ran transmission fluid completely out, truck died and wont start

5tjss

Original poster
Member
May 19, 2022
14
Loco, Oklahoma
Hello and thanks for anyone who responds, this is my first post, first ever on the internet period. The background:

I had an overheat event (freak arctic temps once last year and serpentine belt froze solid, just popped off apparently). There was snow, ice and idiots on the road so my attention was there until the multiple lights came on telling me everything the belt touches was not doing well. The temp gauge was pegged. Pulled over immediately and killed it, but the head warped enough to let those nefarious exhaust gases into the coolant system, but only when it switches to variable timing and 10:1 compression on exhaust side, which is around 1500 RPM. I tried not exceeding this RPM, it can't be done. Until I can afford the 3 grand or so to fix it right, I've been hobbling along by 1) driving very easy on it, 2) watching for that temp gauge to move past 210, then refilling coolant system from the portable cistern I've come to view as standard gear. The pressure of course pushes the coolant out the overflow line on the overflow tank after the 1500 RPM (I rigged up a way to catch that, because it's damn expensive stuff) but I got a couple air release valves with adjustable pressure switches to vent some of the gases early, so I've extended the reach considerably (more pics). But the radiator (plastic & aluminum???) doesn't take the abuse well, and every few months I have to rebuild it (see attached pics). After the second one purchased, this is the way I came up with to stop the wallet leak. Ok, the current sitrep:

I had the radiator out (as pic'd) and had to move the truck a few feet (dad lives here too, old & grouchy and I just wanted to accomodate him so the grouching would cease, so wasn't thinking clearly). I figure I could do that, run less than 10 seconds, without issue. WRONG. I forgot about the damn tranny lines, so in a few seconds, all the tranny fluid was all over the shop floor, and the truck died. It has not run since. I have an OBDPro Scantool and a laptop running ProScan 4.0 (more pics), but I've never used any of these tools before, and so before I do anything, I'd like to hear some advice from some folks who actually know stuff. I just learn as I go, and I've got the feeling there's a sensor for that tranny fluid's pressure that told the PCM to shut 'er down. That's all foreign territory for me.

Thank you for taking the time....
 

Attachments

  • 20220519_195856.jpg
    20220519_195856.jpg
    346.3 KB · Views: 14
  • 20220519_195924.jpg
    20220519_195924.jpg
    301.2 KB · Views: 15
  • 20220421_133856.jpg
    20220421_133856.jpg
    429.9 KB · Views: 14
  • 20211229_200103.jpg
    20211229_200103.jpg
    468.7 KB · Views: 13
  • 20211229_195923.jpg
    20211229_195923.jpg
    494.2 KB · Views: 13
  • 20220519_200027.jpg
    20220519_200027.jpg
    669.4 KB · Views: 16

NJTB

Member
Aug 27, 2012
612
Flemington, NJ
I don't know of any sensors in the trans that will tell the engine to shut down. Start with making sure it's getting spark/fuel and go from there.
You have a bunch of fixin to do.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 5tjss

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Your tranny running dry has nothing to do with the engine not wanting to start. I had that happen to me while driving when the aux tranny cooler hose blew off in -30c. Engine kept running and restarted with no issues. Refilled it after reconnecting the hose and all was well.

So how does it not start? Does it crank or not? The answer will dictate which path you will have to follow:

No Crank, Like Attempting To Start In Drive
SOLVED!-04 Trailblazer LT 4.2 L no crank - no start
No Start, Multiple U1000 codes, Class 2 Serial Communication Problem


Cranks but won't start
 

5tjss

Original poster
Member
May 19, 2022
14
Loco, Oklahoma
Thanks for the quick responses. It turns over (cranks) just won't fire up. The 'air-fuel-spark' triage was my chosen starting point, just thought I would post first and see if the OBD gear might be able to shave off the steps and not only nail down which of the 3, but also reveal WHY? Maybe it's just a coincidence on the timing with the tranny fluid purge, seemed connected but that's why I asked.

One other note: the battery was unhooked for a couple days, then because I didn't quite have my shit together during the re-install of the radiator, it got connected and disconnected 4 or 5 times within a short period of time. I discovered during researching this issue that this is not good for the PCM modules. Possible I fried it doing that?

I will begin the troubleshooting steps and report back.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mooseman

5tjss

Original poster
Member
May 19, 2022
14
Loco, Oklahoma
Your tranny running dry has nothing to do with the engine not wanting to start. I had that happen to me while driving when the aux tranny cooler hose blew off in -30c. Engine kept running and restarted with no issues. Refilled it after reconnecting the hose and all was well.

So how does it not start? Does it crank or not? The answer will dictate which path you will have to follow:

No Crank, Like Attempting To Start In Drive
SOLVED!-04 Trailblazer LT 4.2 L no crank - no start
No Start, Multiple U1000 codes, Class 2 Serial Communication Problem


Cranks but won't start
Is there a section for "really dumb mistakes"? I don't want to tell on myself with this one, but y'all took the time to stop by and help, so I gotta provide closure.

When I had the radiator out, I plugged certain openings with these white shop rags, to keep foreign material out (2 other shop users around here too, sometimes doing things that produce clouds of dust, etc, sometimes without a heads-up) and when I started the engine to pull up a few feet, this one got sucked up where that brass flap is waaaayyyy back in there. And so, gentlemen, the truck fired right up once the obstruction was removed.

Somebody please put my name in for this year's Forrest Gump Award.

That is all.
 

Attachments

  • 20220520_204236.jpg
    20220520_204236.jpg
    578 KB · Views: 6
  • 20220520_204212.jpg
    20220520_204212.jpg
    312.4 KB · Views: 6

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Admitting your mistakes is the better part of valour (or something like that) and others can learn from them.
 

5tjss

Original poster
Member
May 19, 2022
14
Loco, Oklahoma
Amen to that.

It's a testament to taking on too much at once, being tired all the time, and the poor decision making that results if that goes on too long. I used to be a pretty decent mechanic in the Army, but then I started having more money to buy trucks that don't need anything fixed, you just get in and drive (it's hard to believe, but that does exist), and some years passed without the need for a wrench turned. Stuff got more complex since the 90's.
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,019
Sucking a rag into the throttle body would certainly stop it from starting.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 5tjss and Redbeard

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Ditto, more than once 😇
 

5tjss

Original poster
Member
May 19, 2022
14
Loco, Oklahoma
This morning I noticed the rag wouldn't straighten out, the "bunched" part had to be pulled apart with some force. Turns out the rag is 100% cotton and it had melted (see pics). Just turning it over (crank no start) produced that much heat???

And now I'm a little concerned as to whether some debris from the rag (either fiber clumps or MELTED fiber clumps which would be rock hard like concrete) may have gone for the ride on down into the cylinders and valves, and whether that would be able to cause any serious damage. Mooseman, you are clearly quite familiar with this particular engine. Any thoughts on that?

In general, I think we all know foreign material down the trucks windpipe = not good for truck. Guys around here I know are of the opinion it's nothing to worry about, however, all are shadetree harbor freight toolin good dudes but not experienced trained mechanics so I'm not at ease yet and have NOT started and driven the truck, and won't, until I get some additional opinions or guidance. So anyone who has something on that, please drop it here, it will be much appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • 20220521_123301.jpg
    20220521_123301.jpg
    377.1 KB · Views: 7
  • 20220521_123217.jpg
    20220521_123217.jpg
    360.8 KB · Views: 7

5tjss

Original poster
Member
May 19, 2022
14
Loco, Oklahoma
Usually we read about these stories on Rock Auto's monthly newsletters under "Repair Mistakes & Blunders". If we are honest with ourselves we all have done stupid stuff like these before, at least I know I have.
Redbeard, Rock Auto had a good year, and I've got a refrigerator magnet collection to prove it (see pics - the charger is my personal fav). Three radiators to start with, because Aaron didn't understand the real issue, because Aaron assumed it was just another straight six truck engine. I had never even heard of a head gasket leak that went the other direction, much less variable timing and the high compression ratio, etc. So after buying Dex coolant a few times at 20 bucks a pop and seeing it fly out the overflow line on the reservoir at seemingly random times, Genius decided to plug that overflow line off temporarily, thinking it was some kind of vacuum line problem not letting the reserve return when the cap valve re-opened. The result was basically an I.E.D. and when it exploded, I had to hunt down and remove shrapnel from the surroundings, and toss the fan shroud because it took most of it and was literally ripped in half. Lot of new parts from that learning experience...

1) New Radiator
2) New Upper & Lower Hoses
3) New Fan Shroud
4) New Water Pump / Fan Clutch Combo
5) New Coolant Reservoir (due to pressure related 'balooning' of previous reservoir)
6) New Radiator Cap
7) New Serpentine Belt
8) Both Headlamps and Signal Lamps each side
9) New Windshield Washer Pump
10) New Front Grill (grille was good, but it snapped the clips off)
8) Various Electrical Wiring due to shielding loss from the aforementioned shrapnel

Strangely, there was ZERO damage to the A/C condenser. I'm not sure if that was a genuine christmas miracle, some vector-force physics stuff that only a rocket scientist would understand, or if the manufacturer just made the condenser with good material and workmanship. I noticed THAT isn't made of any plastic parts.

Radiator number 2 is another story for another time....

I hadn't seen that newsletter, but I'll definitely check it out. Thanks for the info.
 

Attachments

  • 20220521_130424.jpg
    20220521_130424.jpg
    482.8 KB · Views: 4
  • 20220521_130544.jpg
    20220521_130544.jpg
    344.4 KB · Views: 4

5tjss

Original poster
Member
May 19, 2022
14
Loco, Oklahoma
Anyone that has ever wrenched on a vehicle has at least one. The key difference here in this forum is that we did it ourselves as opposed to having paid some else to do it.

Might even be an interesting forum topic.
I like to learn from other people's mistakes when possible. That does sound like a good idea, I would be a regular reader on that one.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Redbeard

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
I wouldn't worry about the ingested rag. Cotton doesn't melt, it burns. If it melted, then it's either synthetic or a blend. I also don't understand where it would have gotten the heat from. :confused:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Redbeard

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,273
Posts
637,499
Members
18,472
Latest member
MissCrutcher

Members Online