Reoccurring ABS codes

KEEBZ489

Original poster
Member
Jan 16, 2018
245
Howard Beach NY
Maybe this is better suited for the brake forum , but it will hopefully get more views and responses here

A while back I asked about a tranny clicking noise when I would slow dow and speed back up. It would disappear if I came to a complete stop and go again. Some suggested my ABS was the issue. I’ve changed the sensor once and entire front left hub twice and still C0035 comes up , I also get C0055 for the rear ( VSS ) which was also changed all with delco parts.

I haven’t been driving much but it still happens if I pull the 60a fuse , so it shouldn’t be the abs pump. I went to a tranny shop today and they took a quick drive. Said the tranny feels strong and it sounded like ABS but I need u go back when thy have a lift open. Doing research the VSS can screw with the tranny shifts possibly.

Anyone have any ideas ? I have no ABS light on unless I pull the fuse.

I am going to using the truck a lot more soon and don’t want to get stuck 2B4FBE0B-2EA9-4322-9D96-06B0CF001882.png
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
the codes "say circuits".... you only changed a portion of the "circuit" when you change out the sensors. Do some meter checks at the sensor connector back towards the system (ie. resistance readings). Do this for ALL sensors and compare the readings. Go from the results. NOTE: the same resistance test can be done at the ABS controller / connector looking towards the sensor so that you are measuring the entire path plus sensor... and can compare each measurement with each sensor).

Also read the resistance towards the sensor. The other check is to spin the wheel and measure the resulting AC voltage created... it will be small in the millivolts so careful metering is required to see anything.

The codes may be set with on a momentary loss of signals / circuit integrity so you might have to do a bit of testing to determine the problem.
 
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KEEBZ489

Original poster
Member
Jan 16, 2018
245
Howard Beach NY
But shouldn’t pulling the fuse disable the sensors ? I can drive with regular brakes until I get a chance to work on it more , but I don’t want to mess up then tranny
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
It doesn't disable the sensors, just the ABS module itself. The VSS is shared with the PCM for tranny shifting. If the sensor or its circuit isn't working, the tranny won't shift right. I've pulled the ABS fuse in the past and it didn't affect shifting.
 

KEEBZ489

Original poster
Member
Jan 16, 2018
245
Howard Beach NY
okay , now im at a loss.... i am back at work and dropped it by the local shop. got a call hours later saying they cant make the noise happen , which happens on every single drive i take.... i drove it around and nothing , back at work i popped the wifi obd in and the codes are still back ( they were erased to see if they would come back this morning
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Concerning the Replacement of the ABS Sensor-Harness... this is a very revealing Video on how the VOP (Video Original Poster) solved the ABS issue and demonstrates the use of a DMM - DVOM to examine the Alternating Current produced by the ABS Sensor Activation during Wheel Rotation:


And here is "Dr. Shock" using of the "GYMKO" Tech 2 for ABS Activation also worth watching from 12:00 onward:

 

KEEBZ489

Original poster
Member
Jan 16, 2018
245
Howard Beach NY
ill have to get my hands on a tester with millivolts , ive seen the first video before , only thing is its not my abs kicking on , it is the tranny , im more concerned with the vss C0055 cause shifting issues. a tech 2 would be nice , but im not spending that kind of money.
 
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budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
that's why you need to do some basic testing to see if basic tools give any indication of problems electrically. The front sensors goes to the abs so you can check that electrical there. The rear vss goes to the pcm and you can check that there. Look for similarities in responses to your tests.

Having said that, it is unlikely that tow different sensors them selves would pose a problem and it is more like an issue at the connectors there in which are "exposed" to the "weather".... but again, the electrical checks may show this when the results are compared. You have one "good" sensor which can serve as a bench mark.
 
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KEEBZ489

Original poster
Member
Jan 16, 2018
245
Howard Beach NY
Okay, can someone help with a part number for the rear prop shaft sensor ? It looks like the VSS but I can’t find any info on the prop sensors anywhere 8ED1CEDF-26C5-4AF8-83C8-31BD1453B456.png8ED1CEDF-26C5-4AF8-83C8-31BD1453B456.png
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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If your Transfer Case is the Model # NVG246 ... This Article in PDF may prove helpful due to the different "automotive semantics" being used to describe the components:

View Page 3 0f 4 for the Targeted Information:
 

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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
Google search for this TSB. Might be related, and if your are replacing the speed sensor it would be a good time to look at this. It invloves the wiring to the speed sensor.

05-04-21-003C

Here is one result for that TSB...

 

KEEBZ489

Original poster
Member
Jan 16, 2018
245
Howard Beach NY
thanks , the TSB had a link to a gm parts website , they had the parts diagrams i needed to see. sooooo what happened was i did a quick search on replacing the VSS when i had code C0055 , the guy in the video changed the sensor on the passenger side top , and so did i ,with the front wheels on ramps but i still have the code. last night after changing the oil i put the ramps on the passenger side to get under better , low and behold i see another sensor on the driver side...

apparently i changed the rear output shaft sensor , not the VSS.. luckily they are the same part numbers. new sensor comes tomorrow so we shall see.
 
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Mektek

Member
May 2, 2017
656
FL
same part number? Then you could have just swapped them and checked if you had a different error code............
 

KEEBZ489

Original poster
Member
Jan 16, 2018
245
Howard Beach NY
i could have but i didnt want to cause any other problems , anyway.. new vss installed , and i tested both hub sensors , ohms and millivolts all in spec.

noise is gone and driving is back to normal , but codes are still being stored..
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
If lights are off, it can take quite a few drive cycles for them to clear unless you force it to clear with an appropriate scanner.
 

KEEBZ489

Original poster
Member
Jan 16, 2018
245
Howard Beach NY
That’s what gets me. The codes have been there forever now , and with the dash command app and enhanced gm add on I can erase abs codes. If I stay under mph the codes stay off. Once I drive normal they pop up again , but I never had a dash light on unless I pulled the abs fuse under the hood.
 

KEEBZ489

Original poster
Member
Jan 16, 2018
245
Howard Beach NY
aaannnddddd its back abs kicks on and stays on even at highway speeds. sometimes if i slow down and back up it kicks off , but usuaully only when i come to a full stop in heavy traffic or once im off the expressway im at a loss
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
did you test the sensor at the abs unit / pcm or just at the sensor connector? You need to do your test at the monitoring device to get a good idea of the full electrical path.
 
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TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
uhhhhh maybe ? im not that technical whats code status ?

Trouble codes have a byte value that is set depending on the status of the DTC. There are 8 levels defined. Some scanners will display the status.

Some examples are "Current", meaning the fault is currently occurring. This does not mean the service engine light is on. For example my 02 has an issue with the rear wiper. The fault is current but this trouble code doesn't turn on a service light.

The check engine lught is turned on for codes with the "MIL" status. Means that code has requested the Maintenance Indicator Light be turned on.

An "Old" status is for a DTC which has in the past requested the MIL be turned on but is no no longer doing so.

A "History" status is a code that has freeze frame data available.

A "Pending" code is a DTC that has triggered but has not reached the threshold for turning on the check engine (MIL) light yet. Many codes require the issue to occur twice on consecutive drive cycles before turning on the check engine light.

A DTC can have multiple status levels at once. Quite common actually. A code can be Current, MIL, and History all at the same time.
 

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
uhhhhh maybe ? im not that technical whats code status ?

What sort of scanner are you using? I see you mentioned a wifi obd adapter, does this mean you use an iPhone? There is an Android app that can pull codes of a certain status but I am not aware of an iPhone app that does so.

It can also be done manually but that is a technical endeavor.
 

KEEBZ489

Original poster
Member
Jan 16, 2018
245
Howard Beach NY
i tried getting to the sensor but its hard with jack stands and laying on my back, they put it in such a shitty spot.


and i have an innova 3160g and use the dash command app from autometer with a veepeak BLE scanner , i use to use the mini wifi one but always had problems connecting

i can see stored , pending etc
 

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
i can see stored , pending etc

"Stored" is a word that the Innova is using but is not a defined status code so it leaves the user not knowing what the true status is! All codes are "stored"!! If they weren't then they couldn't be read! It could mean an OLD code, a HISTORY code, or a CURRENT code or some unknown comination of these! This is why I prefer to use other means of code retrieval.

The Android App Car Gauge Pro has without a doubt a clunky interface but it allows the user to retrieve codes by the particular status level giving more diagnostic control to the user.
 

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