Problem after installing PCMForLess Tune / Intake

[fr34kout]

So I built my own E Fan kit a couple of weeks ago with some help from members on here. Been running 100% for the last few weeks, I tapped Ignition E from the front fusebox to trigger the relay, ran power and ground straight to the battery. Have 3 XS Power Batteries and a 270A Mechman Alternator, electricals is not a problem

Now after installing the intake and tuned computers last night, I went for a small drive, came back home and parked my car for the night. Today I drove to school (about 5 mins to get onto freeways, 25-30 mins on the freeways, then another 5 mins once you get off the freeway through the city to get to campus). Temperatures were reading fine until right before I pulled onto campus. Started to notice the needle rising, and while looking for parking my DIC showed Engine Coolant Hot. Parked as fast as I could, turned off the car, turned accessory on, then went to pop my hood and noticed that my fans weren't on. Started to play with the wires, and after letting it sit for a little while they turned on.

Then I drove to the dealership after school to do the crankshaft angle sensor relearn, and while we had the car running I noticed the temp slowly start climbing again. Once I got back on the freeway after again, everything was fine. Got home and started to notice it again.

Now my first thought was that the tune changed the properties of the Ignition E wire, and that it wasn't straight accessory anymore. So I cycled the ignition on and off about 10 times and every time the fans were turning on and off like expected. The power and ground of relay are straight to battery, basically the only wire that isn't straight to battery is the trigger wire to ignition E, so I know those connections aren't loose. As for the relay, all wires used female connectors to connect to the relay, and I buried them in hot glue, and then wrapped the relay and all the wires in electric tape, so I know all those connections aren't loose as well. The only thing I can think of is that when I tapped to Ignition E I made it loose while messing with the PCM / TCM, or the wire is no longer hot as soon as ignition turns on and stays hot. That or maybe the fans can't keep up with the cooling now? I don't know what to think, any ideas guys?

 

[fr34kout]

Topped off the radiator, start work in half hour (delivery driver), I'll keep an eye on it tonight and update when I get home if the problem persists or if everything is back to normal

 

[06Envoy]

In my old truck I too built my own efan kit. So I can speak from personal experience on a few things.

Problem 1) It seems to me that you can't verify operation of your fans.
- I too didn't trust the operation of my fans kit at first. So I wired in a visual activity light and a manual override switch into the dash. Worked like a charm. If the fans were spinning then I got a light on. Manual control was a bonus.


Problem 2) Assuming your fans are not running, your fine on freeway but overheating at slower speeds.
- Yup, thats about right. I didn't trust the dash temp gauge so I used a MaxiTrip TP100 to monitor my water temps. At Hawaii temps and at Hwy speeds there is enough air flowing across the rad so that the thermostat itself will keep water temps cool. when you slow down there is not enough air flowing thus the need for fans. If they are not kicking on, then you will be overheating.


EDIT: Problem 3) I didn't notice a temp controller in your setup?
- May I suggest that you do. I used a Flex-a-lite 31147 LIKE THIS. It came with the correct temp settings out of the box. I didn't have to adjust it. It's easy to wire in and it will extend the lifespan of your fans, alt, batts, etc.


I highly recommend that you wire yourself up an activity indicator, even a manual switch.
Here are some pics of what it looked like on my old truck.

Chevy Tahoe Forum | GMC Yukon Forum | Tahoe Z71 | Cadillac Escalade - Tahoe Yukon Forum - 99Yuk's Album: EFans, Underdrive Pulleys, and BBTune Installed!


Good Luck!

 

[fr34kout]

Appreciate the lengthy response. I like the idea of the activity light and manual switch, I was kind of thinking of doing something like that so when I listen to my sounds with the car off (waiting for class to start, in a parking lot, etc) I can manually turn the fans off. I might try and incorporate this in. Is it just a regular switch with an LED on it or something else?

For the fan controller, I was actually going to buy that exact controller but decided to save a little money and just wire it to be on when the ignition is on. Like I said, I have 3 1000+ AH batteries and a 270 amp alt for my sound system, the fans drawing 16 amps total isn't going to make the slightest bit of difference, the only thing that it would help is fan life lol.

I think the problem was 1) the coolant level was a little low after changing the thermostat to a 160. When I got home from school I added probably 1.5 liters of water to top it off completely (guess the car needed to run a little to get some more in there), and 2) I think the relay isn't handling like it should. I bought an Omcron (sp?) "High amperage automotive relay", but I just had a friend grab me one from the car audio shop he works at. Only noticed the fans not come on twice at work, after that it worked every time and temps stayed normal. Going to rewire the new relay tomorrow morning and solder the point where I tapped to the ignition wire. Hope that'll take care of the problems.

 

[fr34kout]

So I replaced the relay I bought with a bigger (hopefully better) one, and everything seems fine the last 2 days. Never noticed the fans not turning on, and temp gauge is 1-2 clicks below 210.