Power to a swiched fuse with key off

Blueking25

Original poster
Member
Feb 19, 2019
58
New Castle, Delaware
So maybe we licked it? You did pull the fuses right?
Sorry Moose! I know I'm a pain in the ass! But I'm trying.
That's where I got confused, I thought when you said across the connectors I thought you meant the 2 little metal points on top of the fuse. That's how I first did the test.
My multimeter's probes are to big to fit in the fuse slots, so I cut 2 pieces of wire. I took the fuse out, put the wires in place of the fuse and tested that way touching my probes to the wire ends. They read 0.00 that way also.
I have a feeling you're going to say I'm doing it wrong! So I'm sorry!
And if I'm doing it wrong could you please explain exactly the way you want me to do the test or tell me of a video I could watch that would have me doing what you ask?

Thank you
Ed
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
I think you got it right this time (surprise! :biggrin: ). So it looks like the evap solenoids aren't pulling any amps so we're good there. Just hope it isn't another circuit that's possibly draining the battery.

Fingers crossed! :wooot:
 

Blueking25

Original poster
Member
Feb 19, 2019
58
New Castle, Delaware
I think you got it right this time (surprise! :biggrin: ). So it looks like the evap solenoids aren't pulling any amps so we're good there. Just hope it isn't another circuit that's possibly draining the battery.

Fingers crossed! :wooot:
Well I'll be dam!!!!!!!
I have everything hooked up for the night, the battery is fully charged. And I guess we'll see what happens in the morning? Hopefully the volts are still the same!
I just hope that when I tape everything back up and rearrange all the wires were they are supposed to be that everything stays good! THAT'S WHAT IM WORRIED ABOUT!!!!

On a side note I checked the ABS plug (I HAVE JUST THE 1 BIG RECTANGLE CONNECTOR) for battery voltage at both pins (WHICE I DO).
And I checked continuity to both grounds on the plug (WHICH ARE BOTH GOOD).

So tomorrow I'm going to go to the parts yard and get a ABS unit and switch out the modules.
Do you think that is a wise decision?

I'm going to check continuity from the PCM to the ABS plug once I figure out which wire it is. Is this also a wise decision?

Thank you all so much! If this really all works I'm going to be extremely grateful! Not to mention excited!
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
This thread has run its course, providing the original issue with the battery drain is fixed. The ABS would be a separate issue so it should have its own thread in the appropriate section.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
Of course, we know what the fix was :smile: Some how, I don't get the feeling that the "herring" has been "cooked" but the outcome appears to be good.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
That's why I said "looks like" and "hope". Time will tell. :squint:
 

Blueking25

Original poster
Member
Feb 19, 2019
58
New Castle, Delaware
That's why I said "looks like" and "hope". Time will tell. :squint:
Well just when I was going to tell everyone one it's fixed and I can't believe it, the friendly Check Engine Light comes on with the code P0445.
The evap was the only system I needed to get ready to pass inspection.
I'm honestly so beat down by this!
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
the evap test doesn't run all the time and hence the "false sense" that you got that you fixed everything didn't take that into account. Hence, it is likely that the cricuit associated with fuse 26 is still "swimming" around... :smile: Of course, it could be more of a physical problem associated with vacuum as opposed to electrical... but since you haven't thoroughly checked the circuit out, it can not be ruled out from the code setting. Hopefully, your battery is still holding up.
 

Blueking25

Original poster
Member
Feb 19, 2019
58
New Castle, Delaware
the evap test doesn't run all the time and hence the "false sense" that you got that you fixed everything didn't take that into account. Hence, it is likely that the cricuit associated with fuse 26 is still "swimming" around... :smile: Of course, it could be more of a physical problem associated with vacuum as opposed to electrical... but since you haven't thoroughly checked the circuit out, it can not be ruled out from the code setting. Hopefully, your battery is still holding up.
Battery is doing great.
Do you have a suggestion of wha to do next besides jumping off a bridge?
I was going to get it inspected today but this has really screwed everything.
Crazy part is about 20 minutes before the code came on I said to myself "well Ed you didn't win the lottery but at least your CEL isn't on anymore"!! When it came on I wanted to jump out the door going 60!

Thank you for your time.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
As suggested earlier, you need to do a resistance measurement of the circuit to understand what its "makeup" is electrically. Depending on results, you go from there.

The "drain test" or lack thereof (ie. no drain) tells you nothing about what is actually going on in the circuit since a disconnected / broken circuit may not drain anything which is great for "no drain" but doesn't help if the circuit is supposed to be doing something. Further, you need to read or find out when the evap test run, ie. under what conditions to see what is need to cause an activation or not.

Not sure how specific this "quick grab" is:
"When the leak test is performed, the vehicle must have been sitting for at least four to eight hours so that the engine temperature and outside air temperature are identical. There must also be between 15 and 85 percent fuel in the tank—this is to provide a baseline for the test since gasoline and diesel are volatile fluids that expand and vaporize easily with warm temperatures."
 

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