I made some progress today, some by some stroke of luck.
After lots of reading, it seams the old sleds with no regulator use high wattage light bulbs to absorb the excess created. What I knew but did not verify is that yes my lights work but they only work when the ignition switch is in place and on the run/lights setting. So when I was testing voltage, the ignition switch was off and I never paid attention to the lights as I don't see the taillight and the headlight points down when the hood is up. So.... with the engine running, lights on (taillight needed its contacts cleaned), the Evinrude gave 6 volts at 1500rpm idle and upwards of 18 volts when piss revved. Much better than the 30 but still a bit on the high side. I now realize I did not check to see if it was the bright or dim on when running. Either way, its on the right path.
Now for the Ghost. I ripped the carb off again, verified the float was slightly greater than parallel when inverted. I found the new O ring was too large and rolled off the recess where it sits when I stuffed in the discharge tube/main jet. I installed my other backup o ring and used an Xacto knife to carve it down to fit snug. I got it to fire and run on both cylinders a few times and rev a little bit. I then played with the hi/low needles and get it to rev a bit more. Then it just sprang to life. I think it had plenty of raw fuel to clear and needed some heat to do this. I removed the tools that were holding the exhaust pipes from the mufflers and it continued to run. I backed it out of the shed and listened to it idle (1500rpm) and how it revved. I played with the needles a bit more so that it wasn't loading up at idle and took it for a few spins in the yard. I leaned out the hi a bit as it was loading up under full throttle, not much but enough to clean it up some. I don't want to melt the pistons so final settings will be done when our bitter winter sets in. It restarted first pull of the recoil as well.
Its lights and rectifier work, was getting approx. 6 volts at idle and 15 when revved right up. Quite happy so far as it has some decent power when opened up. I will continue to run it a few times per week to ensure no further problems do not crop up prior to the cold.
So whats left on the list is to play around with the lighting, wiring (possibly getting a voltage regulator), get a fresh battery and ignition switch for the Evinrude. The Ghost needs a battery, plugs, reassembly of the exhaust, cowl bolts and a good cleaning.
Cool. I remember when working on an old Olympic that when the headlight blew, all the lights blew because if this voltage system. You hit the brake and everything dims. It had a battery but all it was for was to crank the engine. Crazy old crap.
Ya it is crazy old crap, that's for damn sure. I bloody well learned a lot in the few months since dinking around with these things. I am glad I had something solid to work off of but I still might look at some simple voltage regulators to ensure I don't boil a battery.
I was looking at the lights and man do they dim at idle and light up under throttle, also amazed none are burnt out. The Evinrude needed the tail light cleaned up as it worked in May but had some corrosion that needed a quick brush.
I even tipped the Ghost when turning in reverse. kept running and no damage.... just looked like a tool, similar to that pinko from your video link.
It has reverse? Now there's a rich person's option there. The vast majority back then had no reverse. Back then, sleds were so light that you could just pick it up and throw it around. I'd have a heart attack with my Yamaton!
From what I gather, these were the Caddy's back in the day. Wide track, bogie suspension, reverse, cigarette lighter and electric start. These ones are on the heavy side, all steel. There is not much for paddles on the track so I will not be venturing into deep snow. I buried enough of the work sleds over the years, most were Polaris 550 fan cooled.
So more of an update. Found some time to work on the Ghost. I placed a clear segment of fuel line in and watched the fuel draw. Was piss poor. Its very slight. I then bypassed the fuel pump and ran the clear line to the carb. I primed the engine and it fired up decently and revved up and then died. I did this a few times and noticed that the fuel in the clear line (which I was holding vertical) was not dropping. I then reattached the fuel line to the pump and had it sucking straight from a jerry. Still no a poor draw as there was a massive air lock right at the pump fuel inlet. I primed the engine and she fired and I continued to keep it running on the primer.
Well this method stopped working as I noticed fuel on the dash. Pulled the primer apart and noticed the diaphragm was torn. Great... I then plugged the primer lines and tried this all over again thinking I had a small air intrusion causing a poor fuel draw. Not the case. Pulled the fuel pump apart and it was in great shape.
What I am thinking is the damn float is stuck closed, causing absolutely no fuel to enter. This would cause the air bubble to not clear and why it only ran on the primer.
I was completely out of light and using my headlamp to see so I will rip the carb off next day I get some sunlight.