Rack and Pinion Replacement

[dsutherland]

Vehicle: 2003 Trailblazer 2WD 4.2L LTZ (not EXT) 188,000 miles

Task: Replacing rack and pinion with rebuilt rack because of leaking seal at the nut under the steering gear input shaft. Leak has slowly increased over past five months, and Lucas leak oil has not worked.

Question 1: Do I need to remove the lower control arm bracket (LCAB) or JUST the bolts?
The Hayes manual states remove the lower control arm bolts and refers to another section involving the COMPLETE removal of the lower control arm bracket. I have researched this forum and others forums about the rack and pinion, and no one said anything about the LCAB bolts or removal of the LCAB.

I will greatly appreciate any tips or tricks, and lessons learned to include pictures or videos about the process.

 

[cart7881]

PM me an email address and I'll send the instructions.

 

[BlazingTrails]

It would be helpful to share this information here so that another person that searches for this topic will find a solution.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Pm me and I will post it up if you don't want to

 

[felicie]

When I did my mine it was a couple years ago so I might be a little sketchy on details. You can not pull the rack out the sides because of the pinion shaft. You will have to unbolt the under tray I don't remember if the control bolt to it, but if it does the yes.

 

[Mooseman]

No, it can stay in place with the bolt removed. Just don't put any weight on the wheels or move the lower control arms and your alignment won't change.

 

[dsutherland]

Thank you for the quick reply. Your info makes sense, but what does the bolt removal do?

 

[Mooseman]

It allows you to remove the crossmember that's right under the rack. There's a bunch of other bolts too, some obvious, others less obvious. Check carefully. If all the bolts are removed, the crossmember just drops.

 

[808_LS_EXT]

It allows you to remove the crossmember that's right under the rack. There's a bunch of other bolts too, some obvious, others less obvious. Check carefully. If all the bolts are removed, the crossmember just drops.

Priceless.

 

[Mr.chow33]

Raise truck.
Jack stands.
Take off wheels.
Straighten steering wheel, move seat forward, wrap seat belt around steering wheel to keep straight.
Pop plastic collar where steering connects to rack. 15mm
Loosen tie rod jamb nut, loosen castle nut,
Either18mm or 19mm. Hit with dead low or brass hammer.
Remove tie rods.
21mm for bolts on crossmember, these bolts are the Lower Control Arm Bracket bolts.
There are 10 or so 15mm bolts holding the plate on. Easily identifiable when underneath vehicle. Remove.
Plate is now off.
8mm socket 6in extension 1/4 in ratchet for bolt removal on power steering lines on rack.
13/16 socket. 7/8 02 sensor socket.
13/16 socket goes on bolt.
7/8 socket will slide right between CV axle and into whole w nut. Use 26mm open end to hold socket.
Breaker bar will loosen bolts easily. Air ratchet will fit, and is recommended, however not needed.
YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE STEERING KNUCKLES!! OR CV-AXLES!!
Pull out rack.
Transfer steering collar from old rack to new rack. Place new o-rings on power steering lines. Install the rack. Follow instructions for filling fluid and purging air.

 

[xavierny25]

Welcome aboard @Mr.chow33 great post. Should come in handy to many of us including myself as I might have to do this sooner then later.

 

[Mr.chow33]

Would love to take pics and such, however
Only had today to bang this job out. lol.
In all reality it’s not that bad. Just read in “other sites” that the knuckle needs to come out and that’s totally not the case. My pleasure. This site has helped me out big time!!