re learn???

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Mooseman

Moderator
Depends on which parts. Some do, some don't.
 
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colecole2020

colecole2020

Member
variable valve timing solenoid, crankshaft position sensor, both O2 sensors, fuel pump relay, fuel pump, part of the fuel line, air filter, spark plugs, new battery, oil change.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Only the crank sensor needs a re-learn. It can also be done at an independent shop that has an advanced scan tool, not just the dealer.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Just ask the shop if they can do a CASE relearn. You would have to drive it there and it has to be running. Not having this done would not prevent it from running.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Check your other thread I replied in.
 

Maverick6587

Silver Supporter
Do you or do you have a friend that has a scanner to read codes? A crank no start should have a live or history code that could point you in the right direction. I'm betting that a CASE relearn would fix the problem.

Most shops (in my area) charge $100 or so to do a relearn. You could also look into a mobile mechanic, that should have an advance enough scanner to do the relearn. Or at least get the codes for you.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
I'm betting that a CASE relearn would fix the problem.
Sorry but no since it MUST be running and able to go to wide open throttle to do the relearn.

To me, this sounds more like a fuelling problem.

@colecole2020 , try starting the engine with starting fluid. If it starts, it's a fuel problem.
 

Maverick6587

Silver Supporter
@Mooseman AH. I remember that now that you mention the wide open throttle. I was thinking the Tech2 would just reset it by the click of a button. I've only done one Tech 2 relearn, so it had slipped my mind. Thank you for the correction though.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Codes?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Nothing really except the CEL and code for it. If it's not giving a code for it, you don't really need it.
 

budwich

Well-Known Member
I would suggest going back to basics, with amount of work that you have to, checking the "no start conditions" which means "fuel, spark, air". Does anything happen when you provide "quick start" spray? If not, check for spark. Further, again with your work around timing, you should check compression on a couple of cylinders to confirm "mechanical integrity". Go from the results.
 

christo829

Well-Known Member
Was the truck actually running before you replaced all these parts?

As budwich said, go back to basics. When you turn the key to Run, do you hear the fuel pump prime up for about 2 seconds? You might need to have someone back by the fuel tank to hear it. If you don't hear that, the the most likely suspects are the fuel pump itself or the fuel pump relay. Could also be the ignition switch or the wiring to the fuel pump. If the truck was running before you replaced all these parts, then start looking at what you changed out. It's always possible to have parts be bad off the shelf. If it was *not* running, then you may have missed the actual cause.

If the fuel pump is running, make sure you have proper fuel pressure. If you do, then check for spark.
If the squirt of starter fluid budwich suggests above gets your truck going for a few seconds, then you have spark. Those two things should get your truck running, unless the fuel is not being delivered to the injectors. A failure at that level should be throwing a code.

Let's start there and see if we can narrow down the problem.

Good Luck!

Chris
 

budwich

Well-Known Member
it would appear from the other recent thread, that this thread should be closed as the vehicle appears to be now running ... after some mechanic attention.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Yeah, just to not confuse between the two threads, I'm closing this one. She did ask if it might need a CASE relearn to which I provided and answer.
 
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