Pulling trigger on Transgo kit, thoughts on VB Separator Plate?

[Mike534x]

Feel free to merge this with the Valve Body/Codebuster thread if this seems like it would be better merged with that one!

I'll be ordering everything needed to work on the valve body. But I have a few final thoughts on a few things needed, before making the plunge and purchasing everything.

What I have so far;

2x Sonnax Pinless Accumulators for the 1-2, 3-4 (77998-03K)
1x Sonnax Forward Accumulator (77987-01K)


I know I could have purchased the "full" kit from ctpowertrain, but I'm still on the fence of installing/using the corvette servo. Mostly due to how much of a PITA it seems to be to get at, and of course, installing/getting the retaining ring back in. The soft shifts don't bother me too much, but it I don't mind if they're slightly firmer but nothing too crazy. So my question mostly pertains to the Valve Body Separator Plate, from what I can see in the images online its a lot beefier then the stock one. I assume, its thicker if you plan on using the existing steel check balls, if they're still in good condition/not beat to hell from slamming into the original plate? I ask because I saw @gmcman mention in an older thread that the dealer/OEM part has both the plate and gaskets molded already eliminating the need for trying to line up everything when getting the Valve Body back into the transmission. Could I get away with using the dealer version, but with the Torlon ones instead? This is based off assuming that the Torlon ones are more forgiving on the plate vs the steel ones. Or is it better to just get the Transgo plate instead?

The upgrade/swap is mostly because I want to prolong whatever life is left in the transmission. The fluid is still nice and red from when I did the Dorman deep pan swap/filter change 20k ago, while swapping out the shift solenoids as preventative maintenance. Fluid at that time prior to the swap was just a shade darker but not black/brown/burnt. At 197k, I'm sure it can go on much longer with the kit installed.

So what are your guys thoughts? Any harm going with the AC Delco Plate w/Torlon vs the Transgo one?

On another note, I've been watching Hiram's (Automatic Transmission) install video for the kit, at least a few times now. It does not seem too complicated, other then working at a slow pace and rechecking every single step as you go along to ensure everything is installed as it should. Any other YouTubers worth watching along with his, for the kit? I suppose another question would be, am I going to need that ATSG 4L60E manual that ctpowertrain includes with their full kit, or is that just for illustration with the instructions transgo gives? Thanks!

 

[gmcman]

The vette servo provides more holding power, the by product is a slightly firmer shift, but nothing crazy.

The side cover isn't too bad. Lower the crossmember, then use a pick or screwdriver and remove the snap ring.

Don't remove the cover unless you have the new seal. In a pinch, use a pick and carefully pull on the seal to stretch it, this will allow the cover to come off. Let the seal sit for awhile and it will shrink back down to size.

I would get the vette servo and the sonnax super hold servo, replace both when inside the cover.

As far as the seperator plate, I think any of the aftermarket kits would work, many have used them. I can't speak for any as I haven't used them.

For me, I'm not trying to change anything except more holding pressure on the bands and retain the factory setup of the trans with our platform....longevity is key for me, which is why I went with the new plate from the dealer which is matched th my VIN.

I contacted Dana of ProBuilt Automatics and he sold me the parts. Also showed me which hole to enlarge with a certain size drill bit for more holding pressure on I believe the converter lockup...I'll look for it.

 

[Mike534x]

@gmcman I'll need to contact the dealer to verify the part number on the separator plate, I was going off the part number RockAuto has for the Delco one. It seems like it would be alright, especially with using the Torlon balls with it. The money used on the Delco one, would free up a bit for grabbing the vette servo.

As far as holding power goes, I assume that means the amount of time the transmission stays in that gear?

 

[gmcman]

As far as holding power goes, I assume that means the amount of time the transmission stays in that gear?

The holding power in this regard is the pressure applied to the band. This is for the 2-4 shift and basically the larger surface area of the vette servo will provide higher holding force when applied. Once the friction band is worn then you need to rebuild the trans. Generally the higher holding pressure lowers the time between shifts and less overlap.

You could also add the Sonnax super hold 4th piston and use together with the vette servo.

 

[Mike534x]

@gmcman Ahh I see! Since I'm not too knowledgeable on the inner workings of the transmission, I assume this will help prevent the burn up and whatnot thats common on these? Or at the very least, slow the rate at which it could happen?

Is there a guide available for installing the super hold? Expensive little thing isn't it. Well if I do the servo, I'll more then likely buy a new snap ring just to be on the safe side. Knowing my luck it'll break or something, though I may get a new seal as well. I take it, its a good idea to use brake cleaner to clean off the valve body, and have a small tub of vaseline and maybe some blue tranny assembly lube. The process itself doesn't seem too bad, but getting the plate/gasket to stay while putting the valve body back in seems a little challenging. Though my worry is remembering where each and every bolt goes.


I assume the trans go kit comes with the pressure regulator valve, now is there anything I have to do with the TCC? I know Sonnax has the one that can be reamed but didn't know if there was anything else to use that doesn't involve buying a $100 one use bit.

 

[Mike534x]

Update:

Ordered everything today. The OEM valve body came, and I put an order in for the torlon check balls. I think the OEM style one should be perfectly fine, especially when it doesn't have the steel check backs pounding away at it. The TransGo kit off eBay (orange box), blue tact transmission assemblee lube, and I'll be ordering the corvette servo last.

I noticed in the listing, and on Transgo's website that the kit comes with a valve for DoD engines. Is this something I can ignore installing, since mine is disabled via my PCM of NC tune??

 

[Sparky]

I've used the Transgo hardened plates with OEM check balls in 3 separate transmissions. Granted I have never torn a valve body back down to assess it later but I've never had any issues.

 

[Mike534x]

@Sparky I was contemplating reusing the original one, but with 197k it seemed better just to get a new one. Didn't seem like it would hurt to get a new OEM one, and use the torlon balls. Any tips or suggestions on what I should/shouldn't do?

I've probably read at least most of the trans go threads on here, some with links that lead to a dead page that couldn't be found.

 

[Mooseman]

I noticed in the listing, and on Transgo's website that the kit comes with a valve for DoD engines. Is this something I can ignore installing, since mine is disabled via my PCM of NC tune??

That's something you should ask TransGo. First time I've heard of this valve.

 

[Sparky]

@Sparky I was contemplating reusing the original one, but with 197k it seemed better just to get a new one. Didn't seem like it would hurt to get a new OEM one, and use the torlon balls. Any tips or suggestions on what I should/shouldn't do?

I've probably read at least most of the trans go threads on here, some with links that lead to a dead page that couldn't be found.

Actually a correction, I have used 2 hardened plates. My first trans I did this work to was not the code buster kit, it was just the Transgo kit. I'm trying to remember if I replaced the plate or just got new seals... I think I reused that plate. Oh well.

You're fine with the new OEM plate. I don't see a problem with that at all.

 

[Mike534x]

That's something you should ask TransGo. First time I've heard of this valve.

I'll be giving them a call tomorrow, it looks like I missed their customer service hours. I saw the image in the eBay listing. I didn't purchase the kit through ctpowertrain, but I found a standalone unit by a seller named automaxx1. Same one as ctpowertrain, just minus the manual, servos and accumulators + gaskets. The kit looks like the same code buster one, orange box and all. My mistake, its actually a spacer thats advertised for cylinder deactivation. My mistake for putting valve earlier. After watching the video of the install by Hiram (Automatic Transmission) I saw a mention of this same spacer from the image on one of the pages in the instruction packet.

Actually a correction, I have used 2 hardened plates. My first trans I did this work to was not the code buster kit, it was just the Transgo kit. I'm trying to remember if I replaced the plate or just got new seals... I think I reused that plate. Oh well.

You're fine with the new OEM plate. I don't see a problem with that at all.

That's what I was hoping for lol. I didn't see a problem going with another OEM one, the hardened plate didn't seem too necessary if I was replacing the culprit that damages it in the first place. The savings will help with covering the vette servo when I pick it up last.

I feel like I can take on the task of working on the valve body, but its the fear of misplacing the bolts that has me. Otherwise, everything else seems pretty straight forward for the most part.

 

[gmcman]

The nice thing about the plate from the dealer is the gaskets are molded to the plate and the small filters are installed. Only thing to line up is the plate to the valve body.

Not sure if the Transgo kit is the same but not a huge deal either way.

FWIW, I would absolutely replace the plate if I was removing the valve body.

 

[littleblazer]

If I remember correctly, the piece for DOD is required to be used in the valve body for the supplied pin next to it. The bore is different. The trans go instructions were pretty clear for that bit iirc. So much has happened in my life since then I just can't remember. All I remember is that it was in the single freggin digits and I was hating life.

 

[gmcman]

If I remember correctly, the piece for DOD is required to be used in the valve body for the supplied pin next to it.

DOD?

Are you referring to displacement on demand?

 

[littleblazer]

DOD?

Are you referring to displacement on demand?

Yea the spacer he was talking about a few posts ago. Its so the torque converter wouldn't have chattered in V4 mode. (I'm beyond exhausted... I've reached some new kind of level of tired.)

 

[Mike534x]

The nice thing about the plate from the dealer is the gaskets are molded to the plate and the small filters are installed. Only thing to line up is the plate to the valve body.

Not sure if the Transgo kit is the same but not a huge deal either way.

FWIW, I would absolutely replace the plate if I was removing the valve body.

I just received the new plate today. I do like how its molded to the plate itself, had I gone with the transgo one, I wonder if using a dab of vaseline or something would have been possible to keep the gaskets aligned while re-installing it.

Yea the spacer he was talking about a few posts ago. Its so the torque converter wouldn't have chattered in V4 mode. (I'm beyond exhausted... I've reached some new kind of level of tired.)

That would be it! The kit is arriving tomorrow, though it looks like it may be a next weekend type of deal. Between 105* weather tomorrow, and storming on Sunday its not exactly something I want to tackle during lol. I plan on reading through the instruction sheet, though I wasn't sure if it was necessary to install the spacer if DoD is disabled already.

 

[littleblazer]

I just received the new plate today. I do like how its molded to the plate itself, had I gone with the transgo one, I wonder if using a dab of vaseline or something would have been possible to keep the gaskets aligned while re-installing it.





That would be it! The kit is arriving tomorrow, though it looks like it may be a next weekend type of deal. Between 105* weather tomorrow, and storming on Sunday its not exactly something I want to tackle during lol. I plan on reading through the instruction sheet, though I wasn't sure if it was necessary to install the spacer if DoD is disabled already.

The way I see it is the parts are designed to work together. May as well do it. You'll already have it apart anyway lol.

 

[Mike534x]

@littleblazer That's true! If I'm going deep, I might as well use whatever is given.

 

[Mike534x]

Alright, just received the kit today. I take it this is the right one? I thought the box would be orange, unless this is how it is now.

 

[Sparky]

Yea the spacer he was talking about a few posts ago. Its so the torque converter wouldn't have chattered in V4 mode. (I'm beyond exhausted... I've reached some new kind of level of tired.)

Wait until you have kids!

I just received the new plate today. I do like how its molded to the plate itself, had I gone with the transgo one, I wonder if using a dab of vaseline or something would have been possible to keep the gaskets aligned while re-installing it.

A couple of bolts through the valve body and plate holds the gasket in place well enough.

Alright, just received the kit today. I take it this is the right one? I thought the box would be orange, unless this is how it is now.

Looks like they updated their box.

 

[gmcman]

Try to leave the center-most bolt in the valve body when removing, makes it slightly easier, same when re-installing.

Here are some pics I found when I replaced mine, I'm 99% sure this is the port I was told to drill for a slight increase in hold on the TCC.



Check ball positions:




Trying to get these pics up before you tear into it, I believe this is where one of the check balls will fall out when removing the valve body, use a dab of vaseline when re-installing. Double-check though.




New plate vs. worn, note the enlarged seat from the check ball, common failure point which results in pressure loss.





I cannot comment on your Transgo kit, never used that plate. This is the OE plate I used.



Hope this helps, any questions don't hesitate to ask.

 

[littleblazer]

Wait until you have kids!

I feel it's the same but different lol. The biggest problem is I don't have a bed and any shred of sleep I've gotten has been on my couch. I don't like the couch and I'm lo get than it...

I would also agree that it appears the box has been updated.

 

[Mike534x]

A couple of bolts through the valve body and plate holds the gasket in place well enough.

That......didn't cross my mind

Hope this helps, any questions don't hesitate to ask.

It absolutely does! I was beginning to lose track of the all the tabs for the site open with different posts regarding the kit lol. The pics help tremendously! I spent most of today reading over the install manual for the kit, and it seems relatively more straight forward then I previously thought. Combing it with everything on here, plus the YouTube video has me feeling much more confident in doing it. Of course I plan to take my time so I don't mess up anything. I'm also glad they gave a handy re-installation diagram at the very end showing which sized bolt goes where. I will keep in mind about being careful with that check ball, I suppose if I do end up losing it, I can just replace with the torlon ones I purchased?

Now I see Transgo provided their own springs for the accumulators, is it better to use the ones they give or use the existing springs? I see the kit mentions the provided springs correspond with the servo as well. I'm not jumping into the servo just yet, though I plan on it. Is this something I can skip for right now? I also take it its worth drilling the separator plate for that one hole?

 

[Mike534x]

Oh and one more thing.

I'm planning on getting the Sonnax springs, I may just do the #74936. If I go with these, are they just a single spring for the 1-2 and 3-4 accumulators , or is it a dual setup like the OEM ones with an inner and outer? Or is it better to go with the HD #77704S?

Or what would be the recommended spring setup be?

 

[Mike534x]

Just a small update, spoke to Transgo.

If you have AFM/DoD disabled, you can use either the blue spring or spacer for the ISO valve. So if anyone is curious, either or can be used.

 

[Mike534x]

Got use of my buddys shop after hours on Tuesday! So Shift kit install will commence then 🙂

Also I have a question. So during attempt #1, I only did the 1-2 accumulator, replacing the factory one with the pinless Sonnax accumulator with their purple spring listed in my earlier post. I inserted the correct ball bearing, and staked the bore. I however didn't stake the bearing into the bore very much, as the flat head I used to do it seemed to help doing it for me while I tapped away at it. I've noticed at about 30-40% throttle the shift gets pretty firm, enough that when it does the change into second it causes my tires to briefly chirp. Is this considered normal? I'm not used to it so I'm just checking in to see if thats intended, or if I should pull it and re-check it when I get the valve body down.