Passenger Side Window problem

[jerapi01]

I have a 2005 GMC Evnoy SLT, left windows down a little during heavy rain and now passenger window isn't working properly. It is currently all the way up, but wont go down when pressing the switch down, the switch itself clicks, not the motor or anything. Does this also from the driver side controls. When pressing the switch up it makes sound as if it will go up but cant because it is already up not the same as going down.

So I bought a new motor plugged it up to the switch and confirmed my suspicions the motor would go up but nothing when I pressed down, so problem wasn't the motor obviously. I then decided to order a switch off ebay it was the exact same part number and matched perfectly, but had the same problem so I guess the switch wasnt the issue. I've checked all fuses and relays they seem to be fine and every other window works just fine. Also the locks and mirror on the passenger side door work perfectly its just the window thats the problem.

Not sure where to look now, help please.

 

[The_Roadie]

Welcome! Glad you found us! (Did you go to that "other place" first?) It's almost always the switch assembly (we and GM call the PDM - Passenger Door Module). You might search for that term, or the companion Drivers Door Module (DDM).

Your replacement might be bad. That the motor spins one direction and not the other proves that ground and power wiring is OK, plus the two wires from the module to the motor.

Easy experiment is to swap in your own DDM to the PDM location. Shockingly, the connectors are compatible.

 

[jerapi01]

Thanks, for the reply and yes I used to search the other forum, but seems this is the place to be now. I did actually switch the drivers door with the passenger door and didn't work. There is only one spot where the harness would plug into and i pressed the switch that would usually operate the passenger door from the drivers side, should i have pressed a different one? What else could possibly be the problem. It worked normal until it rained that day, i was able to roll the window down completely at some point that day and put it back up the next day, but hasn't worked since.

 

[The_Roadie]

I haven't done it but it seems reasonable to press the driver's window button on the driver's module to get the LOCAL motor to move even if the module is in the passenger door. Pressing the passenger button on the DDM would not command the module's local lyconnected motor to move, but send a data message along the vehicle data bus.

 

[jerapi01]

I just performed the switch with the drivers door and BOOM, worked like a charm so it's definitely the switch that is my problem. Just my luck that the one I bought off EBAY was bad even though the seller said it worked, he had no clue probably. So now I need to find a switch that works and im in business. Problem is new ones on EBAY are around $150, i'm gonna try to negotiate a better deal hopefully. Any tips on how i could maybe clean the old switch or chances are its fried?

Thanks for the help.

 

[BRomanJr]

I just performed the switch with the drivers door and BOOM, worked like a charm so it's definitely the switch that is my problem. Just my luck that the one I bought off EBAY was bad even though the seller said it worked, he had no clue probably. So now I need to find a switch that works and im in business. Problem is new ones on EBAY are around $150, i'm gonna try to negotiate a better deal hopefully. Any tips on how i could maybe clean the old switch or chances are its fried?

Thanks for the help.

Low probability you can fix it, lots of small and sensitive electronics inside.

Also, be aware a "brand new" switch Module requires Dealer/Tech II programming. Used ones are already programmed.

 

[jerapi01]

Low probability you can fix it, lots of small and sensitive electronics inside.

Also, be aware a "brand new" switch Module requires Dealer/Tech II programming. Used ones are already programmed.

I read that on here in a thread before and wasn't totally sure, but i'm mostly looking at used ones anyway and will steer clear of the new because of this and the price.

 

[The_Roadie]

The stupid horizontal design means a LOT of them are going bad over the years from water injestion. There was even a NHTSA recall on many years of them because there was constant power going to them, and corrosion could start a fire in the module and burn the vehicle and the house it may be near and then everybody dies.

I assume you didn't get a recall letter and that's why you're asking. You might call your dealer to confirm you were outside the recall window, though.

There was a nationwide shortage of modules a few years ago during the heyday of the recalls, and I thought Dorman started offering an aftermarket replacement that didn't need programming. I may be wrong, though.

 

[sLAsh]

I had the same problem with my wife's envoy. My local mechanic used to be an electronic technician. He told me that none of the components on the switch needed to be replaced but in order to fix the switch he had to repair one of the traces on the board. Cost me $80.00 in total including re & re.
He told me he makes a fair amount of money just fixing automotive electronics. A lot of the dealerships and junkyard s in the area send their broken electronics and cores they get from customers to him for repair.
Maybe before you get a new one you try someone who does electronic repairs?

 

[jerapi01]

Well I just ordered a used switch off EBAY for $50. Was suposedly removed from and Isuzu 03-06, however it looked identical to my Envoy switch and the part number was exactly the same, hopefully it will work. Will update when I receive it to see if I have a winner or another dud.

 

[jerapi01]

Just received the switch today and to no surprise, it didn't work. I'm at a loss of what to do now, I can hook up the drivers switch to the passenger door and it works great so switch is no doubt the problem. bought 2 different used switches on ebay neither has done a damn thing even though these idiots said they work fine.

Both used switches have done the same thing as my bad one, the locks and mirror work fine but no window, what are the chances these have the same problem?

A new switch apparently needs programming and is really expensive, but cheaper used ones haven't worked. Any advice?

 

[The_Roadie]

Does the new one have the same behavior? Will lower a raised window but not raise a lowered one? And your driver's side switch works OK? Got a meter and want to troubleshoot deeper?

 

[jerapi01]

Both the used switches and the current bad one do have the same behavior. Window is all the way up currently and when pressing the switch up a small whistle lasting no more than a second is heard indicating its its trying to go up but cant seeing how the window is already up. When pressing down one click is heard a split second after releasing the button and nothing more. Not the same sound as pressing up.

I do have a cheap multimeter but am not very familiar with it, but am willing to try anything pretty much.

 

[Woodsman]

The switch's come out of the door so easy, go to the wreckers and ask them for a switch but insist that you be allowed to test it before purchasing or leaving the lot.
Most reputable yards will be ok with that.
You've wasted enough money to have just bought a switch so insist on a test first.