Possible splined disconnect issue

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Recently if I hit a decent bump with the RF tire, it sounds like a can of marbles from the RF until I slow down a little, then goes away.

The 4WD works fine otherwise.
 

gmcman

Original poster
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Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I don't believe so..this can happen at 20 MPH and the noise is quite rapid. Sounds almost like the ABS trying to operate but this happens without using the brakes.
 

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Slight vibration felt..its rapid like the abs but only on that wheel. Was thinking the jolt would try to engage the disconnect but no braking is felt.
 

gmcman

Original poster
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Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I got a closer look and the bearings are gone. I'm going to replace the disconnect, any recommendations on which brand to get, or avoid?

Rock Auto has this one, says it's for the XL but iirc, they are the same.

 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Aye caramba! That is expensive. eBay has better deals


Just be careful you don't buy the AWD version which doesn't have an actuator.

This one is the cheapest but comes without the actuator motor:

This one comes with the actuator:
 

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Thanks for the links. I was searching and found many different vendors, wasn't sure who to go with. I agree $300 is pricey...I will likely try the one you listed with the actuator.


Thanks again.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
It is cheaper to rebuild but that takes a lot more time. And if your housing busts during removal, you have to replace it then anyway.
 
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gmcman

Original poster
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Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I picked up an actuator but the housing is different, although the mounting bolts line up.

Is this a redesigned housing or from a different model?

Screenshot_20190527-235121_Gallery.jpg
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Apart from some extra tabs, the bolt holes seem to line up. Could be an aftermarket thing.
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,045
Brighton, CO
That doesnt look to the right carrier. The axle thruput is in a different location, at least it appears that way to me. The actuator is for sure in a different location. The left one, the right bolt is inside the 2 bolt holes, and the right one, the right bolt is to the right of the 2 bolt holes.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
The throughput location is just the angle of the picture of the old one. Location of the actuator is the same. If you shave off the extra tabs on both of them, they are the same. The orientation of both are the same.
 
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C-ya

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Aug 24, 2012
1,098
Last edited:

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,045
Brighton, CO
Looking at the metal to the right and left of the output, it just doesnt look right to me. I could be wrong.. But the spacing looks completely off to me.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Must be angle, because holes look right but spacing looks off.
 

C-ya

Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,098
My old one looks like the new one, so it must have been replaced at some point before I bought it 7 years ago.

aA1lF4N.jpg
 
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gmcman

Original poster
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Dec 12, 2011
4,656
My old one looks like the new one, so it must have been replaced at some point before I bought it 7 years ago.

aA1lF4N.jpg


What year is yours?

Mine is an 02.


Here's a better view, I angled them so it's a more straight-on pic.

Screenshot_20190529-065936_Gallery.jpg
 

C-ya

Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,098
Mine is an '05.

ETA: I wonder if the shape of my old one is a redesign? My truck had 130K on it when I bought it so I wouldn't have thought it would have been replaced in that time period. It did come off very easily, though. As in, it fell out when I got all three bolts loose. I was stressing that I would have to beat on it a bit.
 
Last edited:

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
I've seen both housing types. Both work. I think your old one is an old housing design. I would just put it on and not worry about it.
 
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gmcman

Original poster
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Dec 12, 2011
4,656
According to my buddy at the dealer, when I tried to get a new oil pick up tube, he said the tube was discontinued, but the later years are avail. However the oil pan part number is different for the new pick up tube.

Perhaps the actuator changed with the oil pan part number.
 

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Another question, is this setup missing a part? How does the actuator engage and disengage the 4WD?

Looks like there should be something the actuator would move.

Screenshot_20190530-142902_Gallery.jpg
 

C-ya

Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,098
@gmcman , that is how my new one looked, as well as my old one. The actuator just extends and pushes the part in the recess to engage it. It works...
 

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Ok....what puzzles me is I don't have any part inside the housing or plastic actuator.

This could be the AWD version which seems to simply connect the intermediate shaft to the CV axle with no actuation. If I understand the AWD setup correctly.
 
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TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,045
Brighton, CO
The AWD version is completely a different beast. There is no actuator, so you have the right part.
 

C-ya

Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,098
If it is still out, push the recessed part. Or look at the old one. The actuator just extends out and pushes that keyholed part. Or at least that's how I think it works. Like I said, it works. Mine does.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
The AWD that hole is blank so definitely not an AWD model.
 

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
The keyholed part of my new one is just a keyhole, there's nothing in there...in case it appears that there is...just an opening, nothing for the plunger to contact.

Is that normal for selectable 4WD?

Screenshot_20190530-220135_Gallery.jpg
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
That thing you're looking at in there is what is pushed. That is the face of the fork IIRC and the actuator just pushes inward. Push your finger in there and you'll see. Or, just bolt the actuator in place and call it a day because that's all you really need to do :wink:
 
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gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Daggone....lol.....I've looked at this a few times and didn't catch the fact a 3/4" round actuator may push on a 3/4" round aluminum plunger....:poke:

I don't have them in front of me but I can see it in the pic what you're referring to.....so before you ask....

maxresdefault-1.jpg



SuperTroopers.jpg

I'm tellin' ya....this week has been crazy, I had a total mental block on that. I'm usually better at figuring these things out.

For some reason I thought a metal arm and plunger protruded into that cavity.

The seller wants to make good and get me the identical part, I'll let him know this will likely work but will see what he says.
 
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hockeyman

Member
Aug 26, 2012
726
Oh man, just looking at that disconnect reminds me of when I replaced mine!
It took me quite a while to remove the old one from my transfer case.

Within one year:
Between needing a new disconnect, replacing trans lines and a fuel neck, ongoing issues with the radiator fan, having to completely rebuild the trans, and the frame beginning to severely rust, I got tired of it "nickle and diming" me and traded it in for an Acadia. I do miss my Envoy, but seriously needed something more reliable. Strange, but I now find myself being bored at times and kinda wished I had something to work on...
 

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