Rear Wheel Hub Assembly Replacement

NelliM60

Original poster
Member
May 9, 2016
40
Atlantic City, New Jersey
Hey guys,
Been a while since I've reached out but I lost my '04 TB LS in a bad accident. Loved that truck, put lots of money into her. Well, I recently purchased another one, an '03 TB LTZ, it is nice with a few extra amenities but wow she needs her factory suspension parts, wheel hubs, and u-joint replaced and the muffler pipe is rattling every time I put her in reverse from a loose or failing mount fastener. People ask why I bought her with all those problems, my answer is simple: once I finish replacing all her parts myself, no one will appreciate that truck more than I will. So anyway here's my question. Is the procedure for replacing the rear wheel hubs the same as replacing the fronts? I look for videos and all I keep finding are videos on replacing the axle bearing rings (a helluva project, btw). I plan to replace all 4 hubs together. I'd replaced the front wheel bearing assembly on my old truck so I pretty much remember all the steps to that, I just want to know if it's the same in doing the rears. Thanks guys and happy holidays.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
There are no rear wheel hubs...

It would be axle bearing in the rear if they really need replaced
 

NelliM60

Original poster
Member
May 9, 2016
40
Atlantic City, New Jersey
Oh man, that means I gotta do that big job? I will have somebody examine it first. It does have high milage 156K on the truck. Maybe I should watch the while video. Thanks HTZ.
 
Last edited:

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
They rarely need replaced unless you see fluid running out, but you are not really high mileage at 156K on this platform.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
When they fail, it takes out the axle at the same time wearing a groove into it. Totally blows when that happens as you must replace the whole axle shaft. Usually it's the seal that goes that will allow the oil to leak onto the brakes. Take the brakes off and inspect behind the axle flange. If dry, leave it alone.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Its likely cheaper and easier to swap in an entire axle assembly. That is 4 bolts on u-joint straps and two on shocks and 4 on control arms and you are done, badabing badaboom

edit: oh yeah...a couple on the swaybar if you bother with that waste of space since it really does nothing.
 

NelliM60

Original poster
Member
May 9, 2016
40
Atlantic City, New Jersey
Sounds good. The U-joint on the rear driveshaft is shot to hell anyway. I just ordered a new one a couple of days ago. I'm thinking of shopping for new driveshaft (front & rear) but my brother says it's not really necessary because they are practically indestructible. I am just eager to replace a lot of her factory parts.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
He is right. You would just be tossing money away on driveshafts. I beat the snot out of my truck and bounce it of trails and rocks and still am using factory driveshafts.
 

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