The power steering cooler is leaking on my 05 TB. Reading online, some people say the unit can be removed without taking off the bumper cover. Others say this is only possible on the Envoy. Has anyone here done this job on a TrailBlazer and, if so, is the front bumper cover removal necessary? Is there any way to get at the mounting bolts without taking the bumper cover off? For those that don't know, the factory cooler is steel and is a common issue for leaks. Dorman makes a direct replacement that is aluminum. Thanks in advance for all help.
Power Steering Cooler Replacement
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Thanks for the reply and I agree. That is why I am wondering if it's feasible to replace the cooler without pulling the bumper cover. I am hoping just removing the grille will allow access. Maybe taking out the fog lights? I'm just speculating at this point though. Hopefully someone here with a TrailBlazer that has done this job will reply.
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Taking out the fogs won't help as it doesn't open up much of a hole to get to it.
My cooler was bypassed by the previous owner years ago when it rusted and leaked. Easy enough to do without taking the cover off. As far as replacing it without removing the cover I'm not sure. I've looked at mine but not at how to get to it. You could mount the replacement in a slightly different place to make it easier if you wanted I suppose. I really don't know why one is really needed on a stock vehicle to be honest.
My cooler was bypassed by the previous owner years ago when it rusted and leaked. Easy enough to do without taking the cover off. As far as replacing it without removing the cover I'm not sure. I've looked at mine but not at how to get to it. You could mount the replacement in a slightly different place to make it easier if you wanted I suppose. I really don't know why one is really needed on a stock vehicle to be honest.
I should really take a temp measurement on mine on a desert trail ride where I'm using the steering a lot. It might be the designers just found they needed it to keep the fluid from breaking down in Phoenix in the summertime. If I bypassed mine, I'd be anticipating changing the fluid a lot more often than 100K, though.Sparky said:
Did mine last winter and yes had to take off the bumper cover and such. Its not a difficult job just lots of clips and parts to remove to get to it. Believe I got the replacement part in 2 days from rock auto and had everything off waiting on the part.
Agreed, 
but I learn a lot out there that might help you guys. Have you ever felt your bypass hose to see if it's getting hot driving around town?
but I learn a lot out there that might help you guys. Have you ever felt your bypass hose to see if it's getting hot driving around town?Roadie did you use an elbow, hard brake line, or something different to do yours? Do you remember what size the inside diameter is of the line? Did you just reuse the original clamps? Thanks for the info. Mine needs to be bypassed before I can even drive it home from work today.
I never had to bypass mine. I'm just interested in how hot it gets without being bypassed. To see if it's really needed.
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
Is there any metal parts that are relatively accessible that touches hot PS fluid? I mean, besides the cooler, as that is gone for half the test anyway. A simple mounting of a thermocouple to that and run the meter inside the cab. Could possibly pop the thermocouple wire through the wiring grommet in the firewall and run down to some part to measure, it all depends on how long your wire is really.
Then monitor! A lot of the more expensive multimeters have a min/max display, so you can see easily where it peaked at without having to constantly scope it. Could even allow the meter to be temporarily rigged somewhere out of the way in the engine bay to have better access to a good test point, then get the min/max after the drive.
Then monitor! A lot of the more expensive multimeters have a min/max display, so you can see easily where it peaked at without having to constantly scope it. Could even allow the meter to be temporarily rigged somewhere out of the way in the engine bay to have better access to a good test point, then get the min/max after the drive.
seanpooh
Member
- Jan 24, 2012
- 461
What I did was buy a small version of a transmission cooler (to fit alongside my actual tranny cooler already mounted), mounted it in front the radiator. Then cut the old PS cooler off BUT left the piece of the original cooler mounting on the driver side with the two elbows and bolt still attached. It's the little section you would disconnect to do a PS flush.
From there I ran the in and out fluid flow connecting 3/8" fluid line from the elbows to the external cooler. I wouldn't say easier than a R&R of the stock cooler but no removing the bumper if any problem arises.
From there I ran the in and out fluid flow connecting 3/8" fluid line from the elbows to the external cooler. I wouldn't say easier than a R&R of the stock cooler but no removing the bumper if any problem arises.
meerschm
Member
- Aug 26, 2012
- 1,079
the question is what the corner case is that drove the engineers to include the cooler in the first place.
I am sure driving to the store and back in nice weather you would never need it.
I suspect the worst case (except for off-road) would be in a heavy, wet, snow. or perhaps an improperly loaded trailer.
or perhaps on the beach, which qualifies for off road.
I am sure driving to the store and back in nice weather you would never need it.
I suspect the worst case (except for off-road) would be in a heavy, wet, snow. or perhaps an improperly loaded trailer.
or perhaps on the beach, which qualifies for off road.
meerschm
Member
- Aug 26, 2012
- 1,079
when I did mine, I not only had to pull the bumper cover, but also the bumper.
took a few photos, which are here.
http://gmtnation.com/forums/gallery/album/104-ps-cooler/
had a little DIY put together before the latest site move, but if anyone has questions, please let me know.
it was the first time I ever pulled the body plastic fasteners, so a few close ups of what they look like are included.
the hardest part I remember was getting the rubber hose off the end of the cooler. again, not hard, but the first time is always a little tricky, if you want to reuse the parts, that is. (probably applies to quite a few things.....)
took a few photos, which are here.
http://gmtnation.com/forums/gallery/album/104-ps-cooler/
had a little DIY put together before the latest site move, but if anyone has questions, please let me know.
it was the first time I ever pulled the body plastic fasteners, so a few close ups of what they look like are included.
the hardest part I remember was getting the rubber hose off the end of the cooler. again, not hard, but the first time is always a little tricky, if you want to reuse the parts, that is. (probably applies to quite a few things.....)
Wooluf1952
Member
This is from Jegs.com:meerschm said:
They help keep under hood ambient temperatures from overheating your power steering pump to extend service life and maintain steering feel and performance.
IIRC, Cickenhawk had a post on the OS about police vehicles having Heavy Duty PS Coolers for hi-speed pursuit.
Could also help for sustained hi-way driving.
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
Not just for extended highway driving, but likely for successive quick maneuvers, as all the action of moving the wheel back and forth may lend itself to more heating up much more quickly.
I ended up bypassing the cooler temporarily until the Dorman replacement comes in the middle if the week. Lots of conflicting info online as to if the front bumper cover and steel bumper have to be removed or not. Some say yes some say no. I would love to know for sure if the 2 mounting bolts are accessible on a TrailBlazer without the cover/bumper removal and if they are, if the cooler can drop out of it's mounting area without any other disassembly. Thanks again for all of the help.
Thanks meerschm. Not what I was hoping for, but it is what it is. I also have some seepage on one of the lines where they go up over the top of the drivers side wheel well. The lines all look fine except in the areas where the rubber insulation is. I guess my move will be to replace all 3 lines along with the cooler all at once. Sounds like I am going to be in for a long day when I do it.
Thanks. I am going to start a new thread about the lines. From what I can gather so far, there are different versions available.
RD Joe
Member
Hey all, new guy here. I know this thread is older than dirt, but I used it along with a few others for research on the topic before I tackled the cooler swap. I've got an '03 Envoy SLT with 120,000 miles, and, as happened to many of you, the PS fluid cooler rusted out. I went with the Dorman unit, and it's fine so far (just did a 250 mile round trip yesterday). A few things I noted:
- I tossed around the by-pass idea, but, after not finding any definitive engineering bulletins (I'm an engineer, so that's what I look for) on nominal operating temp range and the need for a cooler, I decided to just replace it rather than by-pass it. I'm in FL so heat is definitely an issue. All I could conclude is that the engine block and head being aluminum dissipate heat more efficiently than cast iron, so likely higher underhood temps. Combined with the fact that the PS pump is mounted on the exhaust side, the operating temp of the PS fluid was probably at the upper limit of nominal operating temp range which probably led the engineers to add a cooler for an extra safety factor. Just my thoughts on "Why a cooler?"
- The *bumper* does not need to be removed - only the grille and the bumper cover. A few small bolts and plastic clips and pulling the fog bulbs, and that's about it.
- The hardest part was getting to the tangs on the upper hose clamp at the cooler nipple. The tangs on the bottom hose face outboard, but the upper ones were facing inboard making that the PITA of the whole job.