Hello and thanks for anyone who responds, this is my first post, first ever on the internet period. The background:
I had an overheat event (freak arctic temps once last year and serpentine belt froze solid, just popped off apparently). There was snow, ice and idiots on the road so my attention was there until the multiple lights came on telling me everything the belt touches was not doing well. The temp gauge was pegged. Pulled over immediately and killed it, but the head warped enough to let those nefarious exhaust gases into the coolant system, but only when it switches to variable timing and 10:1 compression on exhaust side, which is around 1500 RPM. I tried not exceeding this RPM, it can't be done. Until I can afford the 3 grand or so to fix it right, I've been hobbling along by 1) driving very easy on it, 2) watching for that temp gauge to move past 210, then refilling coolant system from the portable cistern I've come to view as standard gear. The pressure of course pushes the coolant out the overflow line on the overflow tank after the 1500 RPM (I rigged up a way to catch that, because it's damn expensive stuff) but I got a couple air release valves with adjustable pressure switches to vent some of the gases early, so I've extended the reach considerably (more pics). But the radiator (plastic & aluminum???) doesn't take the abuse well, and every few months I have to rebuild it (see attached pics). After the second one purchased, this is the way I came up with to stop the wallet leak. Ok, the current sitrep:
I had the radiator out (as pic'd) and had to move the truck a few feet (dad lives here too, old & grouchy and I just wanted to accomodate him so the grouching would cease, so wasn't thinking clearly). I figure I could do that, run less than 10 seconds, without issue. WRONG. I forgot about the damn tranny lines, so in a few seconds, all the tranny fluid was all over the shop floor, and the truck died. It has not run since. I have an OBDPro Scantool and a laptop running ProScan 4.0 (more pics), but I've never used any of these tools before, and so before I do anything, I'd like to hear some advice from some folks who actually know stuff. I just learn as I go, and I've got the feeling there's a sensor for that tranny fluid's pressure that told the PCM to shut 'er down. That's all foreign territory for me.
Thank you for taking the time....
I had an overheat event (freak arctic temps once last year and serpentine belt froze solid, just popped off apparently). There was snow, ice and idiots on the road so my attention was there until the multiple lights came on telling me everything the belt touches was not doing well. The temp gauge was pegged. Pulled over immediately and killed it, but the head warped enough to let those nefarious exhaust gases into the coolant system, but only when it switches to variable timing and 10:1 compression on exhaust side, which is around 1500 RPM. I tried not exceeding this RPM, it can't be done. Until I can afford the 3 grand or so to fix it right, I've been hobbling along by 1) driving very easy on it, 2) watching for that temp gauge to move past 210, then refilling coolant system from the portable cistern I've come to view as standard gear. The pressure of course pushes the coolant out the overflow line on the overflow tank after the 1500 RPM (I rigged up a way to catch that, because it's damn expensive stuff) but I got a couple air release valves with adjustable pressure switches to vent some of the gases early, so I've extended the reach considerably (more pics). But the radiator (plastic & aluminum???) doesn't take the abuse well, and every few months I have to rebuild it (see attached pics). After the second one purchased, this is the way I came up with to stop the wallet leak. Ok, the current sitrep:
I had the radiator out (as pic'd) and had to move the truck a few feet (dad lives here too, old & grouchy and I just wanted to accomodate him so the grouching would cease, so wasn't thinking clearly). I figure I could do that, run less than 10 seconds, without issue. WRONG. I forgot about the damn tranny lines, so in a few seconds, all the tranny fluid was all over the shop floor, and the truck died. It has not run since. I have an OBDPro Scantool and a laptop running ProScan 4.0 (more pics), but I've never used any of these tools before, and so before I do anything, I'd like to hear some advice from some folks who actually know stuff. I just learn as I go, and I've got the feeling there's a sensor for that tranny fluid's pressure that told the PCM to shut 'er down. That's all foreign territory for me.
Thank you for taking the time....