Mom's 2008 Trailblazer has a fan clutch with no electrical pigtail. I see no place for a pigtail to connect to even if it had one. 100k miles. Looks like belt and tensioner are the only thing that have been done. Only codes are intermittent steering wheel sensor stabilitrak code. I am about to replace the water pump and I am thinking about doing the fan clutch while I am in there. Thanks for any feedback.
Purely mechanical oem fan clutch on 2008 TB?
- Thread starter sashainwy
- Start date
No Electric Fan Clutch on the 2008-09.. And can be tuned out for other years.
Mooseman
Moderator
If your fan clutch is running normally and is not leaking or have failing bearings, you don't have to replace it.
You know, that might be the way I go. The reason for doing the water pump is the pulley has more wiggle than I think it should. Plus a faint loose gravel rolling around in a can sound from the front of the motor. Once I have disassembled it should be more apparent.
Check the AC Clutch bearing... mine made random squeaking noises before it completely went out...
As for the stabilitrak code.... replace the steering wheel position sensor.... they only last a few years. Go OEM on that one.
Mooseman
Moderator
That's if it's only the Service Stabilitrak light that comes on. If the ABS light also comes on with it, it's something else related to the ABS system.
He did mention it was a steering wheel sensor code...
Making progress. Used the chain trick to break the big nut. Used the shroud notch trick so that the shroud would come out. Going smooth so far. I didn't like the way the fan clutch felt, so ordered a new one. Both the new water pump and fan clutch are GM. Put RTV on both sides of the water pump metal gasket, letting it setup a bit before bolting back on. Planning on using a touch of thread lock on the water pump bolts.
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Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,023
Mooseman
Moderator
That makes ME happy
However, there's a new trick. Just cut off the top of the shroud and you don't even need to pull it at all next time.
Well, it's all back together. I cut the shroud before reassembling, and it made it a lot easier. Put a new radiator cap on, and replaced worm gear clamps with constant tension. No leaks and no more rocks-in-coffeecan noise from the front of the motor. BTW, I greatly appreciate the advise and feedback! (now I go to post another question)
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If you cut the shroud like in said picture does that mean id have clearance to remove fan clutch and fan at once without opening the top of radiator neck? This would be awesome if thats the case.That makes ME happy
However, there's a new trick. Just cut off the top of the shroud and you don't even need to pull it at all next time.
View attachment 105844
Mooseman
Moderator
Mooseman
Moderator
I'd say it's about the same minus the electronic doohickey in the front of it. Doesn't change the position of the fan at all. Interchangeable between the I6 and V8.
Just to "finish" my thread, in my original post I mentioned the steering wheel sensor code. I replaced the steering wheel position sensor, and that took care of it. Later I got an intermittent stabilitrak code that was not steering wheel sensor. Just like once. But then the trailblazer did some "surprise" braking in the snow/ice at slow speed. Pulling to the right. I figured it was the front right ABS sensor.
Since the TB had over 105k miles, and had the original hub/bearings/sensors, I replaced with new GM assemblies. The old sensors had a bit of rust jacking. The bearings themselves felt OK, no play, but some noticeably higher resistance in old passenger side compared to driver side old, as well as the new bearings. Anyway, no more ABS/Stabilitrak codes after replacing steering position sensor and hub assemblies. ABS/Stabilitrak worked as it should in the snow/ice after that as well. They plow the main roads and of course in town it's all plowed, but it's still slippery, and the ABS/Stabilitrak does a pretty admirable job for a RWD vehicle. Especially with some bags of tube sand thrown in the rear storage area.
Since the TB had over 105k miles, and had the original hub/bearings/sensors, I replaced with new GM assemblies. The old sensors had a bit of rust jacking. The bearings themselves felt OK, no play, but some noticeably higher resistance in old passenger side compared to driver side old, as well as the new bearings. Anyway, no more ABS/Stabilitrak codes after replacing steering position sensor and hub assemblies. ABS/Stabilitrak worked as it should in the snow/ice after that as well. They plow the main roads and of course in town it's all plowed, but it's still slippery, and the ABS/Stabilitrak does a pretty admirable job for a RWD vehicle. Especially with some bags of tube sand thrown in the rear storage area.
