Parking Brake Cable Replacement

[yar02169]

Last Summer I did new brakes all around, rotors, pads, and a couple calipers. Now I'm replacing the x-fer case, and when I removed it, the parking brake cable is off the equalizer, and one side is frozen. I plan on replacing both parking brake cables, now that there's some room without a drive-shaft in the way. It should be fun as the cable holding hardware looks rusted beyond recovery, but that's not my question.
My question is this; Will all adjusting fixtures (parking brake handle lever and star wheels) reset when I remove the cable(s), or do I need to release the current adjustments prior to installing the new cables? My assumption is that there will need to be re-adjustment once the new cables are in.
In between I'll have the fun of getting the used x-fer case back into place. Getting it out was easy, I don't think the install will be.

 

[IllogicTC]

I would expect there to be some adjustment necessary. You are already aware of the adjustments made at the base of the handle automatically, I assume this is to account for wear to the brake pads and potential cable stretch from use. If you replaced the pads, adjustment may be necessary either way but if you haven't, you may be able to get away with how it is. The only way to know is to actually test the handle when your replacement work is complete and ensure that you don't have to exactly make it point to the sky to get the parking brakes to set firmly.

If I remember correctly, accessing the adjustment hardware is pretty easy as the cover over the handle literally just lifts up, it's not secured at the bottom so you can easily get in there and do what needs done.

 

[Hypnotoad]

If you have ever changed brake shoes, the adjustment is very similar to starwheel adjusters on brake drums, except there's no access from the back side.

 

[The_Roadie]

I wrote a definitive thread on star wheel adjusting on Trailvoy, if I remember correctly. Since they aren't auto-adjusting, and there's no back side access, you have to do the adjustment by removing the rotor, turning the wheel one tooth at a time, lather rinse repeat. I just pull up on the brake cable lever on the backing plate - no need to go all the way back into the vehicle to use the handle.

 

[yar02169]

Quick update.
The Star-Wheel needs to be returned to "Unadjusted" so that the new cables have slack to attach to the equalizer. The passenger side parking cable is relatively easy to replace. The driver's side, well that's a different story. In order to get to one of the 3 bracket nuts, and to remove/feed the old/new cables, the gas tank needs to be lowered. My tank was full and I decided against replacing that it, until I found that's the bad cable.
I used a scissor jack on a cinder block, and a piece of plywood on top of it to disperse the weight. There's a cross bar that's attached to the frame rails that needs to be removed to loosen one of the tank brackets. I then reattached the bar loosely to prevent the tank from falling out by chance. With the tank straps off, I lowered the tank maybe two inches, I didn't disconnect anything on the gas tank. Luckily, I have one of those handy open-end wrenches that have the ratchet action on the other end. Using that, it took about 20 minutes to unscrew the nut and free the old cable. Pulling and tugging, I got the old cable out, then fed the new one through the space above the gas tank and body. Another 20 minutes got the nut back on the bracket bolt, and the other brackets are fairly easy. I doubt this can be done with the drive shaft in place, mine is out while I replace the x-fer case. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the cables attached to the equalizer, proceed with the x-fer case install, then do brake adjusting after the vehicle is back on the ground. Replacing that one cable is a bitch, so prepare for it.