Full Size GM Truck Brake Jobs and Wheel Hubs R&Rs are a Dime a Dozen on Youtube with the BEST being done over on Eric “O”s ‘South Maine Auto’ YT Channel. For my Y2K Blue Silverado 1500 RWD… I’ve done what everyone else has already memorialized a Million Times...with just a few additional observations below about these Tasks, with a Link to all my Work as a (64 ) Image Pictorial Walk Through showing these Tasks, The ACDelco, Duralast and Dorman Components, The Prices and The Part Numbers in stages over on my “Flickr-Bucket”:
EDIT:
New Images covering the Complete R&R of the Front Driver's Side ACDelco Disc Brake System were completed on Saturday, 02-08-2020 and added to my "Flickr-Bucket" Album via this Link.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07/albums/72157712978069543
Here are some Additional Suggestions:
(1) Note that the “BIG” Fastener Torque Specs on GM Type 15 Pick Up Trucks are:
(a) 145 Foot Lbs on the 18mm Bolts Bolt Pairs Fastening the Brake Calipers to the Steering Knuckles.
(b) 133 Foot Lbs on the 15mm Triple Bolts Fastening the Wheel Hubs to the Steering Knuckles.
(2) FOR THE SAKE OF YOUR SAFETY… If you use Regular, Brown Lacquered Wire Coat Hangers to Suspend the Heavy Calipers during the work… MAKE SURE TO BEND AND LOOP BACK THE WIRE ENDS AWAY FROM YOUR FACE AND EYES. They become INVISIBLE down there in the Dark… and If you suddenly Make Moves in and out from under the Wheel Well, jockeying for position...You could accidentally Run the Ends of that Coat Hanger directly through your Eye Socket. So… Wear Eye Protection!!!
(3) Use Permatex Orange Thread Locker on the (2) 18mm Coarse Thread Bolts Caliper to Steering Knuckle Fasteners. You do NOT need to apply Thread Locker to the (3) 15mm 10.9 Fine Thread Wheel Hub Fasteners when Torqued to 133 Foot Pounds.
(4) Mind Which Way You Re-Install the Tin Shields Behind the Replacement Wheel Hubs. It is EZ2 Install them BACKWARDS. Other than the serious inconvenience of having to Unwind the Bolts and re-do them, it is helpful to understand that these Galvanized Steel Pie Wedges act more like 'Air Foils' than as "Stone Guards" by guiding Fresh Air directly towards the Disc Platters interior Cast-In Disc Cooling Slots. These ONLY work if installed in the proper orientation.
(5) Use some Powdered Wash Soap with a very small amount of water to Mix into a Paste along with a Stiff Push Broom to Scrub and Clean Up all of that Crap-N-Crud that just dropped down or got Wire Wheeled off of the Lower Front Suspension along with Leaked Brake Fluid onto your Driveway. Do this part BEFORE you Re-Install the Tires and wind up dropping the Truck down off the Jack Stands… Right into the Middle of all that Black, Gooey Mess.
(6) After their removal... use a 3/16” Hex Bit Tool to remove the ABS Sensor HEX Fastener and after wiping it and the Sensor & Wire Harness Down … Drop them ALL into a Zip-Lock Bag and “Tuck it Away...For a Rainy Day...” If the 'Christmas Tree' fasteners become damaged, using pairs of Nylon Zip Ties to re-secure the harness wires to the Upper "A" Frames work just as well. There’s probably Nothing Wrong with any of those parts and its Better to “Have a Spare ABS Sensor, Harness & HEX Fastener and NOT Need one than...” Well… If you live up in "The Rust Belt" ...You know the rest.
(7) Use your Spray Brake Cleaner sparingly ... with Short, Controlled Bursts. For that matter… Let your Wire Wheel Ryobi Tool and a Stiff Wire Brush do MOST of the Work along with some “Elbow Grease” FIRST . This way, you’ll have enough Brake Cleaner Spray left over at the very end of the Job for when you’ll NEED it the MOST: To spray down the Platters and remove any remaining Dirt or Grease off of Everything ...B4... Breaking-Bedding In The Brake Pads.
(8) For that Procedure... The GM OEM "PAPER" Shop Manual Recommends, "Make (30) Consecutive Stops ...at No More than 20 MPH ...Using a Firm to Medium-Hard Brake Pedal and Being Careful NOT to Overheat the Disc Platters between Stopping Efforts..."
EDIT:
New Images covering the Complete R&R of the Front Driver's Side ACDelco Disc Brake System were completed on Saturday, 02-08-2020 and added to my "Flickr-Bucket" Album via this Link.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07/albums/72157712978069543
Here are some Additional Suggestions:
(1) Note that the “BIG” Fastener Torque Specs on GM Type 15 Pick Up Trucks are:
(a) 145 Foot Lbs on the 18mm Bolts Bolt Pairs Fastening the Brake Calipers to the Steering Knuckles.
(b) 133 Foot Lbs on the 15mm Triple Bolts Fastening the Wheel Hubs to the Steering Knuckles.
(2) FOR THE SAKE OF YOUR SAFETY… If you use Regular, Brown Lacquered Wire Coat Hangers to Suspend the Heavy Calipers during the work… MAKE SURE TO BEND AND LOOP BACK THE WIRE ENDS AWAY FROM YOUR FACE AND EYES. They become INVISIBLE down there in the Dark… and If you suddenly Make Moves in and out from under the Wheel Well, jockeying for position...You could accidentally Run the Ends of that Coat Hanger directly through your Eye Socket. So… Wear Eye Protection!!!
(3) Use Permatex Orange Thread Locker on the (2) 18mm Coarse Thread Bolts Caliper to Steering Knuckle Fasteners. You do NOT need to apply Thread Locker to the (3) 15mm 10.9 Fine Thread Wheel Hub Fasteners when Torqued to 133 Foot Pounds.
(4) Mind Which Way You Re-Install the Tin Shields Behind the Replacement Wheel Hubs. It is EZ2 Install them BACKWARDS. Other than the serious inconvenience of having to Unwind the Bolts and re-do them, it is helpful to understand that these Galvanized Steel Pie Wedges act more like 'Air Foils' than as "Stone Guards" by guiding Fresh Air directly towards the Disc Platters interior Cast-In Disc Cooling Slots. These ONLY work if installed in the proper orientation.
(5) Use some Powdered Wash Soap with a very small amount of water to Mix into a Paste along with a Stiff Push Broom to Scrub and Clean Up all of that Crap-N-Crud that just dropped down or got Wire Wheeled off of the Lower Front Suspension along with Leaked Brake Fluid onto your Driveway. Do this part BEFORE you Re-Install the Tires and wind up dropping the Truck down off the Jack Stands… Right into the Middle of all that Black, Gooey Mess.
(6) After their removal... use a 3/16” Hex Bit Tool to remove the ABS Sensor HEX Fastener and after wiping it and the Sensor & Wire Harness Down … Drop them ALL into a Zip-Lock Bag and “Tuck it Away...For a Rainy Day...” If the 'Christmas Tree' fasteners become damaged, using pairs of Nylon Zip Ties to re-secure the harness wires to the Upper "A" Frames work just as well. There’s probably Nothing Wrong with any of those parts and its Better to “Have a Spare ABS Sensor, Harness & HEX Fastener and NOT Need one than...” Well… If you live up in "The Rust Belt" ...You know the rest.
(7) Use your Spray Brake Cleaner sparingly ... with Short, Controlled Bursts. For that matter… Let your Wire Wheel Ryobi Tool and a Stiff Wire Brush do MOST of the Work along with some “Elbow Grease” FIRST . This way, you’ll have enough Brake Cleaner Spray left over at the very end of the Job for when you’ll NEED it the MOST: To spray down the Platters and remove any remaining Dirt or Grease off of Everything ...B4... Breaking-Bedding In The Brake Pads.
(8) For that Procedure... The GM OEM "PAPER" Shop Manual Recommends, "Make (30) Consecutive Stops ...at No More than 20 MPH ...Using a Firm to Medium-Hard Brake Pedal and Being Careful NOT to Overheat the Disc Platters between Stopping Efforts..."
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