NEED HELP Replace Control Arms or Just Bushings?

[PProph]

'03 TB 4.2 LTZ, 304000+km

I've had some stability issues for awhile, and I know very little of these things. I'm looking at repairs needed to get my TB back on the road until I get something new. Finally had it to my mechanic today to diagnose a host of issues that need repairs as I don't have the time to put into it myself, and I trust him.

Anyways my front control arm bushings are toast, so I have the option to replace the control arms or just the bushings. He said he can do either, the bushings would take a little more time and effort to press in is all vs just replacing the control arms. Looking at the prices on RockAuto I don't know that it's worth the extra effort to save the cost of just replacing the whole control arms. Also we're talking all 4 front most like, uppers for sure. The right side is worse but the left side isn't great either. What would the fine folks at GMT recommend?

Wouldn't be surprised if I've got other issues in there (ball joints, swaybars), but the control arms bushings are in such bad shape that it's tough to quick diagnose the others. I'm doing up my rockauto order so would love some feedback. Thanks!

 

[Beacon]

Did he quote you a price for both scenarios 1) replace bushings or 2) replace new control arms? If I were paying someone to do this, I think I would just replace the bushings, provided your arms still look structurally sound. Unless it would be cheaper to replace the whole arm assembly. However, if it has been a long time since you replaced the ball joints, or they are original, you could end up saving labor charges in the future, if after replacing the bushings, it is discovered that your ball joints are in poor shape.

 

[PProph]

Yeah, just looking at the cost of the lower and I'm starting to think bushings might be the way to go. He's a family friend (experienced certified mechanic, not just a backyard tinkerer) that has worked on our vehicles since before I could drive so labour cost isn't really an issue. Won't be surprised if there's more trouble in there but these bushings are definitely trouble so we're starting there.

 

[Redbeard]

I did both right and left upper control arms several years ago. It is a straight forward job and the prices of the arms with bushings seemed fair at the time. If I had to do the arms again I would do the same thing, no complaints. You might save a couple of bucks with just the bushing, but if there is anything unexpected (damage or rust etc) you'll be cursing yourself about it. Just my 2¢.

 

[6716]

I did upper control arms a while back, I wasn't set up to press in new bushings so I just bought all new arms.

On the lower control arms, you can just replace the bracket if you want. That's actually on my list for soon-ish.

 

[budwich]

you are likely talking "pennies".... if your bushing are gone, then the ball joint(s) are likely near / next. The upper control arms come complete for a "song". They have to be removed to press in new bushings (more labor) any way. IF labor is free (yours or otherwise), it might be OK but add in the additional cost of ball joints and the "piece mealing" like isn't worth while.

 

[Pygot]

The price comparison is not worth the process of pressing a bearing out of a control arm. I think the control arms will get beat up and for the time invested ($) in labor it will be worth getting stock or better control arms that dont need to be replaced for another 304km

 

[PProph]

Appreciate all the responses, I think I'm starting to lean that way. Expecting ball joints and swaybars to be near too but will inspect that during/after the control arm replacements. Thanks all, I think I'm nearing my answer. Now I just need to figure out where to go for an alignment after all this.

 

[gmcman]

@PProph To test your lower ball joint, jack up the front tire by the lower control arm, not the frame. With the tire about an inch off the ground, take a prybar under the tire and lift up. If you see the lower ball joint compress, you should replace it.

The lower control arm bushings can be replaced with a new lower control arm bracket....usually has the bushings installed.

There are complete assemblies with the lower bracket and ball joint but I've never used one as a set.

The lower brackets require a lot of tightening torque, 195 foot pounds for the large bolt, 177 foot pounds for the two smaller bolts.

You will need an alignment after so check your tie rod ends also to capitalize on one alignment.

 

[Mektek]

I have an idea to avoid needing an alignment after removing the lower control arm bracket.
Drill a 1/8" hole beside the front and back screws through the bracket and frame. Then use a long drywall screw through the holes to locate the bracket when reinstalling. You'll be able to reinstall the lower bracket in exactly the same spot it was originally.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Drill a couple extra holes to help introduce rust in my suspension and frame to avoid a few bucks on an alignment...that is a big Hell No from me.

 

[gmcman]

I have an idea to avoid needing an alignment after removing the lower control arm bracket.
Drill a 1/8" hole beside the front and back screws through the bracket and frame. Then use a long drywall screw through the holes to locate the bracket when reinstalling. You'll be able to reinstall the lower bracket in exactly the same spot it was originally.

That's a good idea, but I strongly feel it won't work as intended. It only takes a tenth of a degree to be out of spec, add in worn bushings from the start and you are almost guaranteed to have your alignment out when done.

Will it track straight? Possibly. However with the cost of an alignment, it's only a win/win situation with regards to saving the tires.

 

[aaserv]

If I didnt have to factor in labor costs Id for sure use ACDelco OEM just get the bushings done and be worry free for another 100K+ miles..

 

[6716]

I bought the lifetime alignment for the Trailblazer at Firestone 10 years ago for $150. That may be the best maintenance money I ever spent.

 

[Sparky]

I have an idea to avoid needing an alignment after removing the lower control arm bracket.
Drill a 1/8" hole beside the front and back screws through the bracket and frame. Then use a long drywall screw through the holes to locate the bracket when reinstalling. You'll be able to reinstall the lower bracket in exactly the same spot it was originally.

That assumes the new and old parts are exactly identical. Even the same brand of part will have small differences due to tolerances.

Just paint marker it, get the new one in close, then get it aligned. I replaced my lower arm on my truck when the ball joint failed early woth an exact same part, and on my truck all alignment is done by the upper arm, however despite not touching anything there I still had my alignment out of whack due to those various tolerances, enough that our 1000 mile vacation trip last year likely would have destroyed my front tire.

 

[littleblazer]

I've done it both ways... just get the brackets. Not worth it.

I've also marked it twice. The TB wasn't even close. The escalade when it went to the alignment shop was quote" "dead on except the tierods"

 

[stvrob]

'03 TB 4.2 LTZ, 304000+km

I've had some stability issues for awhile, and I know very little of these things. I'm looking at repairs needed to get my TB back on the road until I get something new. Finally had it to my mechanic today to diagnose a host of issues that need repairs as I don't have the time to put into it myself, and I trust him.

Anyways my front control arm bushings are toast, so I have the option to replace the control arms or just the bushings. He said he can do either, the bushings would take a little more time and effort to press in is all vs just replacing the control arms. Looking at the prices on RockAuto I don't know that it's worth the extra effort to save the cost of just replacing the whole control arms. Also we're talking all 4 front most like, uppers for sure. The right side is worse but the left side isn't great either. What would the fine folks at GMT recommend?

Wouldn't be surprised if I've got other issues in there (ball joints, swaybars), but the control arms bushings are in such bad shape that it's tough to quick diagnose the others. I'm doing up my rockauto order so would love some feedback. Thanks!

I did that job on my 06. If you have the cash you will safe a considerable amount of time if you but the upper arm and the lower bracket with the bushings already installed. I was being cheap and just bought the bushings. installing the new bushings in the upper control arm went "ok', but installing the lower bushings in the control arm bracket really sucked. If I ever do the job again, I will spend the extra money and just replace the whole bracket and the upper control arm.
I tried to do everything with a borrowed 23 piece ball joint press from the auto parts store. None of the pieces really fit right for the bushings.

 

[PProph]

Wow thanks for all the feedback on this. Quick question, if I buy the lower control arms (full part with bracket eg: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3444672&cc=1412277&jsn=3196 ), does that mean I would only need to get the ball joint for the uppers separate from the upper control arms?

 

[Mooseman]

does that mean I would only need to get the ball joint for the uppers separate from the upper control arms?

Yes, it's separate from the A-arm.

 

[PProph]

Starting to think might be better to go the full control arm replacement route if I might have to do the ball joints anyways. New question, how much am I shortchanging myself going with the cheapest economy options on RockAuto? The caveat is that for now this is my daily driver but we hope to get into a new ride this year sometime. Other caveat is that even after the new ride this will still likely see some city rippin and backroad gravel commute (50k each way or so) semi-regular. How much of a difference in quality is there from say the Ultra-Power to the Moog to the Delco?

 

[aaserv]

From my research ALL the aftermarket parts, Moog included, come from the exact same Chinese factory. Moog may put their own branded rubber covers on some parts but theyre the same junk everyone sells.

 

[Beacon]

If you want to go the cheap route, You may want to check eBay, Detroit axle sells a 10 piece kit for 249 free shipping. IDK if that changes for Canada. It's LCA assembly, UCA UBJ sway bar end links. It also comes with 14mm outter tie rods, which didn't fit mine, but we're basically free. And I bought sway bar bushings locally.

 

[Mooseman]

Another option if you're in Canada is Autoshack.com (formerly Prime Choice). They basically sell made in China parts. I wouldn't buy their brakes as they warp like potato chips, their suspension parts might be passable and probably the same as other CCC parts.

 

[PProph]

Yeah I checked out that autoshack place, I think Rock Auto still comes out cheaper on the low end stuff. I've been pricing out options and shipping on the lower control arm (full assembly) is absurd. I'm going to have a peek at my control arms if I can and perhaps just go with the bracket and the ball joint and leave the rest in if it's okay, assuming that cuts my shipping cost down. Or I might just eat it and get it all for peace of mind. Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Mooseman]

That is an option. I replaced just the brackets on the Saab but they are still heavy since they are just big chunks of cast iron. My local parts place had them, CCC house brand, and were reasonably priced. Since they are just a chunk of metal with bushings in them, they should be less likely to fail than ball joints.

 

[Mektek]

I just checked fleabay - bracket and ball joint for under $36
So if you don't have a press then that's probably the way to go.
I have a 20 ton press, so I'll try doing it myself.

 

[budwich]

I think you also need a "special adapter" to press the bushing in without damaging things.

 

[Mektek]

Funny enough I used two large sockets and a inner bearing race from a front hub as adapters. I used a bench vise to press out and a hydraulic press to press in. Be creative!