Rebuilding the front end, what else should I consider replacing?

[Greg Christmas]

I posted this over on the off road forum but probably should have posted it here first. I've had my '02 Envoy for a year and a half, it now has 107,000 miles. Replacing the wheel hubs & CV drive shafts have been on my to-do list, the passenger hub is starting to whine so I need to get these parts and git'er done.
My question is while I have the front end torn apart, what else would you replace? Struts, upper ball joints & sway bar links are new. I'm going to install new brake dust shields, rotors & pads. calipers seem OK but with 16 years maybe they should get on the list. Also going to install new lower control arm / lower ball joint assembly. I just don't want to put old parts back on and regret it later. Any input from your experience is greatly appreciated! I did get a suggestion to go through the 4WD disconnect, yep probably should plan on that. Steering is tight but might be good to replace the tie rod ends. What about seals? Thanks in advance!

 

[xavierny25]

Welcome to the Nation

I saw you mention sway bar links are new so I'd add sway bar bushings aswell to that list. Make sure you get the right ones according to the size of your bar, there are different ones out there.

If the seals ain't leaking leave them be. Just check fluid levels and be sure to change fluid as necessary. @Mooseman has all the manuals and other goodies in his signature if and when you need them and of course we are always here to help.

Edit: I'd also check the upper control arms while your there and since you'll be doing lowers and going to need an alignment once those are done. Replacing the uppers is easy and inexpensive compared to some other things.

 

[Mooseman]

Don't bother with the dust shields. Completely useless and a waste of money. Just take them off.

Any particular reason why you're changing the CV shafts? At 107k miles, they should still be good unless the boots are damaged. Same for the calipers. Unless they have problems, you should just leave them.

You should inspect the disconnect. Worth it to take it apart, clean, inspect and repack with grease as per this write-up at ORTB:
http://offroadtb.com/4wd-disconnect-rebuild/

Link to manuals is in my signature.

 

[TollKeeper]

I agree with @Mooseman , unless the boots are busted open, dont replace the CV joints just because you are in there. Mine are sitting at 185k miles now, and are factory. and there are guys on this forum that I know have a LOT more miles on theres.

 

[Greg Christmas]

Thanks for the pointers especially to leave the CV axles alone. I knew the shocks & struts were shot on this truck when I bought it and have been working on getting the suspension tighter. I did replace front & rear sway bar bushings & end links which didn't do much. I found a badly worn out passenger side upper ball joint when I replaced the struts and replacing both upper balls made a big difference. I still get the squeaks which is most likely the lower control arm bushings, but I also hear squeaks in the rear when I back up. I'll add the upper control arms to the list and scratch the CV shafts & calipers.

 

[16vcabman]

I disagree about the calipers. I would replace. The slides for the pads wear, the Pistons can get sticky, pins and the area they move can rust up. You will be amazed how much faster the calipers respond after you replace them. You figure the age of the car, the rust belt, it makes a difference.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

The stock cv are best you can get so keep them as long as possible

 

[Ilikemy3s]

Since everything is apart, perhaps look at the rubber part of the brake line that goes to the caliper. Keep in mind you will have to have the brake fluid flushed.

 

[Mooseman]

Regardless, it wouldn't be a bad idea to flush out the braking system with fresh fluid if its never been changed.

 

[Greg Christmas]

Regardless, it wouldn't be a bad idea to flush out the braking system with fresh fluid if its never been changed.

Thanks for the tip, I bled the brake system completely when I replaced the rear brake drum/rotors, pads, dust shield & parking brake assembly, started with the passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. The front brakes are relatively new so I've left them alone for now.

 

[Greg Christmas]

Don't bother with the dust shields. Completely useless and a waste of money. Just take them off.

Any particular reason why you're changing the CV shafts? At 107k miles, they should still be good unless the boots are damaged. Same for the calipers. Unless they have problems, you should just leave them.

You should inspect the disconnect. Worth it to take it apart, clean, inspect and repack with grease as per this write-up at ORTB:
http://offroadtb.com/4wd-disconnect-rebuild/

Link to manuals is in my signature.

update, based off all the advise, I left the cv axles alone. The reason I was going to replace is they kept puking grease, but from info here and the "other side" I installed new hose clamps and had had zero issues with axle grease.

 

[Greg Christmas]

I disagree about the calipers. I would replace. The slides for the pads wear, the Pistons can get sticky, pins and the area they move can rust up. You will be amazed how much faster the calipers respond after you replace them. You figure the age of the car, the rust belt, it makes a difference.

I did replace the calipers and am VERY HAPPY that I did, the old calipers were loose & sloppy. The only problem I had was getting the new caliper open enough to fit new pads over new rotors, actually took quite a lot of effort. With new brakes & Rotors the front is silky smooth.

 

[Brian K]

Did you use drilled and slotted rotors or just regular ones? I need to do my brakes (2nd time - 09 with 150K) and am thinking RockAuto e-coated regular ones or perhaps high carbon from the local parts store. Alot of talk suggests the Drilled & Slotted just wear out the pads faster and don't really perform any better.

 

[Mooseman]

Lots of threads on the subject and the overall majority say they're junk. If rust is a concern, some quality coated rotors is the way to go. ACDelco Advantage coated rotors look good. I bought a set of the bigger SS rotors and look really good (haven't installed them yet).

 

[Maverick6587]

I agree with Mooseman. I would get the SS brakes and rotors so you can use SS brakes. I installed them and there is a very noticeable increase in braking power.

There will be about a 1/2" of the rotor that is not touched by the brake pads. That is normal and that is how the SS trailblazer rotors look as well.

 

[Mooseman]

Just remember that you need the SS brake caliper brackets and that you must use 17"+ wheels if you convert to the bigger rotors.