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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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Check the vent line from the canister to atmosphere to be sure it's not clogged with dirt. Otherwise, it should be fine unless the lines are full of fuel.
 
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Stuntmanmike1977

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Nov 21, 2021
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Sanford, Maine
Check the vent line from the canister to atmosphere to be sure it's not clogged with dirt. Otherwise, it should be fine unless the lines are full of fuel.
Well I got the lines off breaking the clips in the process but couldn't figure out how to get it out. So, I just pushed lines back on. Getting replacement clips later. Idk. There was no fuel in liquid form but it had a strong gas smell.
 

mrrsm

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Good Idea... No sense in "Trying On New, High Top Sneakers... While Wearing DIRTY Socks..." By The By... You KNOW this "Pearly Gates Part" of the lecture already... But JIK... NEVER use Pure O2 to Blow Out any Fuel Lines or any Clogged and-or Fuel Soaked Charcoal Canister. For obvious reasons, use Low Pressure Compressed Air or even better, Dry Nitrogen is the Best Choice of ALL. :>)
 
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mrrsm

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First... The Very BEST Video covering the explanations on the differences between the various Fuel and Evap System Lines and the "How To" repair and HOW TO REMOVE THESE DAMNED CLIPS are covered in Post #6 in this Thread:


...with THIS Video (Well Worth, Downloading, Saving and Playing at 1/2 Speed to see all of the subtleties in action):


More from GM ...


Broken Evap Line Repair:


Second... The other unique aspects of trying to clear the offending line (probably clogged with Carbon Dust coming from the Charcoal Canister) is covered in THIS excellent On Topic "How To" Video":

 
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Stuntmanmike1977

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Nov 21, 2021
150
Sanford, Maine
The lines are unclipped. The canister itself I can't pry out mainly because the shop that replaced my leaking fuel filter connector ran a regular fuel hose right underneath the canister and curved it around it to a new connector to the filter instead of using a 90 degree fitting or replacing the line itself from the filter to the tank. Got the screwdriver in the slot and twisted it but not far enough to release it from the frame. I don't have much room to work with. The shop wants 200 to get it out. Not paying that. The fuel filter is right next to it so not much room for prying.
 

Stuntmanmike1977

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Nov 21, 2021
150
Sanford, Maine
Finally got the new canister in. What a pita! Could not blow out the lines though. Will do that when I drop the tank for the fuel pump. Any extra connectors or parts I might want to have on hand just in case something breaks? Only have one chance at this since I'm not doing the job at home. Fittings and or connectors that like to break? If anyone has part numbers by chance would help Immensely. I don't want to do it but, can't find anything else it would be.
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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mrrsm

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Can you open this Image into a Microsoft Paint Program (or similar graphics editor) and after drawing a Red Circle around the parts you are addressing... Post that modified image here?

evaplines.png

The Complete Replacement Hose assembly is available on Amazon via this Link:




51OD-T-KYrL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
51GHs5pMgOL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

51xuxJGDLfL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


...and the Evap Canister Purge Line too...


516KKT8wPbL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

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Stuntmanmike1977

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Nov 21, 2021
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Sanford, Maine
Not pictured. Just the fuel lines from pump to the filter or the disconnects above the tank. I'm not sure, this is the first time I've dropped a tank. Or new ends for the lines that attach to the pump.
 
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mrrsm

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Probably... Especially if your driving motivation here has to be more about economics than about doing things properly.... Necessity is often a "Stone B***h" in such circumstances. But I am reluctant to add my contributions towards doing anything that involves controlling Explosive Fuel Vapors that side-step Normal Repair Protocols by using Non -OEM Replacement Components in lieu of the "Real Deal Parts" that are often called for. If you have to eventually visit an Inspection Station ...and they *Spy* that 'Off- Brand Solution' buttoned up under there... it might draw the wrong kind of attention to the issue... and a Hefty Fine if the Inspector takes a dislike to you... :>(
 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,605
Ottawa, ON
Can you just run regular fuel injection hose and clamps instead of messing around with the quick disconnect set-up or will it not hold up?
I wouldn't recommend it since it's high pressure fuel from the pump and the metal line at both ends doesn't have a bump or lip to prevent it from slipping off.
 

Stuntmanmike1977

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Nov 21, 2021
150
Sanford, Maine
Well, unfortunately the new vapor canister did absolutely nothing! Guess I wasted 130 bucks. Pump shut off at 3.6 gallons and came up the fill tube. Before I drive this into the river, does anyone have any more advice for me? The only thing I have not changed out was the solenoid on the side of the engine and the fuel tank pressure switch?
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,605
Ottawa, ON
Did you replace the vent solenoid? Without an appropriate bi-directional scanner, it's difficult to diagnose these things. If you can verify that the tank is venting when shut off, that would confirm if it's venting and allowing air and fuel vapours to get out while filling.
 
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mrrsm

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Roger THAT ...and while we are on the subject of obtaining an Affordable Bi-Directional Scan Tool... consider visiting THESE eBay Links to the GM VXDIAG VCX NANO Device that will allow for the use of a Laptop Screen and a Program that can "View and Emulate The Tech 2 --- To A "T"..."


Visit THIS link for additional information on the VXDIAG NANO Device:

 
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mrrsm

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You know this operational description already, Mike... But as an FYI for those either "Lurking" or following this Thread as Members... The EVAP Solenoid mounted on the Driver's Side of the Engine activates on Start Up to evacuate whatever Fuel Vapors have been previously accumulated inside of the Charcoal Canister. As soon as the Motor turns over, the presence of that strong vacuuming action of NA (Natural Aspiration) sucks those fumes in through the Throttle Body (Intake Manifold) ...ASAP... and this leaves the Charcoal Canister freed up afterwards, ready to absorb more Fuel Vapors whenever needed.

The Fuel Vapors (AND LIQUID FUEL) will accumulate inside the the Charcoal Canister to EXCESS if that Engine Side EVAP does not regularly OPEN and evacuate or function properly. The Fuel and Fumes that back up will become absorbed by the Activated Charcoal Beads-Pellets inside and whenever there is just TOO MUCH Fuel Vapor left over, the EVAP System will post DTCs as per the EPA CARB Standards and insist that the Vehicle Owner-Driver NOT allow all of that stuff to leak out into the atmosphere.

Whenever the Fuel Nozzle *Kicks Off* prematurely while fueling up at the local Gas Station, its sensitivity is set to Stop The Gas Pump ASAP whenever it determines the slightest resistance to the in-flow of Gasoline or before the Pump Dumps Fuel all over the feet of any absent-minded Drivers. It serves as an Early Warning and Fueling Safety Apparatus built by design to ensure that all of us are maintaining our Closed EVAP Systems up to par at all times... and what better way to do this than by simply... Stopping The Flow of the Gas... and providing us with a cascade of P04XX Codes?
 
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Stuntmanmike1977

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Nov 21, 2021
150
Sanford, Maine
The weird thing is I haven't had a check engine light on for almost a month now. So, difficult to know if a sensor is bad or not. I can probably get more into it when I drop the tank. I also have a new fuel tank pressure sensor on the way.
 
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Stuntmanmike1977

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Nov 21, 2021
150
Sanford, Maine
As far as the fuel pump change, I don't know exactly what I have as far as connections on the fuel pump. Was going to buy new ends just in case something breaks. Do I need the pinch tab and pull type or the U shaped plastic clip type or does it matter? And is it 1 3/8 connector and 1 5/16?
 

mrrsm

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Given what a PITA it is to access and R&R... replacing EVERYTHING both On Top of... at the Rear of ... and Inside of that Fuel Tank while the doing of it is actually fairly easy... while using only The Best of the OEM Parts and Pieces that are available ...Makes Perfect Sense... Assuming that our Folks' Wallets ...can take the monetary hit.
 
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mrrsm

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If you are using just the Fitting Pieces to accomplish a variety of replacement EVAP Plastic Tubing Repairs... The Best Advice would be to "Belly Up at the Parts Counter at Auto-Zone" and after providing the necessry Vehicle Data to the Counter-Person... Ask them to:

"Make a Pile of EVERY Possible Fitting that I might need to use ...AND... Give me a Roll of the Dorman EVAP Tubing for BOTH Sizes... and I'll bring back whatever I have not used for a Refund."

This way... You won't need to make more than Two Trips...One Before doing all of the Necessary Work ...and One Afterwards in order to Return Whatever You Don't Need ... :>)

PS...Ask them if they also have any "Loaner Tools" for Mechanically Inserting those EVAP Hose End Pieces into the Plastic EVAP Tube Sections... and save yourself the Headache of trying to FORCE them all the way inside!
 
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Stuntmanmike1977

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Nov 21, 2021
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Sanford, Maine
Sounds like a plan. Thanks to everyone for all the help. I'll post back when it's done. Hopefully, this solves the fuel gauge issue. I'm guessing they put a cheap pump in there.
 
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mrrsm

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There are only Two Kinds of Cheap, After-Market, *** Non-OEM Fuel Pumps:

(1) Those that HAVE Failed...

(2) And... Those that are GOING to Fail.


*** Bosch, ( SCRATCH ----> Delphi ) and ACDelco... in THAT Order!
 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,605
Ottawa, ON
*** Bosch, Delphi and ACDelco... in THAT Order!
Just for future reference, I would remove Delphi as a recommended brand as there have been documented failures of new units here.
 
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mrrsm

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Will Do.... Scratch ----> Delphi
 

Stuntmanmike1977

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Nov 21, 2021
150
Sanford, Maine
Well, I stopped at the pump and shoved 10 dollars in the tank. BAD fuel smell in the cabin. Checked the fuel pressure regulator, lines, filter all dry. Fuel however spilled over leaking down the back driver side quarter panel right near the outside vent in the back of the truck. I'm guessing that's where it's coming from so I covered it with tape. I'm guessing that's it. Turned the heater on and no smell from the vents so. Anything else I can check cause I'm taking it to get the seat fixed in the morning and it's almost unbearable to drive.
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,605
Ottawa, ON
At this point, I would suspect a problem with the filler neck valve in the tank. Either it's stuck closed or it's missing allowing the tank to get overfilled and spew fuel out the filler. I had that problem on the Avalanche where the valve broke off in the tank, it would overfill the tank and allowed fuel to get sucked into the charcoal canister. I had to replace the tank. For the TB, there are filler neck replacement kits available.
 

Stuntmanmike1977

Original poster
Member
Nov 21, 2021
150
Sanford, Maine
Will try that again. The gas tank was replaced with a new one about a year ago. Replacing all the sensors when they get here and gonna make sure the flapper is still free. And, before I put the fuel pump in should I coat the top plate and the lines so they don't rust or can I fluid film it when the lines are back on before I put it back up?
 

Stuntmanmike1977

Original poster
Member
Nov 21, 2021
150
Sanford, Maine
If you are using just the Fitting Pieces to accomplish a variety of replacement EVAP Plastic Tubing Repairs... The Best Advice would be to "Belly Up at the Parts Counter at Auto-Zone" and after providing the necessry Vehicle Data to the Counter-Person... Ask them to:

"Make a Pile of EVERY Possible Fitting that I might need to use ...AND... Give me a Roll of the Dorman EVAP Tubing for BOTH Sizes... and I'll bring back whatever I have not used for a Refund."

This way... You won't need to make more than Two Trips...One Before doing all of the Necessary Work ...and One Afterwards in order to Return Whatever You Don't Need ... :>)

PS...Ask them if they also have any "Loaner Tools" for Mechanically Inserting those EVAP Hose End Pieces into the Plastic EVAP Tube Sections... and save yourself the Headache of trying to FORCE them all the way inside!
I need the clips and or connectors that attaches to the lines to the fuel pump. I can't have any leaks. Should get o rings too I guess.
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,605
Ottawa, ON
I've never replaced the O-rings unless they came with replacement fuel lines. They are special and AFAIK, not obtainable separately. The clips are available from Dorman.
 
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Stuntmanmike1977

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Nov 21, 2021
150
Sanford, Maine
I've never replaced the O-rings unless they came with replacement fuel lines. They are special and AFAIK, not obtainable separately. The clips are available from Dorman.
Do you have a part number by chance? And what about painting or coating the top plate of the fuel pump? Can I fluid film that? Sorry for all the questions I'm doing this at someone else's house and theoretically only have one shot at this.
 

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