SOLVED! Radiator leak

[CajunWon]

Have a small/slow radiator leak where the plastic meets the lower radiator seam. It's real slow, just enough to leave a softball size wet spot on driveway. Thinking a band-aid approach could get me through the winter.
Anyone have experience with Bar's Leaks Liquid Aluminum Stop Leak?

 

[m.mcmillen]

Here's my experience:

Someone brought me a Nissan Sentra because it was running hot. Coolant was not circulating at all. Pulled the head off and found plugged up coolant passages. Maybe they used more than one dose of the stuff, I'm not sure. I'm always of the opinion to not bandaid anything and just fix it.

 

[Eric04]

Not the first I've heard of the additives doing more harm than good. It's not as though they are confined to the radiator once added. Any shortcuts at best only prolong the inevitable need to replace the radiator.

 

[Mounce]

Vote #3 for doing it right the first time and avoiding a potentially costly bandaid.

 

[Mooseman]

Another vote against these kinds of additives. BIL had no heat because of a plugged heater core caused by this stuff. Do it once, do it right. Replace the rad.

 

[CajunWon]

Which radiator? -couldn't find the Rockauto oem as suggested in the faq writeup but that was for the I6, mine is 2006 Envoy 5.3.

Amazon has AC Delco 21506 $164
Amazon has Klimoto (Chinese?) brand $87
Autozone Duralast C2563 $187
(guess that Duralast and Klimoto are the same radiator)
Summitracing has Denso 221-9116 $121


Amazon has a dozen others as well. I have a spare power steering cooler I could use instead of the internal radiator tranny cooler, but might use this as an additional downstream cooler-mount it under my power steering cooler.

 

[TollKeeper]

I went with Advance Auto Parts for the radiator on my V8 Envoy. Lifetime warranty, and if it does fail, I can actually use the warranty, unlike the Amazon Brands. 200 Bucks for the CarQuest brand. You could probably get them to pricematch the Autozone one if it has the same warranty.

 

[Mooseman]

I had a Chinese branded rad in my 02 for a number of years and no issues here. It was called Prime Choice. Doesn't look like they have them for the V8 though.

 

[Eric04]

I replaced a radiator in a Tahoe 5.3L a year ago for someone and they bought the Carquest from Advance. Build quality looked good and all the fittings were spot on. I'd buy one from them the next time I need one. Advance also runs discounts for online orders all the time so you should get a good price too.

 

[CajunWon]

Thanks, no garage, it's raining, 40*F, not leaking profusely. I'll just add coolant as needed, maybe carry an extra gallon of water, until Spring and hope for the best. Though tempting, convinced the stop-leak products could easily lead to costly repairs. And the radiator IS 13 years old, they don't last forever.

 

[Mooseman]

It may get worse between now and the spring and at a time that is even more inconvenient.

 

[CajunWon]

Ordered the Klimoto, it uses the same stock photos as the AutoZone brand. Notice other online sources use the same photo for their brand. And I trust that Autozone wouldn't offer an item if they get complaints/returns. This will ship from Klimoto Florida dist center

 

[CajunWon]

Will be my 1st radiator replacement with a tranny cooler. Done couple without this extra connection.
side note: my Jeep radiator lasted 2x as long and 2x the miles as this b4 I sold it when the tranny failed.

 

[mrrsm]

To Whom It May Concern... (besides @CajunWon)

Nope... Actually... You'll want to Install that ***Brass Fitting FIRST... with the Radiator laid out flat on a table top like surface BEFORE you Install the Radiator into the vehicle. You WILL need either the Proper Size LARGER HEX Wrench or a Proper Sized Crescent Wrench to CAREFULLY HOLD THAT FLAT LARGER ALUMINUM HEX FITTING that rests and seals against the outside Plastic Face of the Radiator.

Next... you should use a Proper FLARE FITTING LINE HEX WRENCH to then Turn the ***Brass Fitting VERY CAREFULLY and Snug it Down into the Aluminum Structure WITH AN EQUAL MEASURE OF GENTLE COUNTER FORCE from the Crescent Wrench. If you attempt to do this work inside of the Vehicle... you can very easily Accidentally apply TOO MUCH FORCE and wind up TURNING THAT ALUMINUM HEX LARGER FITTING and Break the Factory Seal between IT and the Plastic Sealed Face of The Radiator.

After Using BOTH of these Tools ...THEN you can Install the Radiator and simply insert the measured Transmission Cooler Line Fitting/Hose assembly until it "Clicks" afterwards. There is NO NEED to remove the Tri-Lobe Steel Spring Clip out of this a Brand New ***Brass Threaded Line Fitting during this Installation. The Less you Mess with it, the Less of a chance of it opening up TOO WIDE. Remember ... It is the Durable Silicone Seals inside and outside of the Brass Fitting that does the Sealing... NOT Excessive Torque Tightening Force.

If you Do NOT possess these Two Tools... AutoZone and Harbor Freight sell complete SAE and METRIC Flare Line Wrench Sets and Crescent Wrenches of various sizes as well. Don't get the Cheapest versions of these Tools... Precision Holding is very important in ALL Line Replacement Repairs.

*** It Looks Like a Brass Fitting ...but is probably made of Cadmium Plated STEEL.

 

[CajunWon]

Updated a previous video based on MRRSM guidance.
Would Teflon tape be advisable?

 

[Reprise]

Here's my experience:

Someone brought me a Nissan Sentra because it was running hot. Coolant was not circulating at all. Pulled the head off and found plugged up coolant passages. Maybe they used more than one dose of the stuff, I'm not sure. I'm always of the opinion to not bandaid anything and just fix it.

Man, if those pics aren't the best testimonial I've ever seen for why *not* to put Bar's Leaks into an engine, I don't know what is.

To coin an analogy... Bandaids go on top of a wound, not into the wound channel.

 

[CajunWon]

Should plumbers tape be used on these threads?

 

[Reprise]

Info I found online says if it's going into aluminum, then 'no', because it won't feel tight, you'll overtighten, and then crack / break the fitting.

If you're talking about the non-threaded line connections, I'd probably advise against that as well. Just a hunch; someone else might come along and advise differently.

 

[mrrsm]

Teflon Tape...? Nope. The 1st INNER Silicone "O" Ring hidden down inside of the Aluminum Radiator Female Fitting mates up at the BASE of the Cadmium Plated Fitting leading into the Cooling Tubes inside of the Radiator. With Modest Torque applied ... It Seals the Breach between the OD Threaded (Flat End) of that fitting and the Larger Aluminum Insertion point .

If you Lather on any Thread Sealant or Thread Locker or Wrap any Teflon Tape around External Fitting Threads, that stuff might get stuck in between the Base of the Fitting and the In-Dwelling 1st Silicone "O" Ring and potentially defeat the seal in the presence of Very HOT Transmission Fluid being contained by the Piping Lines and Fitting(s) ... and result in a Leak.

For any Curious Others intent on Performing this Repair:

As described in the Video from @CajunWon ... Look at this attached image. AFTER the Transmission Cooler Line Fitting is installed and Tightened Down inside of the Aluminum Fitting inside of the Radiator (Post Installation in the Vehicle)... Take that Short Tube segment with the Beveled (ramped) End highlighted inside of the Red Circle... and Stick it down inside of the Open Tri-Lobe Spring Decorated End of that Cadmium Plated Steel Radiator-Trans-Cooler Fitting and Push on it inwards until it solidly "Clicks".

Those Three Wire-Wound Spring Lobe segments will spread open as the Tube glides inside and up the smooth beveled portion of that Tube and then suddenly spring back and LOCK over the Broader Flat Section. Meanwhile, the smooth surface of the Inlet Tube will be held inside that Fitting tighter than a Prophylactic on a "Tumescent Teenager" on Prom Night.

After that... The Tube and Pressurized Fluid Filled Line WILL be able to gyrate and move around just a little bit inside as it is expressly designed for this purpose. BUT... it will NOT LEAK any Transmission Fluid because of the constant Compression Tension created from the 2nd Silicone "O"Ring hidden inside of the Cadmium Plated Fitting... squeezing uniformly around the OD of the In-Dwelling Tube.

 

[CajunWon]

The 29mm nut is threaded on. So when tightening the 19mm connector, applying equal torque, the larger may come loose. At this point I figure the connector is tight enough. About as tight as a spark plug when it crushes it's washer.
.

Here is the video from an '02 4.2l

Step by step guide:

radiator replacement

In the interest of passing on information I thought I'd give a quick writeup on how I replaced my radiator today. I didn't exactly take notes as I went so I may be off by a bolt or two here and there in my description. :biggrin: I discovered a couple days ago that the entire top of my radiator...

gmtnation.com

 

[CajunWon]

Started an hour before dark, found this ain't a one hour diy.
Both lower hose clamps broke, had to cut one of them off with cutting wheel.
Above video & writeup were close enough to help.
btw fan shroud must be removed on this 06 5.3. -The transmission oil lines are in the way. 2.5hrs plus cleanup.