of zip ties to hold everything. I never took the wires off of the PCM (the procedure does not say to either).

At one point you have to 'remove' the crankcase ventilation hose (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0G05CE/) to get to some bolts on the intake manifold. It goes from the manifold to manifold. I think I almost cracked my manifold getting that thing off. I did not remove it completely, just the top part. I wedged against the top of it. I did not want to twist as I did not want to crack the plastic.

Make sure to count the number of bolts on the manifold. Once you take it off you see how they are patterned but even then if I did not count I would have missed one.

I am at 170k and that tube was/is fine. I cracked just the top of this rubber vacuum line just a bit. I am going to replace. Next time I might take the bottom off first but the bottom has a metal clamp on it that you need to squeeze. I did not do that because I figured it might be hard to get to. I might do that part first. Or possibly I will just cut it off (without damaging the intake manifold) next time and expect to replace. I just did not want to crack the manifold taking this one tube off.

When I put the intake manifold back on I made dam sure that the gasket was still in the right position. The gasket fits into slots on the manifold, so it was not hard but I was able to double check with a flashlight.

I do not know how long fuel injectors last (http://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/car-part-longevity/fuel-injectors-last.htm) in a vehicle and I guess it is not a huge pain to take the manifold off (just some time) but I replaced my injectors. It was one of the reasons I took the manifold off in the first place (I was having huge issues with my vehicle) so this is a completely different situation. @ 86k you may just want to leave things alone but you will have access to your fuel rail and injectors while you have the intake off.

I do not know what kind of tools you have but when I did this on my 2004, I needed to torque the intake manifold bolts to 89 INCH pounds. Just to give you an idea of the type of torque wrench you will need. Let me know if you need procedures but it sounds like you have them already.
 

DIY Fixer

Well-Known Member
Webdawg it just crazy how every single auto maker differ from one and another even in parts design. The way to get to that specific part can be very ridiculous.
 

rtliquid

Active Member
Aside from the hose issue, be sure to check your fuses. I bought a used '04 with a recurring P0410. After several trips back to the dealer (and a new unneeded pcm) I discovered I had a MISSING fuse!.
 

webdawg

Well-Known Member
Sally when you say plastic hose... do you really mean the metal hose that bolt to the exhaust manifold connected to the Air Injection Check Valve. Here are the front and rear check valve pictures from my 2002 Cadillac Deville.
The trailblazer does not have the metal tube, it injects through a port in the engine instead of the mainfold.
 

DIY Fixer

Well-Known Member
Webdawg yeah I seen that on mine too. It get air direct from the exhaust port but my 03 Envoy doesn't come equip with the Secondary Air System and I AM SO GLAD it does not. Checking that system is a pain. Some people will sometime skip over checking the solenoid thinking it is fine also.
 

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