- Jul 24, 2012
- 821
So, reading up on the SAIS.
Have I really never had a problem with this or do I just not know I ever had a problem with this?
Some people seem to have had to replace it on the regular. I didn't even know it was a thing.
Pulling the transmission this weekend
- Thread starter 6716
- Start date
So, reading up on the SAIS.
Have I really never had a problem with this or do I just not know I ever had a problem with this?
Some people seem to have had to replace it on the regular. I didn't even know it was a thing.
Mooseman
Moderator
It usually fails with water accumulation in the pump. I had it tuned out but it's still functional at the moment. It will fail some day and when it does, nothing will happen. It's one of those things that does very little to really help in reducing pollution. It just helps to get the cat working a little faster by injecting extra air into the exhaust during warmup.
If you are getting a tune, I'd get the codes deleted because it will eventually fail.
If you are getting a tune, I'd get the codes deleted because it will eventually fail.
- Jul 24, 2012
- 821
So, shit. Things were going really well putting the transmission back in, but then I goofed up on the torque converter bolts and had to pull the whole thing down and reset the converter.
Then when I got it back up, when we were tightening the bellhousing bolts there were a couple of loud bangs somewhere in there, and now I can't spin engine/transmission to move to the next torque converter bolt.
Super bummed, it was going really well 'til I goofed up the converter bolts, now I don't know what's wrong. I put the crossmember back up and it's just resting on that for the moment.
Any ideas?
Then when I got it back up, when we were tightening the bellhousing bolts there were a couple of loud bangs somewhere in there, and now I can't spin engine/transmission to move to the next torque converter bolt.
Super bummed, it was going really well 'til I goofed up the converter bolts, now I don't know what's wrong. I put the crossmember back up and it's just resting on that for the moment.
Any ideas?
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Yep. The converter wasn't in far enough. There are three seating actions required. This site gives a pretty good overview of how to do it, and how to know when it's correctly seated.
Right now, you've probably broken the tabs that mate the TC to the pump rotor. If you're lucky, you can rebuild the pump (although it will have to be pulled; you may want to take it back to your builder to rebuild / remount it).
On the bright side, if you had started the engine, you'd be replacing the pump (not just rebuilding it), and most likely, the converter as well.
Here's another link on what likely happened to you. I don't recall if they mention it at this link, but before mounting the converter, it's good to put in at least a quart of ATF into the converter (more is better, but as long as it doesn't go in completely dry, it's better than starting it up that way.) The first link goes over how to do this.
Right now, you've probably broken the tabs that mate the TC to the pump rotor. If you're lucky, you can rebuild the pump (although it will have to be pulled; you may want to take it back to your builder to rebuild / remount it).
On the bright side, if you had started the engine, you'd be replacing the pump (not just rebuilding it), and most likely, the converter as well.
Here's another link on what likely happened to you. I don't recall if they mention it at this link, but before mounting the converter, it's good to put in at least a quart of ATF into the converter (more is better, but as long as it doesn't go in completely dry, it's better than starting it up that way.) The first link goes over how to do this.
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- Jul 24, 2012
- 821
- Jul 24, 2012
- 821
Well if I ever have to do this again, it will go a whole lot faster.
So, I had the guy that rebuilt the trans re-rebuild the pump. Charged me $200 for that, which included picking it up and dropping it off. Which, I'd have paid for a new pump anyway, and would have had to do it myself.
So, the bellhousing is bolted to the engine, and the torque converter is bolted to the flex plate. I put the cross member back in and the transmission is resting on that while I wait for the weather to get warm enough again to make a little more progress.
The thing that is a pain now is getting the cooler lines back into the trans. I didn't want to mess with the clips, so I just unscrewed the threaded bit they clip into. Now for some reason I'm not getting those threads to make any progress going back into the trans.
So, I had the guy that rebuilt the trans re-rebuild the pump. Charged me $200 for that, which included picking it up and dropping it off. Which, I'd have paid for a new pump anyway, and would have had to do it myself.
So, the bellhousing is bolted to the engine, and the torque converter is bolted to the flex plate. I put the cross member back in and the transmission is resting on that while I wait for the weather to get warm enough again to make a little more progress.
The thing that is a pain now is getting the cooler lines back into the trans. I didn't want to mess with the clips, so I just unscrewed the threaded bit they clip into. Now for some reason I'm not getting those threads to make any progress going back into the trans.
Mooseman
Moderator
How are you going to engage the pump tangs into the torque converter? You have to be able to freely turn the torque converter to make sure it engages properly. See what happens when the torque converter isn't properly engaged with the plastic tangs:
https://gmtnation.com/forums/thread...stallation-on-4-2l-gmt360s.17037/#post-534149
https://gmtnation.com/forums/thread...stallation-on-4-2l-gmt360s.17037/#post-534149
- Jul 24, 2012
- 821
Mooseman thanks for your note.
I am 99.9865% certain I have the converter on correctly *this time*. I am pretty sure I had it wrong like you were describing last time, when I crushed the pump tangs tightening the bellhousing bolts like it shows in the thread you linked.
Maybe I didn't describe it very well in my last comment.
Mooseman
Moderator
This is what I read, meaning you left the TC and bellhousing on the engine and you have the tranny, without the bellhousing, out, like what we'd do with a manual tranny. It's actually impossible to do this since the bellhousing to tranny bolts are INSIDE the bellhousing.
Please ignore my blond moment.
- Jul 24, 2012
- 821
Holy buckets I finished it!
It goes forward! And backward!
Third gear seems a little taller than I remember, but whatever.
There is a leak, though. I want to say it looks like it is coming from around where the fill tube goes in. It seems like it leaks when it is running, but not when it is stopped.
Ideas on that leak? I haven't put it up yet, won't get to that until next weekend I think.
It goes forward! And backward!
Third gear seems a little taller than I remember, but whatever.
There is a leak, though. I want to say it looks like it is coming from around where the fill tube goes in. It seems like it leaks when it is running, but not when it is stopped.
Ideas on that leak? I haven't put it up yet, won't get to that until next weekend I think.
Mounce
Member
Should be an O-ring where the tube goes in. Maybe it got pinched and needs replaced? Fluid at correct level?
- Jul 24, 2012
- 821
Yeah the fill tube got the new rubber boot from the rebuilder. Fluid seems to be finally pretty close to right on. Took 12 quarts so far, but then I am losing a little when it runs. Checked in quick with the rebuilder and he mentioned to double check the cooler line connections. Those line connections are the worst part of the whole deal I think.
Might also double check that the fill tube is seated correctly, but it bolted up right, so it should be?
Might also double check that the fill tube is seated correctly, but it bolted up right, so it should be?
