P1484 - Caused by loose wire in fan clutch pigtail - fixed by soldering

TequilaWarrior

Original poster
Member
Dec 5, 2011
578
Central Pennsylvania
Just so others can find it and attempt the repair on the cheap like I did, I wanted to post what happened to me:

I started getting random "Reduced Engine Power" lights and was setting code P1484. After struggling to/from work for a couple of weeks with it like this, I did some digging and found a TSB that mentioned bad wiring connections at the fan clutch. So I drained about 3 inches of coolant, removed the fan, removed the wiring harness from the shroud and clutch and did some ohm metering. I found that the blue lead (not sure what it's for) had it's insulation stretched to the point it was discoloring (turning white). After twisting and wiggling the pigtail with the meter hooked up I found at some positions the ohms on that lead would shoot through the roof, at times it was perfect, and at times it was an open circuit. I pulled the purple center cap off of the plug at the fan end (where the connection was bad), used a screwdriver to release the terminal clip and removed that terminal. By pulling on the lead I could tell that the wire inside was broken and it was being held together by the insulation alone. I opened up the crimp that held the rubber seal at the back and then pulled the insulation off. I wasn't able to open the wire crimp, so I cut the wire back, wrapped it around the terminal and soldered it in place. It took some trimming post-solder to get the terminal to fit back into the plug, but first I recrimped the rubber seal into place. After reinserting the terminal and ensuring it was fully engaged by the clip, I replaced the purple retainer cap and retested all leads - all were fine. Reinstalled the fan clutch and it has been four days and no more P1484. I was setting the code at least once a day before this happened. Sorry I didn't take pictures while doing the repair, I was in a bit of a hurry to get it fixed while the kids were napping. Although, I did find a trick to holding the water pump pulley still that cut my fan removal time to less than 10 minutes - I will have to get a picture of it and post to a new thread. Basically, take a combination or box end wrench that fits the pulley bolts and use it as a fulcrum against another water pump pulley bolt - turning until the box end wrench contacts the damper pulley, from there it can't move and you've got all the leverage you need to remove the fan bolt.
 

ace

Member
Jul 29, 2013
7
Good info, just moved into a comfy place on this site for the same reason, going to be checking this out as soon as its not 100 degree's outside.
 

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,473
Posts
639,776
Members
18,703
Latest member
ckazacos

Members Online