Re-Drill Tahoe Wheels

cbad760

Original poster
Member
Jul 26, 2019
3
California
Longtime lurker, first time poster so if I screw up please don't scorch me.

I had the same problem as most people, the 16" stock wheels with the high offset have that undesirable minivan look, but the bolt pattern is a nuisance to deal with without getting into the bling-bling wheels that attract the car thieves. I wanted to keep a factory-like appearance and get less offset. I use the truck for a lot of highway driving and only rarely drive on unpaved roads so I don't need a lift or an aggressive tire. I still need it to handle in wet/dry highway conditions.

Stock offset for ours is 50mm, center bore on the wheel is 78mm. Popular spacers put these wheels 1.25" - 1.5" and some people don't like the poke in the fronts that the 1.5" spacers provide. A good set of spacers is $250-$300.

Stock offset on the Tahoe/Suburban/Silverado wheels is mostly 31mm-33mm, so with a 7.5" width that puts the outer face of the wheel very nearly even with what a 1.25" spacer would to with a stock 7" wide TB wheel. They also have the same 78mm center bore. That's how I knew there would be enough face to hold the smaller bolt pattern.

So I considered the less popular option of picking up a set of Tahoe alloys from the same generation as my TB so that the look would more/less fit without getting into the try-hard category, and found a good wheel machiner who specialized in re-drilling the bolt patterns, drill-n-fill, and wheel repair. I live in the San Diego area so I went with one of the local vendors that had good reviews.

It looks like they pressed in a new insert and drilled it for our pattern, so it's really not obvious unless you look closely. I bought a set of very streetable ATs by Hankook at 265/65/17 and the combo fits the stock suspension with zero rub. Call me crazy, but I think GM should have used this bolt pattern and wheels in the first place. I can't put the center cap that goes with these alloys so I'm probably just going to run them without a cap. Clean up and paint my hubs and maybe swap the open lugs for covered lugs and leave it alone.

Cost for the wheels via craiglist was $100 for all 4, cost of the redrill for all 4 wheels was $160. I've got a set of the Bilstein 5100s on order 'cause I needed new shocks anyway so I'm just going to lift the front to level it with the stock height in the rear and be done with it. Obviously this setup isn't for most people on this forum but it works for me. YMMV
 

Attachments

  • Before.jpeg
    Before.jpeg
    124 KB · Views: 56
  • After.jpeg
    After.jpeg
    93.1 KB · Views: 62
  • closeup.jpeg
    closeup.jpeg
    115.6 KB · Views: 61
  • oblique.jpeg
    oblique.jpeg
    120.4 KB · Views: 54

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,681
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Interesting idea you came up with, glad it worked out the way you wanted it. :thumbsup:

I also lifted my front end a couple inches to match the rear, and am much happier with it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: paul2005tb

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
You're not crazy. I have said many times before that GM should have stuck with the same bolt pattern they use on every other 6 lug they make. I blame Isuzu for the screwball bolt pattern!
 

cbad760

Original poster
Member
Jul 26, 2019
3
California
Actually, I misspoke about the 6x5.5 offsets. The 7.5" wide versions come in with 31mm offsets, but the wider wheels come in 24mm and 27mm offsets. I guess my point is that if you can find a factory wheel you like with a covered hub that's flat you might be able to get those on the cheap and use them without any spacers, adapters or cutting studs. It solves the spare problem because you haven't changed the studs on your rig.

I looked around but didn't notice anyone mention it before, so here goes. Apologies in advance if I'm stating the obvious. The online tool I used to suss out which wheels and rims and offsets to use is at "willtheyfit.com", which has a nice little before/after graphic and a breakdown of what the different tire sizes you're comparing do in height, width, ride height, arch gap, etc. It's all in metric so users will have to deal with that, but you also can do things like account for wheel spacers or adapters with the wheels you're using to see what the difference does. Being able to visualize what you're trying to do takes most of the guesswork out of it.

For metric conversions I've been using the calculator at "Worldwidemetric.com"

Just tryin' to be helpful.
 

Attachments

  • wtf1.JPG
    wtf1.JPG
    87.3 KB · Views: 7
  • wtf3.JPG
    wtf3.JPG
    52.3 KB · Views: 7
  • wtf2.JPG
    wtf2.JPG
    44.9 KB · Views: 6
Last edited:

paul2005tb

Member
Nov 26, 2014
299
Massachusetts
Makes me wonder if I could do something similar with my hubs. Better have a good machine shop to find dead center.
 

CVTOM

Member
Jan 30, 2020
1
San Doego
Longtime lurker, first time poster so if I screw up please don't scorch me.

I had the same problem as most people, the 16" stock wheels with the high offset have that undesirable minivan look, but the bolt pattern is a nuisance to deal with without getting into the bling-bling wheels that attract the car thieves. I wanted to keep a factory-like appearance and get less offset. I use the truck for a lot of highway driving and only rarely drive on unpaved roads so I don't need a lift or an aggressive tire. I still need it to handle in wet/dry highway conditions.

Stock offset for ours is 50mm, center bore on the wheel is 78mm. Popular spacers put these wheels 1.25" - 1.5" and some people don't like the poke in the fronts that the 1.5" spacers provide. A good set of spacers is $250-$300.

Stock offset on the Tahoe/Suburban/Silverado wheels is mostly 31mm-33mm, so with a 7.5" width that puts the outer face of the wheel very nearly even with what a 1.25" spacer would to with a stock 7" wide TB wheel. They also have the same 78mm center bore. That's how I knew there would be enough face to hold the smaller bolt pattern.

So I considered the less popular option of picking up a set of Tahoe alloys from the same generation as my TB so that the look would more/less fit without getting into the try-hard category, and found a good wheel machiner who specialized in re-drilling the bolt patterns, drill-n-fill, and wheel repair. I live in the San Diego area so I went with one of the local vendors that had good reviews.

It looks like they pressed in a new insert and drilled it for our pattern, so it's really not obvious unless you look closely. I bought a set of very streetable ATs by Hankook at 265/65/17 and the combo fits the stock suspension with zero rub. Call me crazy, but I think GM should have used this bolt pattern and wheels in the first place. I can't put the center cap that goes with these alloys so I'm probably just going to run them without a cap. Clean up and paint my hubs and maybe swap the open lugs for covered lugs and leave it alone.

Cost for the wheels via craiglist was $100 for all 4, cost of the redrill for all 4 wheels was $160. I've got a set of the Bilstein 5100s on order 'cause I needed new shocks anyway so I'm just going to lift the front to level it with the stock height in the rear and be done with it. Obviously this setup isn't for most people on this forum but it works for me. YMMV
Who did you find to drill the wheels
 

mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Oct 22, 2015
7,709
Tampa Bay Area
I was looking at those Modified Tahoe-to-Trailblazer Wheels, noting that with the new, over-sized openings, if no Common Wheel Lug Covers will fit and hold anymore, perhaps a Custom Set of Wheel Hub Covers could be made by using the Spare Wheel-Tire as a 'Mold'.

Assuming ALL (5) Wheels have been Custom Modified for use, this Project becomes possible after choosing from the many Colored Epoxy Resin Kits available on Amazon to create a Unique Set of (4) Attractive Wheel Lug Center Covers that would handsomely offset those Good Looking Tahoe Wheels after going to so much trouble to get them converted by a Machinist:

https://www.amazon.com/colored-epoxy-resin/s?k=colored+epoxy+resin&tag=elightbars-20

These are the Steps that would be necessary to produce them with Patience, Accuracy and Precision:

(1) Set the Spare Wheel Facing UP on a Stable, Waist High Platform.
(2) Use a Carpenter’s Bubble Level to Square Up & Adjust the Spare Wheel to be Perfectly Level.
(3) Select your Choice of (4) Matching Chevrolet Emblems to be inlaid into the New Covers.
(4) Arrange the Centered Emblems at the Proper Depth to be Slightly Above the Epoxy Pour Line).
(5) Select the Proper Colors and Ratios of the Epoxy Resin vs. Hardener required for all (4) Covers.
(6) Use some Silicone Sealer to In-Set a Sacrificial Set of After Market Acorn Style Lug Nuts and make them all Water Tight.
(7) Seal up any Holes in the Hub Cavity and Lug Nuts with Silicone and Fill It with Water from a Measured Pyrex Container.
(8) Note the VOLUME of the Water it takes to Fill that Space and use THAT measure for equally dividing the Two Part Mixture amounts.
(9) Dry Off and Coat the Inside of the Hub's Hollow Space evenly with an Oil Spray to ensure the the Epoxy Covers can later “Pop Loose”.
(10) Mix the Chosen Colored Epoxy Resin & Hardener and Carefully Pour the Resin into the Hub Space (avoid aerating Bubbles into the Mixture). Cover the Wheel Hub with a Cardboard Box to prevent Dust settling into the Resin.
(11) Allow the Colored Resin to Set Up and Harden Overnight… Then Invert the Wheel.
(12) Tap Lightly and Evenly on the in-dwelling Acorn Lug Nuts positions from behind to free the Hard Covers from the “Spare Wheel Tire Mold”.
(14) Use a Dremel Tool and Razor Blades to Clean and Dress up the Margins and internal Lug Insert Points and then create (3) Leverage Release Points for a Flat-Blade Screw Driver positioned 120 Degrees apart on the Outside Diameter of each Hub Cover. Test Fit each one and adjust accordingly.

Done!
 
Last edited:

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,317
Posts
637,873
Members
18,518
Latest member
Firebaugh86