PS line leak

[NJTB]

Here's the deal. The metal power steering line on the drivers side sprung a leak.
My plan is to cut the line (s), use some brake line and double flare the fittings, if I can. I figure the double flare is used on brake lines that work under approximately the same pressures.
I'm hoping this is a viable solution, don't think I can get the whole line assembly installed in the garage, too tight, and working on the truck outside isn't an option (townhouse, the association is REAL pissy about working on a vehicle).
Anyone think this is going to work?

 

[Sparky]

I don't know if it would hold on the pressure line. We're talking several hundred PSI on that line. Also, normal brake line is a fair bit smaller in diameter than the PS lines are.

If it is the low pressure line then that would be OK, although you could also just use 3/8" fuel hose with some clamps. That's what I did on my low pressure line that goes from the cooler to the pump.

 

[Mooseman]

If on the low pressure line, just some compression fittings work well for that. If it's the pressure line, I would think that double flaring would work since brakes can push upwards of 1000 psi.

 

[Texan]

I have not had this problem, but if I did, I
would research "Swagelok" fittings.
They are used in many industries.

 

[NJTB]

Thank you all for the replies, I do appreciate the input.
Looks like it's going to happen on Saturday, I'll let everyone know how I make out.

 

[Mooseman]

If it is the pressure line (the one closest to the engine), be sure you have a plan B in case it doesn't work. Basically, a new pressure line or a store that has one in stock somewhere.

 

[NJTB]

Texan,
Thanks for the tip on Swagelocks. I Googled them and watched a You Tube video, they will take the pressure and you don't have to screw around with the flaring tool. What worries me is the fact the line has to be CLEAN with no scratches. Maybe I can clean the existing lines up with a scotchbrite pad.

Mooseman,
Yes, I have no plan B, and definitely need one. Right now I'm so busy and so broke it's almost funny. A trip to the dealer to find out if the hose is in stock is a good idea. If things go south at least I'll have an out.

 

[Mooseman]

Doesn't have to be the dealer. There are aftermarket ones available.

 

[Eric04]

Back in my teens(a loooonnngg time ago)I did the same job with compression fittings and matching diameter line. It wasn't pretty but it kept my beater on the road and never leaked on me in the year or so I ran it before retiring the beast to the junkyard. Nothing wrong with a little ghetto ingenuity when you're in a bind.

 

[Harpo]

I did it two months ago on my tb,both lines.

I just took a oilresistant hose and one clamp on each side,no flares.
Worked like a charm. It's actually not THAT much pressure.
It was at my vacation hundred of miles from home so I had no choise other than this way,but it worked and still works

I had a stone break my cooler and while bypassing that I accidentally broke the other line :-(

 

[NJTB]

I spliced in both lines yesterday, and so far, after a short test ride, no leaks. It did take me a good part of the day to do it.
Started out by figuring out where I was going to cut the lines, then cleaned those spots with some 400 sandpaper to remove any schmutz. The lines polished right up.
On the low pressure line, I cut just past the turn over the shock tower, and where it drops down to the frame. It required about a foot of steel line.
On the high pressure side, I cut in the same place, but had to go along the frame and drop down near the underside of the radiator, several inches in front of the high pressure hose there.
By far the worst part of the job was dealing with the rusty bolts. The clamp where the rubber piece goes over the shock tower's bolt just rounded off, so I wound up bending it back to get the rubber part out and the lines in. The clamps that hold the lines in along the frame rail came out after a minor struggle.
Initially, I thought I would have enough room to get a flaring tool in to flare the lines. After getting into the job, there's no way, just not enough room.
A poster suggested swagelock fittings (thank you, Texan), that made this work.
Total cost was around $75, $65 for the swagelock fittings, $10 for the line, about 1/2 pint of blood, and a few bruises, but it works.