Maverick6587
Member
It was from AlldataIs the wiring diagram you have specific to the VIN of your truck?
I did this and the meter read 3.20I'm really leaning towards deleting all posts before this one as they were in the totally wrong direction. The wrong schematics have been used since the beginning so we were not working on the right thing at all.
Attached is a printout PDF from GM-SI and is IRREFUTABLE as being correct for a 2006 TB. Fuse 26 IS ALWAYS POWERED. FULL STOP. FUSE 26 IS NOT AT FAULT. END OF STORY. It's doing what it's supposed to do.
Forget about fuse 26 for now. You have to do a parasitic draw test. This video is pretty good except for a few things:
- To disable the interior light, I would use a screwdriver to close the door latches with the doors open.
- When you first connect the MM to the battery, it may spike in amps for a few minutes as modules power up. Wait for several minutes to let everything go back to sleep
- For your first initial test, pull fuse 26. If that doesn't drop the amps, then it's not at fault. Put it back in.
- Remove the 125A megafuse to eliminate, or point to, the rear fuse box.
- Pull one fuse at a time until the amps drop.
Report back with the amps being drawn and if you found the faulty circuit.
I removed the 125 mega fuse and tested and the meter read zero, but that's what it should read because now there are no cables attached to the fuse box.I'm really leaning towards deleting all posts before this one as they were in the totally wrong direction. The wrong schematics have been used since the beginning so we were not working on the right thing at all.
Attached is a printout PDF from GM-SI and is IRREFUTABLE as being correct for a 2006 TB. Fuse 26 IS ALWAYS POWERED. FULL STOP. FUSE 26 IS NOT AT FAULT. END OF STORY. It's doing what it's supposed to do.
Forget about fuse 26 for now. You have to do a parasitic draw test. This video is pretty good except for a few things:
- To disable the interior light, I would use a screwdriver to close the door latches with the doors open.
- When you first connect the MM to the battery, it may spike in amps for a few minutes as modules power up. Wait for several minutes to let everything go back to sleep
- For your first initial test, pull fuse 26. If that doesn't drop the amps, then it's not at fault. Put it back in.
- Remove the 125A megafuse to eliminate, or point to, the rear fuse box.
- Pull one fuse at a time until the amps drop.
Report back with the amps being drawn and if you found the faulty circuit.
I removed the 125 mega fuse and tested and the meter read zero, but that's what it should read because now there are no cables attached to the fuse box.
Like Mooseman has mentioned the 125 fuse only supplies power to the Rear fuse block. The front is powered as long as the terminals are connected to the battery.I removed the 125 mega fuse and tested and the meter read zero, but that's what it should read because now there are no cables attached to the fuse box.
All the transmission solenoid are new from ACDELCO. The transmission was back to working great until I restored power to the evap solenoid. I didn't have the draw problem until I got power to the evap solenoid. I left the 26 fuse in last night plus the evap solenoid plugged in and I have a dead battery this morning. So that's 2 nights 26 fuse plugged in I wake up to a dead battery. The 2 days I took the fuse 26 out I woke up to a fully charged battery.you might consider looking a little closer at the transmission codes (pending or otherwise) to see if there is some hint of a stuck solenoid or something like that which could be a source of draw.
I followed the video you sent me. That's less draw then Eric had and his was from just a little dome light.So if it's reading right, that would tell me it's something in the rear fuse box that's drawing. What is the current draw with the fuse in?
Edit: OK, saw that the draw is 3.20. Is that AMPS? If it is, that is really high. What scale are you using on the MM?
Maybe Mooseman can confirm but looks like the transmission circuit is a switched circuit so it probably wont be the source of your problem.
Ok so first I'M SUPER GRACIOUS FOR EVERYONE'S TIME AND HELP!!!Is the wiring diagram you have specific to the VIN of your truck?
Really confused on why you would ask that as everything asked of me I've done!Are you following our instructions and requests? It's difficult to keep helping if you don't do as requested. We're trying to go in a methodical manner to eliminate things now that we have the correct schematics.
You have to do a proper parasitic draw test. You can pull fuse 26 first if you want but it has to be done. If it is fuse 26, then I would disconnect the PCM and do another draw test. If the draw does drop, then I would be looking at the PCM as being faulty if it's sending ground to the solenoid when it's not supposed to.
Circuit/System Description
An ignition voltage is supplied directly to the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge solenoid valve. The EVAP canister purge solenoid valve is pulse width modulated (PWM). The scan tool displays the amount of ON time as a percentage. The control module monitors the status of the driver. The control module controls the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve ON time by grounding the control circuit via an internal switch called a driver.
His opinion was that the transmission solenoid wasn't recieving power.
And he believes I'd get lucky and find out why fuse 26 is hot all the time if I could find out why the transmission pink wire wasn't recieving power, especially since they are in the same wire bundle.
I'm trying to get someone to hold the probes on the terminals to do the draw test. Its seems like I have to really have them on there good for the draw number to stay steady. I've tried tape and clamps but neither worked.OK, it might look like we're getting PO'd but we're not. I think we're just as frustrated as you are. You may be doing it but I think we're lacking details as to results you're getting. So far, these are what's missing:
I'll be the first to admit that we don't know everything but neither does the dealer.
- a complete parasitic draw test. Which circuit dropped?
- if fuse 26 dropped amps?
- if it was fuse 26, draw test result of unplugging the PCM
- if disconnecting the new wire stops the draw (@budwich )
Sorry but I think he's wrong here. It could be an error in their software. I looked at the schematics for 2005 and, just like the 2006 Rainier, it was switched by ignition. The 2006 TB is not switched. It could have been old info in the description. Could have been the same thing in AllData.
He's probably right about that one. Or wiring. Seen that lots of times here.
It's hot all the time because it's supposed to. If the tranny pink wire isn't getting power, then that's something else. It does have its own fuse. So that would need a circuit check.
But we need to fix your current draw first. Tranny is a separate issue in my opinion.
Sorry I'm not good at explaining things or even communicating for that matter so PLEASE don't take this the wrong way, and I'm not being rude but the ONLY THINGS I'm convinced of is I have a problem that I'm probably making it harder on myself because I don't know exactly what to do or how to precisely do it.Blueking25.... I think you have given us "almost enough" information to finally nail this. 😄
First, you are convinced that the circuit associated with fuse 26 is causing a significant drain such that the battery is dead "quickly". Good, accepted, then this should be your focus.
Next, remember that you provided us with the resistance measurement leaving the fuse towards ground... it was around 140-180 ohms (not solid). Even with simple electrical math, this means a draw of about 6-9 ma.... which isn't really enough to kill a battery although it might add to an already "marginal load" (another story / issue). So what does this mean? Well, you need to do one more resistance measurement... basically, the same one but this time also having the pcm disconnected from the circuit... the result should be "open / infinity". IF it is not, you have found your likely problem on this "circuit"... being somewhere from the fuse output to the pcm cable connector.
IF this latest resistance is "infinity", then this potentially means that there is some sort of issue at the pcm itself... either internally or maybe at the connector (contamination). To support this "theory"... one explanation about the "140-180" ohm measurement ( which might be low)... this measurement is done using a meter "supply" of a few volts to measure the resulting current flow to "meter calculate" the resistance. However, this low "meter voltage" may not be enough to actually cause a "breakdown" of the electrical components inside the adjoining pcm circuit (ie. things like "weak" FET's, diodes, capacitors,etc). Hence, even thought the metered resistance, that you see may be somewhat OK, the operational resistance at "12 volts" maybe quite difference due to component "breakdown".
Anyway hope you understand what I have said. I think you are close and with the little extra test, you may have a better "guess" at where the problem lies. Please note, the reason for doing this test like this, resistance as opposed to current, is that potentially a current test may damage your meter IF the current goes large (more than 10 amps in most cases).
Lastly, and somewhat related, if indeed, your PCM has some sort of internal issue, this may reflect on others areas "indirectly" which could be why you had some of the other codes pop up.
That's my story for your story. Hope the rain ends soon and you can get further on this.
Look... I can see that we / you are getting no where along with further frustration.Sorry I'm not good at explaining things or even communicating for that matter so PLEASE don't take this the wrong way, and I'm not being rude but the ONLY THINGS I'm convinced of is I have a problem that I'm probably making it harder on myself because I don't know exactly what to do or how to precisely do it.
And the other thing I'm convinced of is I need help!
With that being said I somewhat understand what you are saying.
Are you saying I need to buy a new pcm? If not could you please explain a little more exactly what you are saying I should do?
I'm definitely going to do the draw test for mooseman.
Also the tests I've done have been with the pcm hooked up and taken out of the truck with the same results. Does that matter at all?
Also this probably has been addressed before so I'm sorry if it has. But I just want to get it out my head. The evap vent valve next to the gas tank is tied into fuse 26 and the purge solenoid. When I back probe it I have 12 volts at both wires. I know I'm not supposed to. And wonder if I had a short somewhere in the wires that run the length of the truck would that be causing any of my problems? Or am I getting the wrong readings because of what's going on up front?
If it's not an issue or nothing to worry about please just say so and I'll forget about it.
Sorry guys! I'm having some health issues. I suffer from really bad migraines. And it's just me and my dog so when I have them I have to pretty much deal with them myself. And most of the time I can barely get up from the bathroom floor until the migraine let's up a little. They make me throw up and dry heave really bad. I usually can't do much for a couple days, it's actually hard typing this. But I'm going to try and get back at it tomorrow.If there's a pick-a-part nearby, PCM's can be had pretty cheap. Just a security relearn and good to go. I agree, parts shotguns should be banned
Thanks alot, I really appreciate. I haven't found any relief yet. I only have Medicaid and it's like having nothing. If and when you find a doctor to accept it they rarely give a dam. Just a sign here, try this and see you next month. From my experiences anyway. My migraines are extremely bad. This is the first day since I don't even know what day I had the migraine attack that I have done anything.Take care buddy and I feel your pain. I had them for 20+ years and I was the same. Only narcotics would work for me. So thankful that I have outgrown them.
Thank you for the quick response!I'd still check to see if the vent solenoid is drawing power when the ignition is off to be on the safe side. Sometimes it can take a drive cycle or two for codes to come up unless it's a hard error like no power to the tranny solenoids.
The ABS will be for another thread!
When I test doing it across the connectors for fuse 26 I get 12.6 volts.Kinda. Do it across the connectors for fuse 26. That will definitively say if it's the solenoid killing your battery.
Take it easy if you're not up to it. I feel your pain.
Sorry, I've had a rough week.Not for voltage, amps. Set the DMM to amps, like in the video.