Preventive maintenance

Beacon

Silver Supporter
As my Saab approaches 100k i'm trying to plan ahead for what should be done. I'm really looking for "over looked items," or things that had they been done, would have prevented future problems

Here is what has already been done around 88-90k miles
1) transfer case fluid
2) front and rear diff fluid
3) transmission fluid & filter

what i plan to do soon
1) spark plugs
2) clean throttle body
3) serpentine belt

Things i want advice on. Is this a good idea or am I wasting time.
1) clean CPAS
2) use a quart of Top Engine Cleaner
3) change anti-freeze
4) change brake fluid
5) change the front diff again, because it seemed kinda burnt to me and vehicle was stuck in 4wd when purchased
6) change auto trak 2 again, I saw this in a TSB, even though replacing the actuator
motor fixed the problem

The biggest reason I'm considering these things, is after reading ALOT on this forum, it seems like doing these now at my convenience, is way better than seeing a CEL when it's -10 in January and I'm 50 miles from home.
 

Mektek

Well-Known Member
good list!
Flush the brake system if your fluid looks green and you see dirt in the reservoir.
Check the cpas connector - if you see oil inside it you should replace it, otherwise leave it.
Engine cleaner - once if you've never done it, but not needed routinely.
use a cooling system cleaner and change the coolant if its never been done.
Transfer case should be good for 50k mi - leave it unless you have a problem.
Add one more thing to your list - flush the power steering fluid.
 

BrianF

Well-Known Member
Agree: Flush PS fluid, brake fluid, coolant, plugs, belt and clean the TB. Those are all good things to do and at your convenience.

Don't worry about the diffs, TC, if they were done 10k ago, they are fine. A little old/burnt residual fluid will not harm a thing. If you need to swap out 10k old fluid, there is some mechanical issue that needs to be addressed first.

It does not hurt to inspect the CPAS. I removed mine some time ago and found it was in mint shape. Was good to know.

Don't bother with top end cleaner. Unless the rings are coked up or you have massive carbon problems, don't waste your time/money. If the thing is running with the proper A/F ratio, good spark and regular oil changes, its all good.

Then just drive the thing and get some miles on it. Enjoy it.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Check the intake manifold bolts and retighten if necessary.
Check that the fan clutch is working correctly. Look for my writup on this in the engine FAQ.
Not maintenance but will extend the life of your tranny, add an auxiliary cooler.
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
Look inside the cylinder with the plugs removed, if the pistons look clean then don't bother with a top engine cleaner.

Change both O2 sensors with the new plugs.

After replacing my ignition coils a few weeks ago, I can say for certain that even though it ran good and smooth, it's noticeably more responsive with the new coils. About $70 for a set, I'll post the link later but wish I did it sooner.

Replace your fuel pressure regulator with an AC Delco unit, easy to change.

When you change your plugs, would be a great time to document a compression test and maybe even a leak down test. Save those tests for every 80-100K when you change your plugs.

When finished, get a 3/8 breaker bar or flex head ratchet that you won't need on a regular basis, along with a 10MM socket and place in the rear stowaway with your old serpentine belt, along with two old coil packs. You don't want that time to come up on a late Sunday evening on your way home from a vacation....being unprepared.

Pick up two solid state relays for your headlights from a salvage yard, or a parts store but cheaper at a yard. Those are pricey boogers and can be hard to find in a pinch..keep in glovebox.

Nearing the end of summer....replace your battery if at or near 5 years old.

This is a high priority....If you can....lower your spare tire and check for rust on the secondary latch....the part that goes into the hoist that also secures the center hub opening of the wheel.

If it's rusty and corroded, you can replace the lift mechanism.....highly recommended. You DON'T want to find out it won't release on the side of the road, you will create new swear words.

Front hub and bearings seem to last about 130-150K on average, replace both if one goes and will sound like you have a mud tire.
 

Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
Replace your fuel pressure regulator with an AC Delco unit, easy to change.

This is a high priority....If you can....lower your spare tire and check for rust on the secondary latch....the part that goes into the hoist that also secures the center hub opening of the wheel.

If it's rusty and corroded, you can replace the lift mechanism.....highly recommended. You DON'T want to find out it won't release on the side of the road, you will create new swear words.

Front hub and bearings seem to last about 130-150K on average, replace both if one goes and will sound like you have a mud tire.
gmcman- Do you have the part number for that fuel pressure regulator? The only thing I could find was the fuel tank pressure sensor, which is on the fuel pump. Mine is the 4.2i, like the OP.

I have to change the fuel pump this weekend or next, luckily it's covered under warranty.

I highly agree with gmcman's points on the wheel hub, bearing, and the spare tire!
I had to cut mine spare tire out with a torch, not fun. His other points were good as well, I just didn't want two long posts with the same data.

@Beacon - Be careful when purchasing that serpentine belt. There are two different sizes. I believe our belt for the 97x 06-08 is the shorter belt. I think it's because the alternator pulley is larger on the other models/years.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
05+ don't have an external fuel pressure regulator. It's part of the fuel pump module.
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
The coils I bought were these:


I had a solid click on each wire connector...some reviews said otherwise.

These are for pre 2006.
 

thebat

Silver Supporter
gmcman- Do you have the part number for that fuel pressure regulator? The only thing I could find was the fuel tank pressure sensor, which is on the fuel pump. Mine is the 4.2i, like the OP.

I have to change the fuel pump this weekend or next, luckily it's covered under warranty.

I highly agree with gmcman's points on the wheel hub, bearing, and the spare tire!
I had to cut mine spare tire out with a torch, not fun. His other points were good as well, I just didn't want two long posts with the same data.

@Beacon - Be careful when purchasing that serpentine belt. There are two different sizes. I believe our belt for the 97x 06-08 is the shorter belt. I think it's because the alternator pulley is larger on the other models/years.
What do you mean 'our belt?' Which is the correct size for a 2005 TB I6 LT?
 

Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
What do you mean 'our belt?' Which is the correct size for a 2005 TB I6 LT?
Sorry, serpentine belt.

I believe the size should be 2320mm. That's the size I used on my belt and it seems to be working fine.
I think the other size is 2325mm but, I'm not 100% sure on that.
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
I'm all for going to the parts stores, but I just won't get my serpentine belt anywhere but the dealer. I'm sure others have had no issues, just personal preference. You never know if another belt was accidentally placed inside a different sleeve and you're going to be hard pressed to eyeball a few MM difference.

Long story:

Case in point, gave same advice to friend for their Explorer and they insisted their friend at the parts store has the correct part. I installed the belt and all seemed tight and worked initially with no squeals and I checked for overheated pulleys as well. I told them to keep the old belt just in case.

On their way down the interstate while on vacation, loaded down with gear and kids, they called me and said there was a terrible squeal, I said the belt is likely the wrong size and has stretched enough to provide slack. I said to change to the old belt even if you need a shop to do this. If you keep driving it will likely destroy whichever component the belt is slipping on if it doesn't break beforehand.

Advice not heeded, kept driving and smoked either the alternator or water pump..cannot remember which. Had a 40 mile tow and overnight stay.

Point of my ramblings, always carry the old belt, and ensure it's OE length.
 
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