NEED HELP Power Steering Various Problems and Questions

[PProph]

'03 TB LTZ
318xxx km

Heyo, more fantastical power steering issues. Hadn't done much to address the leak I referenced in this thread:

Power steering leak at rack connection

Hey everyone, it's been a long time. I was sidelined for a while due to a chronic pain condition, and as such I took my '03 TB off the road at the time. Been driving some more lately, and looking to get the ol' girl up and motoring again. There's a few issues, but for the most part she runs much...

gmtnation.com

TL : DR, replaced all my PS lines in spring 2020, but screwed up one of the connections at the rack trying to get the cup seal out (protip, it was already out and I'm an idiot.) Used Edelmann lines. Now to my current issue.

Just been topping up the PS fluid when it goes low, and getting around that way since my screwup. Well, earlier this month it was cold one morning, we made a trip to the other end of the city, went in a store, and when I came out and started it back up, a connection on the rack to cooler return line came apart. Limped it home (yeah, probably not a great idea), parked it. It had come apart at a connection, shitty clamp. Replaced that spot with a gear clamp and I was up and running again. Fast forward to Christmas Eve, had since been driving it fine, even up to the city the night before when it was -30, no issues. Did some running around before planning to head out to my family's. Stopped and got gas, started it up, there goes another connection. Limped it home again, this time it was the next connector on the same line. Replaced with another gear clamp. Drove fine on Christmas night. Fast forward to Boxing Day (our Christmas supper was delayed due to weather), drove it around the block to make sure it was good. It was fine. Shut it off. Packed up. Started it up again, no power steering AGAIN. Have had it parked since, haven't checked. Not sure if I wasn't able to tighten that second clamp enough or if it's another connection down the line. The clamps on those Edelmann return lines are pure garbage.

So, at this point, I'm just wondering what I should do. As to my previous issue, I probably need to replace the rack anyways. To the current issue, I wouldn't be surprised if I've contaminated the system at some point causing a blockage and pressure buildup somewhere. I suppose I could also have a failed cooler (I see I could test that by bypassing which I might try). Or else I could have a failed pump. I've run it low several times over the last year and a half, so that's a real possibility. Part of me is really considering just doing an entire power steering replacement, the rack, the pump, the cooler, and at least the one return line, if not all. I think the Edelmann pressure line is good, but those clamps on the return lines are just trash.

Anyone have any suggestions on how I should proceed? Should I try to isolate and replace one thing at a time? I just figure if I put new everything in, I know the system won't get messed up by something else that's not been replaced, if you know what I mean. It's not a small bill, but we're also looking at a newer (to us) vehicle and the market is BRUTAL right now, so extending the TB's life would quite likely save us quite a bit down the line with the hope that the used market gets better.

*Edit, also saw the idea of using ATF instead of PS fluid for lower viscosity. Won't help my leak problem but might help my pressure problem? Is this something I should try also for the short term?

As usual, any advice is much appreciated!

 

[Mooseman]

Return lines typically don't have a lot of pressure in them unless there is some sort of restriction or, if it's brutally cold (like >-20c), it could be a bit higher than normal. I once had a tranny return line blow off when it was -30c but it was an aux cooler rubber line that was slipped on a cut off hard return line and the worm clamp wasn't tight enough. Maybe that's all you needed was better clamps. You could also double clamp to be sure.

I use Dex VI ATF in my PS with no issues. It's probably the same thing. Seems less stiff in the morning. I know that ACDelco sells a lower viscosity power steering fluid in Canada, maybe the US too, for cold climates.

To get rid of the leak at the rack, you're likely gonna have to replace it as you probably damaged the port. If you get a rebuilt, don't get a Cardone. I've had better luck with a used rack than Cardone.

Unless your cooler is rusted out or leaking, I wouldn't bother replacing it. Maybe just put some brake cleaner in it and blow it out with compressed air to be sure it's not clogged for some reason. If it is rusty and you think it may fail, Dorman does have a replacement made of aluminum. I was able to find one of those at the u-pick yard for cheap. That's also where I got the rack from. Just check that there are no leaks inside the boots. I did have to replace the inner tie rods.

For the pump, unless it's being noisy or having pressure issues, it might be fine. Again, Cardone is junk. I've had good luck with ACDelco rebuilts.

 

[PProph]

Alright, thanks for the response. With this Sask winter we're having, i ain't headed to a wrecker any time soon. Maybe there was a time, but I can't be bothered. The pump is only making noise when I know the system is low, but like I said I have ran it low a couple times, not to mention twice running it with the hose blown off to limp it home, so I could definitely see it being failed. I assume it's the original pump, though I don't know that for sure. Perhaps I could bypass the cooler and/or try to test it with air, and then rule it in or out as a culprit. Might replace the pump anyways, probably should do the rack too. Had thought to try some high temp gasket maker where that cup seal goes in to fix up my scratches as a stop-gap, 'cause I know that rack is a beast.

Either way, I'll be sure to avoid the cardone, and perhaps the first thing i'll do is just tighten up my lines and see if I can find a LV PS or ATF to put in the system as well, maybe do a flush while i'm at it.

 

[Mooseman]

You could certainly bypass the cooler if needed. Especially in winter, it won't get hot. In fact, a lot of people just bypass it permanently as there is the thought that in years gone by, there were no steering coolers. You could then replace it in more clement temps.

 

[PProph]

Aye, thinking i'll probably do that and get a lower viscosity fluid in there, replace any shitty clamps i can find and then see what happens. Thanks for the feedback, I will keep this thread updated.

 

[gmcman]

Unless your cooler is rusted out or leaking, I wouldn't bother replacing it

That was my guess. I believe his cooler is rusted. If original you can likely bet it's close to having issues.

Not a hard swap, but take a flashlight and look in the lower portion of the front bumper cover.

Also, did you replace the two O-rings in the rack where the 2 lines enter?

Be careful, that bolt doesn't take much torque.

 

[PProph]

That was my guess. I believe his cooler is rusted. If original you can likely bet it's close to having issues.

Not a hard swap, but take a flashlight and look in the lower portion of the front bumper cover.

Also, did you replace the two O-rings in the rack where the 2 lines enter?

Be careful, that bolt doesn't take much torque.

On the '03 where the lines go in we have those stupid cup seals, which is what I detailed in my other thread. As for rust, entirely possible but I don't live in a rust belt, we don't use salt to nearly the same degree in Sask as in other provinces, and most of my driving is done on the backroads that don't get any at all. Not saying rust isn't possible, it IS a 20 year old ride, just saying it's not as likely as it would be in other places. I will check it anyways though. Regardless of the cause, if the cooler is the problem, bypassing it should improve my situation and stop my blow-aparts. I have it parked in my garage while I'm at the in-laws', so when I get back to it I'll try the outlined plan (bypass cooler, better clamps, maybe a small amount of high temp gasket maker where those cup seals go in where I scratched the heck out of the rack.) Got a call in to my car guy too, we haven't been able to connect yet though. I always value the advice from GMT though just because of the specialized knowledge everyone here has on this platform.

I will keep you all posted, cheers!

 

[paul2005tb]

About 5years ago I had a PS cooler leak, Im convinced that its low OEM placement below the front bumper and the salting of the New England roads led to its short lifespan. I cut it out and kept the existing aluminum lines that were mounted below the radiator frame and circle in front of the radiator. I bought a small transmission cooler (which was actually bigger than the OEM PS cooler) and hosed it up. All was well, or so I thought.

Now the fun part, I developed a PS leak, ( suspect that when the original cooler failed I must have slightly damaged the pump or overheated something). In the process of scoping out the solution and trying to find out where the leak is would add PS fluid). To slow down the leak I added some 90weight gear oil to dramatically slow the leak until I can find where the leak is coming from. So far performance has been unchanged. Im not advising to do this but if you are in a real pinch with a PS leak then putting heavyweight gear oil in there can at least get you home or buy you a few weeks to find the problem. I only have 160k miles on this vehicle and I do have other vehicles I can drive but for me the diagnostics takes time.

 

[paul2005tb]

I have now made the conclusive determination that my leak is coming from the power steering rack. I will replace it but as I look at the condition of the lines and the relatively low cost to replace them I am now inclined to replace the lines as well. Should I replace the pump while Im at it... to be determined and to be continued !

This is the most enjoyable vehicle I get to drive. It is just that the trailblazer is not an easy vehicle to work on. It would cost more than Im willing for a mechanics time. Its not a great DIY vehicle for an intermediate skill level to take on the PS rack replacement. But the difference between 400$ in parts and a 1200$ garage mechanic bill tells me all I need to know.

 

[mrrsm]

You are NOT Kidding... Trying to R&R the Trailblazer and Envoy Rack & Pinion Steering AND Hoses and Cup Seals is something to be compared with:

"Trying to Take Your Pants OFF... Over Your HEAD..."

Start the Viewing of this Repair Debacle with a One Hour Instructional ...Just to Whet your Appetite for the coming Mechanical Miseries. Take Note of the fact that the VOP (Video Original Poster) ... Let's call him "Home Slice" is Smoking a Cigar that has soaked up all that Black Oil Mung from his Filthy Fingers... MAN! WTF is WRONG with THIS Dude?:

CAUTION: Don't Forget to Tie Down or FIX Your Steering Wheel in a Straight, Neutral, Unmovable Position so that it will NOT be able to move and Destroy the Air Bag Clock Spring!

Then Observe THIS Dude employing his *Trick* to Loosen R&R the Big Bolts holding the Rack & Pinion Gear in Place:

And to give you an idea of what this additional Agony looks like "Up Close and Personal"...Observe this Dude struggling with trying to get the Power Steering High Pressure Line Hose Cup Seals R&Rd. THIS is One Outrageously Greasy, Disgusting, Uncomfortable, PITA Job:

If you decide to Buy ALL of what is needed and deliver the Parts and Seals and Hoses and PS Fluid to your Mechanic... Check out EVERYTHING that RockAuto has listed for sale HERE:

2005 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER 4.2L L6 Steering Parts | RockAuto

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[Mooseman]

If the rack itself is leaking, try BlueDevil stop leak. It worked for me. Won't help for leaking lines though.

 

[gmcman]

Can you post a pic of where it's leaking?