Project Two Guns Continues

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#1
As some of the older members already know that I have a heavily modified truck. After differential swap, transmission swap, second transmission installed, and a few other minor mods (sound, lights, ect) I finally got my hands on a LQ4 6.0. Next is parts, parts and more parts. Im looking to get the top end kit from trick flow. Kit number: Trick Flow® 550 HP GenX® Top-End Engine Kits for GM LS2 TFS-K306-550-470. I will also use ARP bolts on all items that are critical and hard to get to. The top end kit claims to produce 556 hp and 475 lb-ft of torque on a stock bottom end. below is the lnk to the dyno.

Here is the link https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-k306-550-470/documentation

Dyno on the top end link https://static.trickflow.com/global/images/chartsguides/t/tfs dyno tfs-k306-550-470 2014c.pdf

Next will be the bottom end. I plan on getting the TSP 402 stroker kit. Which includes TSP Forged 4" Crankshaft, TSP 6.125" H-beam with ARP 2000 bolts, Wiseco 4.005" -3.0cc Flat-Top (10-K464X05), Please Include Coated Clevite Main & Rod Bearing Sets Balance Rotating Assy., 24x reluctor wheel, standard wrist pins.

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-903-tsp-402-cid-lq9ls2l98ly6-rotating-assembly.aspx

I'm reusing my a/c compressor. I'm adding electric fans, 200 amp alienator and a set of headers. Power steering I will try to keep.
 

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#2
I love projects to drool over lol.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#3
Hey sparky, have you been keeping up on this project?
 
#4
I recall some of it, but not all.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#5
I up graded the rear diff from a 8.5 with 3.08:1 to a 9.5 14 bolt with 3.73, Detroit locker and G2 diff cover. took out the nv3500 and added a nv4500 mw3 and gearvendors. converted the front from 5 lugs to 6. 2007 Yukon 17 in rims. no its engine work then suspension. lastly paint n body. interior.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

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#6
Update on the project. I just received my wiring harness and computer. Now have to look for the IAC chip inside. If it is there I can use what I have in the truck far as cruse control and throttle by cable. If it is not then I have to order the proper foot feed for it and do some rewiring on the trucks harness to work the cruse control in the ECU.

I'm also looking at a starter, Alternator, Fans (flex-a-light 280), MAF sensor, building a cold air intake, Fuel pump (50 psi to power the 45LB-hr injectors for 43.8 psi), and using the power steering and A/C from the original.
 
#7
Just a thought but I know the LS1 in the 4th gen Camaro was cable driven throttle and cruise. Maybe you could adapt some of that stuff somehow, get some PCM programming from it, etc? I don't know a lot about that sort of thing but maybe a few pieces from the same engine family may help?
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#8
I would have to go with an earlier ECM and harness. they had 4 different harnesses and two different ECMs
 

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Blackwater

Blackwater

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#9
The wiring harness I received from the bone yard was oily. Must...Clean...it. :mad:
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#10
Got the oily mess cleaned up, mostly. but need couple of other items to complete the swap.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#11
Update on the build. After being overseas on and off for the last 3 years and not to mention things keep breaking while am gone, I am starting to tear down the LQ4. I will have it torn down and begin inspection. After I return, I will have the block worked by a machinist and also, If the MOD Gods permit, have the rotating assembly in. I will be taking pictures to share in the fun.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

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#13
Ok, for now I cant do anything money wise till I return from Jeddah, KSA. But I have decided not to do the stroker crank. I will be having around 475+ Lb-ft with the original crank. What I will do is still do a piston, piston rod, cam and heads upgrade like planned, but for a 6.0L. with this setup I will still make close to 600hp. Not sure yet. I will be first cranking it up on the engine dyno. I rather it self destruct there then in my truck. When I return from my business trip I may still decide to do the stroker. Which if I decide to put the vortec max logos on the truck and the engine covers then they will think there's something up with an engine with head and cam change making 600+ HP. but the stroker kit is $1900. I think if I research more and see how much more for the crank versus just the pistons and rods. Any thoughts?
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#14
Here will be the last touch to the engine build. image1.jpeg
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#15
1526482839496.png 1526482839496.png

Which one would look better in a blue truck?
 
#16
I like having a little contrast, and my TB has the white gauge faces, so I'm a bit biased there.
 
#17
I personally do not like white face gauges.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

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#20
More go fast parts Grill emblem.jpeg
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

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#21
I'm kind of leaning on the black face. Just not sure at the moment.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

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#22
Teardown has started on the engine. My wife and I have been talking about it and she convinced me to drop in the 4" crank and change the displacement from 364cid/6.0L to 402cid/6.6L. When I talked to trick flow, where I'm getting the GenX 225 heads and cam combo, they advised me if I keep the displacement the factory then my output will be around 550HP and 475ft-lb of torque. They then told me that if I did the stroker crank then it will be well over 600HP and 550ft-lb torque with 11:1 compression. We decided that we should rename the truck. We thought about Max. Then a co-worker asked me about supercharging it. My first thought was to call ProCharger. They advise me to use premium gas and 4lbs of boost would get me little over 700hp if I had a static HP of 600. Kevin advised that I lower the compression about 9.5:1 and add 8-9 boost and will net 840hp at a base HP 600. But I know it will be more than 600hp with the crank I'm dropping in. If I SC it then I can rename it Mad Max. Thoughts?
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

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#23
Another issue may come up. would the frame hold the power? Another gearhead like myself that works at O'Reilly Auto parts suggested to fully box in the frame and add cross members. Thoughts?
 
#24
I would think the frame should, but a little more rigidity couldn't hurt nobody. And it is probably easier to do some of it with stuff apart.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#26
I would think the frame should, but a little more rigidity couldn't hurt nobody. And it is probably easier to do some of it with stuff apart.
They where just worried about the frame holding that power without twisting. I told him if I don't do the drag slicks then the tires would be the ones giving. one co-worker asked if I was trying to kill the Hell Cat Challenger. I told him I could give it a run for its money with it along with towing and hauling. Would be funny to be hauling a load and I'm in his rear view. That would intimidate me. This guy in a pickup, loaded and I cant leave him. Honk the horn at the challenger and tell him to move out the way.

How about project Big Guns?
I have asked many people and they all agree with the Max engine that Mad Max would suit it well. Except on guy thinks I need to add spikes and random metal pieces to make it look like it came from the movie.

In other news, I have been working on the wiring to make it a stand alone. Wife and kids is leaving in a week to see her mom and our granddaughter, so I will have more time in the shop. I still have to finish the other lawnmower and finish the Tanker on our volunteer fire department. So I have a lot of things going on and not a whole lot of time. So, I'm still debating with myself about the supercharger. If I do it then I would be considering changing the diff gears from 3.73:1 to 3.42:1 knowing I would have 800+ HP. Can you say sleeper?
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

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#27
Ok, update. I have ordered suspension items for the truck. I'm tired of the rearend walking when I get on it to enter the freeway. While I wait on them I will be taking the axles donor springs, which has one more spring then the trucks original springs, and replace the bushings in them and paint them to match the axle housing. On order is Hellwig rear sway bar and tuff country traction bars. :celebrate::satan:

On another subject, I was talked out of the procharger for my build. the distributer told me unless I want to haul a smart car while blowing my horn to signal a dodge challenge hell cat to move out the way that the naturally aspirated vortec max stroker with the already drivetrain setup would be plenty enough power for red light to red light douchbaggary.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

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#28
Traction bar did not fit, but the sway bar did. Added the springs from the donor truck the rear diff came from and lifted the rear 2.5 inches so the rear is 3.5 inches higher than the front. What do you think of the stance? I also found out when realigning the truck that my ball joints are shot and a couple of the bushings are pushing out. Guess the front end conversion is coming sooner then anticipated. Talking to a custom fab shop on modifying my current control arms or fabricate new lower control arms. Then get the other parts I need to convert it will be about $275. Then all that's left is under the hood, interior, body and paint. Unadjusted swaybar.jpeg Springs and swaybar.jpeg New stance.jpeg
 
#29
I think the front needs to come up a bit, but I don't care for heavy amounts of rake and like taller trucks (within reason).

But, that's much better than a cali lean truck. I hate that squatted down look in the rear. Plus half of those guys never realign their headlights.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

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#30
I think the front needs to come up a bit, but I don't care for heavy amounts of rake and like taller trucks (within reason).

But, that's much better than a cali lean truck. I hate that squatted down look in the rear. Plus half of those guys never realign their headlights.
Well, lifting the back end wasn't my idea. Towing was the game. Before it was only one inch difference between the front and rear. Now its 3.5 in between the two. I still have to do the front. I wasn't wanting to lift the truck. It got 2 inches when I went with the bigger tires. That was needed for the 5 lug to 6 lug. then the spring swap raised the rear. we will see how it goes when I upgrade the front.

I honestly had to look up Cali Lean. Around the south we call that bulldogging. I think it raised it because the truck is lighter than the donor. Or it was because it was a 4x4.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#31
Set backs, set backs, set backs. I now have no A/C. It was so hot driving down the highway my Iphone went into over-temp mode. Also, Have the front end to do. Cant get it aligned its so bad. On a good note, I got the oil changed.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#33
High side is the same as the low side. I put more r134a to find the leak and there is none. but I watched Freon cloud the underside of my hood. I have been noticing the A/C compressor making a grinding sound for the last two weeks. I added PAG oil and it seemed to help. but yesterday as I was leaving the gas station I heard a peeeeewwwww and cloud. I reached over and turned off the A/C. Now I noticed the hoses where a little loose on the back and I tightened them and added two cans. the two cans are still in there.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#34
I also have a solenoid dieing in my starter. :Banghead::duh:
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#36
Im in luck, I bought a lifetime starter so I am just going to swap it out.

Yeah, Im either thinking the valve in the compressor or the orifice tube or both.
 

JerryIrons

Well-Known Member
#37
If you have a bad orifice tube, compressor would still pump up pressure. So if the high side pressure testing port is between the orifice tube and compressor, you would see high pressure on your manifold measuring gauge. Unless you are in a situation like mine right now, where my condenser is so plugged that the pressure can't get through to the high side pressure port. That was fun to figure out.

If I had a compressor making noise like that, it would go buh bye :smile:
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#38
If you have a bad orifice tube, compressor would still pump up pressure. So if the high side pressure testing port is between the orifice tube and compressor, you would see high pressure on your manifold measuring gauge. Unless you are in a situation like mine right now, where my condenser is so plugged that the pressure can't get through to the high side pressure port. That was fun to figure out.

If I had a compressor making noise like that, it would go buh bye :smile:
I bought the parts to rebuild the A/C. Haven't had time install. I was on standby at the fire station on the 4th for 6 hours. The next few days I did ball joints and control arm bushings. One of the ball joints was scary bad. On the same arm a bushing was worn bad too. I notice also how bad it was after looking at the tread of the tire was wearing uneven.

I'm a few steps closer on the build. I'm going to have to wait a little longer on the engine. My father-in-law is in real bad shape and will need the money for travel 10-12 hours. That is another reason for the work on the truck. I would need to get there ASAP.
 
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Blackwater

Blackwater

Well-Known Member
#39
After the alignment I now have to go back and knock out the alignment tabs from the factory on the right control arm. Also, yesterday I was looking at my a/c and ran it again and got the right pressures again. I think when I added pag oil to it that it hasn't circulated yet.

I have another electrical issue with the tail lights and already have the part needed to fix it.
 

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