Power steering lines

coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Just ordered some power steering lines and a cooler for the truck.. Shipped today... Gonna dive into it next week. Any hints of advice as I prep for that to come?
 

Chemman

Member
Jul 13, 2013
35
Maryland
Jack up the front end, put the TrailBlazer on jack stands, remove the driver's side front wheel and wheel skirt, spray down the various clips and fasteners daily with Kroil beginning a few days ahead of time, give yourself plenty of time and take frequent breaks. That's how I would do it if I have to do it again.

Worst part for me was trying to finagle the hoses into position without bending or breaking them. It helps if you can grow a couple of extra arms and hands.
 
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coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Jack up the front end, put the TrailBlazer on jack stands, remove the driver's side front wheel and wheel skirt, spray down the various clips and fasteners daily with Kroil beginning a few days ahead of time, give yourself plenty of time and take frequent breaks. That's how I would do it if I have to do it again.

Worst part for me was trying to finagle the hoses into position without bending or breaking them. It helps if you can grow a couple of extra arms and hands.
It's going to be a one day project. Morning to evening. Most of the clips and what not have oil/fluid on them from previous repairs. I have seen a few videos of different people changing them and some different tricks. I'll have it up on ramps and stands so I'll have plenty of room to work. I think i'll go the route of trying to pass the lines through the fender area by removing the upper control arm.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
I found this old post for some tips:

I would also remove that rubber isolator on the top of the shock tower. That's the cause of the rotting lines as water gets trapped in there. I did and just zip tied them to each other as a preventive, hoping to never having to do this.
 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Found and even better one:
 
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coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Well, looks like it will be a multi day project, got a bunch of stuff pulled off today for prep. just need to disconnect lines and replace now. Got rained out. Hope to have it completed tomorrow afternoon...
I would also remove that rubber isolator on the top of the shock tower. That's the cause of the rotting lines as water gets trapped in there. I did and just zip tied them to each other as a preventive, hoping to never having to do this.
mine arent leaking under the isolator, the lines looked amazingly good under there. I'll probably just clean the rubber up and reinstall it. Mine is leaking near the crimp and the cooler is toast.
 

coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Got the lines wrapped up today. Not as rough as I was expecting, but not a simple job. I opted to remove the fuse box as the service manual states. Worked out fine. I did end up having to pull our the pump as I could not get the pressure line off the pump... my wrenches kept round it off. cut off the line at the nut and used the impact to remove, no issues there. Reinstall pump and continue on. Had a small leak initially after startup but found I didn't tighten the retaining plate bolt enough. Seems to have stopped the leak. I just need to get some degreaser to clean the underside and recheck for leaks and it's all good to go. Only broke a few clips and one of the bolts that hold the bumper cover on.
 
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coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Well new situation... the line is still leaking at right at the rack... seems the new style line won't tighten up enough to secure it and has a loose fit. Anyone install the new style lines with the o-rings and what was your outcome?
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Did you remove the old seals first? Also, that 8MM (I believe) bolt doesn't get much torque, be careful tightening it.
 
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coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Anyone seen something like this? I wonder if the mounting plate only fits one way? Seems like it could be either way. Guess i'll look at it sometime this weekend or next week.


edit: thinking about it... I don't know if i put both o-rings on or just one.... hmmm
 

Stugar

Member
Apr 17, 2019
48
Michigan
The return line doesn't have a "new style" with o-rings I didn't think. The return cup seal stays in the rack every time I've removed a line (way too many times now!), so as long as you don't scratch it up it should seal up since it's not really dealing with much pressure. If you removed the cup seal though I'd be amazed if it's not puking out fluid.

Also, there's a few places for fluid to leak that all look like it's coming from the same place. I had leaks from the pressure lines from the control valve to the cylinder itself, and also had one catastrophically leak out of the steering input shaft seal, filled up my steering shaft boot with 1.5 qts of PS fluid in a hurry.
 

coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
The return line doesn't have a "new style" with o-rings I didn't think. The return cup seal stays in the rack every time I've removed a line (way too many times now!), so as long as you don't scratch it up it should seal up since it's not really dealing with much pressure. If you removed the cup seal though I'd be amazed if it's not puking out fluid.

Also, there's a few places for fluid to leak that all look like it's coming from the same place. I had leaks from the pressure lines from the control valve to the cylinder itself, and also had one catastrophically leak out of the steering input shaft seal, filled up my steering shaft boot with 1.5 qts of PS fluid in a hurry.
It is leaking from the pressure line where the new style o-rings are. The return line still uses the old cup seal and I did install a new seal on that. The pressure line is not seating fully even with the bolt tightened fully, I can physically move the pressure line and see oil leak around it. I think it is a faulty line connector and or mount plate. I purchased the AC-Delco lines direct from rockauto. I will have to pull the connection out and check the o-rings. I wish I still had the original installation sheet for it, but I tossed that along with the old cup seals.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
When I replaced my steering rack recently, the rack came with two new seals, one for each line.

I would replace both seals with new ones, then further assess the situation.
 
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coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
When I replaced my steering rack recently, the rack came with two new seals, one for each line.

I would replace both seals with new ones, then further assess the situation.
Problem is, I don't know where to find new orings for the pressure line... it doesnt use the old cap seals....
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Should be avail from the dealer.

@coolasice Edit. What is different about your steering lines and rack?
 
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Stugar

Member
Apr 17, 2019
48
Michigan
You can probably get an o-ring kit that will get you an o-ring that's close enough. Harbor Freight sells large kits of both metric and SAE o-rings, there SHOULD be something close enough in those to get your stuff sealed.
 

coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Well checked again... seems to have stopped leaking after I torqued the bolt down....no idea... we'll see in a few weeks what comes of it.

now I need ball joints and sway bar links... fun times
 

coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
SO... now 8 months later, found a puddle under the truck.. awesome... reservoir is empty but pump still has fluid left in it... filled the reservoir back up and have no idea where it leaked from... cleaned the area with degreaser, and started the truck and let it run for 15 mins... no sign of a leak? so weird.

on a side note... my lower control arms are rusted to hell, one has a hole in it... need new ones... went truck shopping and couldn't stomach the prices right now... blah
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Maybe the rack itself or the cooler?
 

coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Maybe the rack itself or the cooler?
cooler was new with lines, it's coming from near the inlet lines to the rack, but i can't visibly see it leaking. i've had it running for 20 minutes and not seen a drop under the truck, its baffling
 

JayArr

Member
Sep 24, 2018
504
Mission BC Canada
It may not leak with the steering wheel centered. IIRC the center position has the pressures balanced and the pump doesn't really have much to do.

You may want to try putting it on jack stands and turning all the way one-way then the-other to extend the rack while revving the engine to develop pressure in the pump.
 

coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
It may not leak with the steering wheel centered. IIRC the center position has the pressures balanced and the pump doesn't really have much to do.

You may want to try putting it on jack stands and turning all the way one-way then the-other to extend the rack while revving the engine to develop pressure in the pump.
tried that... lock to lock held while revving, no drip... took it for a short ride earlier... its now sitting with cardboard under it...
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
lock to lock held while revving
I strongly advise against doing this. Guys have destroyed their pumps essentially doing donuts in snow at full lock. Snaps the pump shaft.
 
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JerryIrons

Member
Dec 20, 2011
434
I don't think it's the revving that does it, I think it's the full lock that has a tendency to kill the pump in trailblazers when doing donuts.
 
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coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Well been about a week since the leak... not a drop out of it... sooo weird. anyway, I got my control arms replaced, only did the arms and not the brackets... bushings seemed in ok shape. Seem to have a bit of a clunk on turns, I think its my sway bar link, they were loose initally and tightened them up after replacing the arms, either that or I forgot something which I know I didn't.
 

JerryIrons

Member
Dec 20, 2011
434
The end links? Those things can loosen up by breathing on them it seems. I threw the torque specs out the windows and get them solid by
1) Using red loctite
2) tighten them down by hitting with a hammer
3) let the vehicle sit for 24 hours to let the loctite firm up.

Of course, you will need the hot wrench to remove them in the future, but here in the rust belt where I live I get that out anytime I'm doing suspension work anyway. If you can find a speed bump to go over slowly with just one wheel you can narrow it down sometimes.
 

coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
The end links? Those things can loosen up by breathing on them it seems. I threw the torque specs out the windows and get them solid by
1) Using red loctite
2) tighten them down by hitting with a hammer
3) let the vehicle sit for 24 hours to let the loctite firm up.

Of course, you will need the hot wrench to remove them in the future, but here in the rust belt where I live I get that out anytime I'm doing suspension work anyway. If you can find a speed bump to go over slowly with just one wheel you can narrow it down sometimes.
It's an 08, there are no end links... It's a straight shaft like older trucks. It's the left side I know, not sure if I got the lower arm bolts tight enough,. I had to guessetsimate as I couldn't get in there with my long torque wrench for the rear bolts.
 
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coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Well here we go again... the stupid pressure line is leaking once more.... what a pain in the ass. Looking to order the oem design pressure line this time, but can't find the acdelco model in stock anywhere. Anyone have luck with Gates or Edelmann? Also have to replace the ignition switch and can't find acdelco of those anywhere either! dang it.


On a side note... found that clunk... was the drive shaft u-joint that was smoked....
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
I think OEM and ACDelco are dropping our platform since it has been out of production for over 10 years now as their parts are getting harder to find. The ignition switch you might still be able to find. I Googled D1426D and AutoZone shows as still available.

Where is it leaking? If it's at the rack fitting, could just be the seals.
 

coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
I think OEM and ACDelco are dropping our platform since it has been out of production for over 10 years now as their parts are getting harder to find. The ignition switch you might still be able to find. I Googled D1426D and AutoZone shows as still available.

Where is it leaking? If it's at the rack fitting, could just be the seals.
Yea, at the fitting... there is only an o-ring on the pressure line (new style crap)... I ordered a gates old style line... hopefully that fixes the issue.. just have to wait for amazon to ship it. Also ordered a new switch... not ac-delco, another brand that had good reviews. acdelco still makes both parts, just none to be had in stock, lead times are january for most stuff. also ordered a new steering wheel position sensor as mine has gotten flaky again.
 

coolasice

Original poster
Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Well, spent the day fixing the power steering lines out in the snow... fun times, got the new line installed, seems to fit better, time will tell if it leaks also. went ahead and replaced the switch and steering sensor that showed up today.
 

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