NEED HELP P0171 on my 04 Trailblazer LT won't go away

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,900
Colorado
As far as inexpensive bluetooth adapters go I went through 3 of differing manufacture before settling on the following which was my 4th. I now own three of this unit which have proven themselves.


My first three from other manufacturers also gave me some issues with connectivity, dropping connections and such. I cannot say that it wasn't the fault of the app(s) I was using at that time. They usually maintained connection while using Torque Pro though.

I will add that all of these devices and apps like Torque Pro etc. simply cannot replicate the speed of data acquisition that a professional scantool like the Tech 2 can achieve. This is because they use differing data retrieval methods.

For every dial or graph or what have you that Torque Pro displays there is a query/response that must be sent and recieved sequentially. So if you have 6 data points displayed Torque will ask for the first then the second, then the third and so on. When it reaches the last one it starts back at the first. For each request Torque gets back one response. Then that data point has to wait until all the other data points have been requested and retrieved before it gets another time slice to update the data it got last. Additionally there are some data points Torque asks for that are not displayed, like engine RPM. And all along these messages have to merge in with the normal data traffic of the vehicle. And on top of this Torque sometimes has to alter the request format if it doesn't see a response to a given query. This whole procesure doesn't lend itself to things like graphing a fast changing parameter.

By contrast a Tech 2 knows how to instruct the PCM to create a data packet that can contain as many as 6 data points in a single response message and stream that packet so it doesn't need to be repeatedly asked for with yet another message. Far more efficient.

So when you see graphs from Torque that lack uniformity consider that the data points can be somewhat crude and you likely aren't seeing the peaks and valleys as they really exist. I see you have used the graphing selection from Torque and this is a good choice for viewing things like fuel trims and O2 sensor data. Keeping the overall number of data points displayed low is a good strategy as well. And avoid logging data in the background unless necessary because that adds to the workload.
 

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,900
Colorado
I am posting this picture just because I was reminded of my own experience with exhaust leaks in the area you are investigating. In my case the manifold bolts keep coming loose. All but the rearmost one have been discovered loose! None broken. Maybe some day I will remove the thing and replace the gasket that has to be toast by now.

At any rate, mine has had a very loose manifold and enough exhaust leakage to nearly destroy the power steering fluid reservoir and yet has never set a P0171 code!! Go figure!!


PXL_20210331_181203057.jpg
 

Dudeman

Member
Dec 5, 2021
2
West michigan
Just a couple tips I would like to put out there. 1. No MAF sensor means vacuum leaks are not a cause for fuel trims. High idle yes, unmetered air no. 2. If you ever suspect an exhaust leak causing a lean condition, then watch short term trim while blocking the tail pipe with something like your foot. If trims immediately go down or go negative, there is air getting in the exhaust somewhere. Simple as that.
 

ghost_leader07

Original poster
Member
Dec 18, 2019
152
UAE
As far as inexpensive bluetooth adapters go I went through 3 of differing manufacture before settling on the following which was my 4th. I now own three of this unit which have proven themselves.


My first three from other manufacturers also gave me some issues with connectivity, dropping connections and such. I cannot say that it wasn't the fault of the app(s) I was using at that time. They usually maintained connection while using Torque Pro though.

I will add that all of these devices and apps like Torque Pro etc. simply cannot replicate the speed of data acquisition that a professional scantool like the Tech 2 can achieve. This is because they use differing data retrieval methods.

For every dial or graph or what have you that Torque Pro displays there is a query/response that must be sent and recieved sequentially. So if you have 6 data points displayed Torque will ask for the first then the second, then the third and so on. When it reaches the last one it starts back at the first. For each request Torque gets back one response. Then that data point has to wait until all the other data points have been requested and retrieved before it gets another time slice to update the data it got last. Additionally there are some data points Torque asks for that are not displayed, like engine RPM. And all along these messages have to merge in with the normal data traffic of the vehicle. And on top of this Torque sometimes has to alter the request format if it doesn't see a response to a given query. This whole procesure doesn't lend itself to things like graphing a fast changing parameter.

By contrast a Tech 2 knows how to instruct the PCM to create a data packet that can contain as many as 6 data points in a single response message and stream that packet so it doesn't need to be repeatedly asked for with yet another message. Far more efficient.

So when you see graphs from Torque that lack uniformity consider that the data points can be somewhat crude and you likely aren't seeing the peaks and valleys as they really exist. I see you have used the graphing selection from Torque and this is a good choice for viewing things like fuel trims and O2 sensor data. Keeping the overall number of data points displayed low is a good strategy as well. And avoid logging data in the background unless necessary because that adds to the workload.
Thanks for your respond, the one i have is this on:

I've tested it on a Dodge and it's works fine live data is displayed pretty well however on my 04 Trailblazer it does work with key ON and readings the fault codes but when it turn it on it stays connected but no live data are showing even RPM everything is at 0 expect for the coolant temp, I'm using Torque Pro there's no faults in the adapter status, it did work for awhile hence the data I've provided in my OP but as of right now it refuses to work, any idea what causing this issue? my truck runs "fine" other than that intermittent P0171.

I'd really appreciate your input.
 

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,900
Colorado
I have seen the adapters I have fail to properly switch between vehicles. The vehicle use different protocols and my adapters try the wrong protocol. That said, if your adapter is reading codes that suggests it has the right protocol selected for the TrailBlazer.

Do you have different "vehicle profiles" set up in Torque Pro for the vehicles you have? This can help to keep things straight when using Torque with multiple vehicles. I have several selections.

Screenshot_20211206-091118.png

Also, within the vehicle profile is a setting to instruct Torque to use this protocol or that protocol for the specific vehicle in question.


It seems quite odd that you would see coolant temp alone while other standard data like engine RPM fails. When displaying this "coolant temp" do you see the small green dot slowly blinking?? Seen circled here below. That flashes as data comes in. Not flashing means you are seeing old data, not the actual current status.

Screenshot_20210813-130107.jpg
 

ghost_leader07

Original poster
Member
Dec 18, 2019
152
UAE
I have seen the adapters I have fail to properly switch between vehicles. The vehicle use different protocols and my adapters try the wrong protocol. That said, if your adapter is reading codes that suggests it has the right protocol selected for the TrailBlazer.

Do you have different "vehicle profiles" set up in Torque Pro for the vehicles you have? This can help to keep things straight when using Torque with multiple vehicles. I have several selections.

View attachment 102364

Also, within the vehicle profile is a setting to instruct Torque to use this protocol or that protocol for the specific vehicle in question.


It seems quite odd that you would see coolant temp alone while other standard data like engine RPM fails. When displaying this "coolant temp" do you see the small green dot slowly blinking?? Seen circled here below. That flashes as data comes in. Not flashing means you are seeing old data, not the actual current status.

View attachment 102365
I'm using this OBD2 scanner only on the Trailblazer, I've specifically set a profile for it as you mentioned and it shows the model, VIN and protocol.

You're right about green dot it doesn't show at any of the gauges only on the speed gauge which isn't showing anything either.

Screenshot_2021-12-06-18-43-01-260_org.prowl.torque.jpg

This screenshot was taken with the engine running.

I've noticed a strange behavior with my OBD2 scanner when plugged in with the key in the ON position i have 3 LEDs which are PC, OBD, Power and they're all lit with green LED (OBD) flashing but as soon as i turn the engine on OBD LED turns off and stays off.
IMG_20211206_185354.jpg
 
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TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,900
Colorado
The "Accel" gauge in your screenshot is data from your Android device and as such does not require the OBD2 connection, so that explains why that dial 'works' while the others do not. Torque also has a Speed gauge that uses your Androids GPS so that is another dial that would not use the OBD2 connection.

You mentioned using the scanner on a Dodge, that made me think you had other vehicles that you used the scanner on.

I wonder if the power circuitry in the adapter goes bonkers when your engine is cranking. That cranking usually causes a power fluctuation and this is an issue we have with our cloned Tech 2 scantools as well.

Have you tried starting the engine first, before plugging in the scanner?
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Agreed. Testing the condition Voltage of the "Battery at Rest" (IGN-OFF) and also Testing the Alternator while running will establish any issues with Low Voltage Drop Outs for your DLC Connector (B+ @ PIN 16 and GRND @ Pins 4 & 5).

Having a Battery Maintainer attached and supporting the B+ Feed would eliminate any incidental power draw downs. Ensuring that the Radio, HVAC and any other Non-OEM (USB Power, etc.) Turned OFF will also help to maintain the correct B+ Voltage when connected to the DLC, whether USB or by typical Connectors & Harness.
 
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ghost_leader07

Original poster
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Dec 18, 2019
152
UAE
The "Accel" gauge in your screenshot is data from your Android device and as such does not require the OBD2 connection, so that explains why that dial 'works' while the others do not. Torque also has a Speed gauge that uses your Androids GPS so that is another dial that would not use the OBD2 connection.

You mentioned using the scanner on a Dodge, that made me think you had other vehicles that you used the scanner on.

I wonder if the power circuitry in the adapter goes bonkers when your engine is cranking. That cranking usually causes a power fluctuation and this is an issue we have with our cloned Tech 2 scantools as well.

Have you tried starting the engine first, before plugging in the scanner?
I've tried it with engine running then plugging the OBD2 scanner same behavior. It shows that my obd2 scanner is connected on my Torque Pro app but the little car icon at the top keeps flashing and the app is trying different protocols to establish communication without succuss. As soon as turn the engine off and turn ignition ON it connects fine.
 

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,900
Colorado
the app is trying different protocols to establish communication


So how to you judge that it is trying different protocols??

If Torque is set to a given protocol, in this case SAE J1850 VPW it does not cycle through protocols. (I just confirmed this by monitoring the data bus while Torque was running)

Screenshot_20211206-192347.png


If you mean to say that the car icon keeps flashing - that is just an indication that Torque is sending some standard messages in the current protocol looking for a response from the PCM.

Sorry if this next question has been addressed.... But have you tried reading data with the key ON but engine off? Do you then see anything? Even with the engine OFF you should see something in your boost gauge and engine coolant temp at least.
 
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azswiss

Member
May 23, 2021
871
Tempe, AZ
Does Torque override prior protocol settings in the ELM327 that may have been previsously set via ATSP h command? How about trying to communicate via the Serial Terminal app & reset to auto protocol selection (ATSP0)?

Edit: Or add ATSP0 as the ELM327 Custom Configuration string in the OBD2 Vehicle Editor above)
 
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mrrsm

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Have you tried investigating The Fuse Panel(s) with a DMM for Fuse continuity? Check out Fuse #19 courtesy THIS Link and imagery and... Replace the Old Fuse with a Brand New One:


Also... It would not hurt to spray some Compressed Canned Air over the Fuse Box as a Good Dust-Off and then spraying out Fuse #19's internals with CRC Electric Solvent prior to changing out the Fuse.
 
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TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,900
Colorado
Does Torque override prior protocol settings in the ELM327 that may have been previsously set via ATSP h command? How about trying to communicate via the Serial Terminal app & reset to auto protocol selection (ATSP0)?

Edit: Or add ATSP0 as the ELM327 Custom Configuration string in the OBD2 Vehicle Editor above)

As users we don't get to see the communication between Torque and the OBD2 adapter. Would help a lot!

What I did was first set Torque to "Automatic protocol scan". Then I set up Torque to attempt a connection while I monitored on a second OBD2 adapter. In this mode Torque was seen to send 1 to 3 messages then I saw nothing for about 20 some odd seconds and then a message or two again followed by another 20 something seconds of silence. Resetting Torque to use SAE J1850 VPW resulted in the long pause disappearing and a more steady stream of messages from Torque. This I see as Torque not attempting other protocols but instead concentrating on trying to raise a response from the PCM.
 

ghost_leader07

Original poster
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Dec 18, 2019
152
UAE
So how to you judge that it is trying different protocols??
Sorry i meant when i connect the scanner and open the torque app it cycles through protocols searching for the right one it happens when i turn on the engine.

I'll send you what I'm seeing on the app with with the engine OFF ignition ON
 
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TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,900
Colorado
I did some more testing just now and added to the data trove.

I already knew that Torque Pro can show the connection progress in the Dashboard view. I always start in the main Home screen so I don't often see that connection progress bar in the Dashboard view.

I was under the impression that Torque only tried the protocol that was set in the vehicle profile.

However, I just discovered that even if one chooses a given protocol in the vehicle profile, if Torque fails to connect in like 20 seconds or so it reverts to the Automatic Protocol Search anyway. At least that is what is displayed in the progress bar at the top of the Dashboard view. Is this what you are seeing?? The display at the top of the Dashboard view??


Screenshot_20211207-072611.png
Screenshot_20211207-072624.pngScreenshot_20211207-072643.png




My reason for asking about live data before the engine starts was to try to isolate the issue. If you can read codes at key on engine off then you should also be able to read live data at the same time. This is because they use the very same communications. But having started the engine and all goes in the toilet then that would suggest some issue being introduced by the running engine??
 
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ghost_leader07

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Dec 18, 2019
152
UAE
Have you tried investigating The Fuse Panel(s) with a DMM for Fuse continuity? Check out Fuse #19 courtesy THIS Link and imagery and... Replace the Old Fuse with a Brand New One:


Also... It would not hurt to spray some Compressed Canned Air over the Fuse Box as a Good Dust-Off and then spraying out Fuse #19's internals with CRC Electric Solvent prior to changing out the Fuse.
Just checked #19 fuse and look what I found!
IMG_20211207_124048.jpg
It was blown I've used another 30A and it no longer disconnecting after starting up the engine... Thanks for the suggestion!
 

ghost_leader07

Original poster
Member
Dec 18, 2019
152
UAE
I did some more testing just now and added to the data trove.

I already knew that Torque Pro can show the connection progress in the Dashboard view. I always start in the main Home screen so I don't often see that connection progress bar in the Dashboard view.

I was under the impression that Torque only tried the protocol that was set in the vehicle profile.

However, I just discovered that even if one chooses a given protocol in the vehicle profile, if Torque fails to connect in like 20 seconds or so it reverts to the Automatic Protocol Search anyway. At least that is what is displayed in the progress bar at the top of the Dashboard view. Is this what you are seeing?? The display at the top of the Dashboard view??


View attachment 102386
View attachment 102383View attachment 102385




My reason for asking about live data before the engine starts was to try to isolate the issue. If you can read codes at key on engine off then you should also be able to read live data at the same time. This is because they use the very same communications. But having started the engine and all goes in the toilet then that would suggest some issue being introduced by the running engine??

I did some more testing just now and added to the data trove.

I already knew that Torque Pro can show the connection progress in the Dashboard view. I always start in the main Home screen so I don't often see that connection progress bar in the Dashboard view.

I was under the impression that Torque only tried the protocol that was set in the vehicle profile.

However, I just discovered that even if one chooses a given protocol in the vehicle profile, if Torque fails to connect in like 20 seconds or so it reverts to the Automatic Protocol Search anyway. At least that is what is displayed in the progress bar at the top of the Dashboard view. Is this what you are seeing?? The display at the top of the Dashboard view??


View attachment 102386
View attachment 102383View attachment 102385




My reason for asking about live data before the engine starts was to try to isolate the issue. If you can read codes at key on engine off then you should also be able to read live data at the same time. This is because they use the very same communications. But having started the engine and all goes in the toilet then that would suggest some issue being introduced by the running engine??
Thank you for taking the time and doing the tests.
As @MRRSM suggested i found that #19 was blown felt a bit stupid for not checking with basic stuff first it's working now i turned the engine ON and it didn't disconnect and i can confirm that my obd2 scanner is receiving data however there's still some weird behaviors and massive delays I'll upload a recording of the torque app to see for yourself.
 
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TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,900
Colorado
Have you tried investigating The Fuse Panel(s) with a DMM for Fuse continuity? Check out Fuse #19 courtesy THIS Link


This is very curious !! All the wiring diagrams I have indicate fuse 13 supplies the DLC power. But your linked document states it is fuse 19 and as borne out by the OPs discovery this solved the issue. But why!?! I will check out my own 2002 fusing for the DLC.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,043
kanata
hmmm... it would seem perhaps some "interesting wiring changes" along the way. SM shows fuse 19 as "electric brk" at 30 amp while the "normal" fuse 13 is for the "cig lighter" (feeding the dlc in the schematics) at 20amp.
Of course, there is a "sea of orange" associated with the connections there in so maybe a "wire flip" along with way.... or possibly a late design change to take a blown cigar lighter out of the path as opposed to a "rarely used" electric brake feed.
was fuse 13 checked? is there a "back feed" possibility?
 
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ghost_leader07

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Dec 18, 2019
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This is very curious !! All the wiring diagrams I have indicate fuse 13 supplies the DLC power. But your linked document states it is fuse 19 and as borne out by the OPs discovery this solved the issue. But why!?! I will check out my own 2002 fusing for the DLC.
I did leave my obd2 scanner connected all the time could it be what caused the fuse to blow??

Here's what recorded of my screen



The data doesn't refresh instantly you can see it clearly while monitoring the RPM also the temperature dropping 0c alongside some spikes/drops in the fuel trims, all that I'm getting isn't accurate or reliable, any thoughts on what causing this? I'm suspecting the scanner being possibly faulty.
 
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TJBaker57

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Aug 16, 2015
2,900
Colorado
did leave my obd2 scanner connected all the time could it be what caused the fuse to blow??

Well according to the service literature and wiring diagrams and my owners manual fuse 19 goes to a spot under the dash on the drivers side where it just ends, connected to nothing. It is meant for connecting up an aftermarket trailer electric brake controller.
 
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ghost_leader07

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Well according to the service literature and wiring diagrams and my owners manual fuse 19 goes to a spot under the dash on the drivers side where it just ends, connected to nothing. It is meant for connecting up an aftermarket trailer electric brake controller.
Interesting... somehow it is related to my obd2 port not sure how but since i can access my live data on the torque app now. If you've got anytime please do check my previous post about the strange behavior of my obd2 scanner on the live data feed.
 

TJBaker57

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Aug 16, 2015
2,900
Colorado

TJBaker57

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Aug 16, 2015
2,900
Colorado
somehow it is related to my obd2 port

So I have to ask... Did you buy this truck new? If used then any previous owner could have meddled with the factory wiring and then all bets are off. Anything becomes possible and no amount of referring to factory service manuals is going to straighten out the birds nest that may be lurking under the dash.
 

ghost_leader07

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Dec 18, 2019
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So I have to ask... Did you buy this truck new? If used then any previous owner could have meddled with the factory wiring and then all bets are off. Anything becomes possible and no amount of referring to factory service manuals is going to straighten out the birds nest that may be lurking under the dash.
No i bought it used around 55k miles on it and it does have an aftermarket stereo so someone tempered with the wiring? definitely! however if you take a look at the fuse diagram provided by @MRRSM you can find fuse #19 for (Cigar Lighter, Data Link Connector (DLC) which is exactly what caused my issue.

I'll be adding a remote start kit on my truck I'll make sure nothing is modified down there, i believe the only modification done on my truck is the aftermarket stereo but I'll keep an eye for anything suspicious.
 
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TJBaker57

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Aug 16, 2015
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Colorado
however if you take a look at the fuse diagram provided by @MRRSM you can find fuse #19 for (Cigar Lighter, Data Link Connector (DLC) which is exactly what caused my issue.


The general motors documentation, including owners manuals, say otherwise. That is the peculiar thing here. This is the original owners manual

Screenshot_20211207-100609.png
 
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mrrsm

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FWIW... Considering the presence of the Very Fine Dust from the adjacent Egyptian Desert Environment you live in... and judging from the Serious Friction Wear present on the Cadmium Plated Tines of that Blown Fuse... it might be worth pulling and replacing those Fuses one at a time from the entire Fuse Box after looking them over for similar signs of Wear &Tear. Loose connections often invite Electrical Arcing that makes these issues worse... sooner or later.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,324
Ottawa, ON
Did you wind up with the ghost of my 02 TB? Mine had a dead DLC and one of the cig plugs due to a heated cushion that shorted the wiring. The cig plug I jumped from the other still working one and the DLC I got power from the trailer brake power wire (blue, fuse 19).

Funny I was just talking about this in another unrelated thread.

 
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budwich

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Jun 16, 2013
2,043
kanata
No i bought it used around 55k miles on it and it does have an aftermarket stereo so someone tempered with the wiring? definitely! however if you take a look at the fuse diagram provided by @MRRSM you can find fuse #19 for (Cigar Lighter, Data Link Connector (DLC) which is exactly what caused my issue.

I'll be adding a remote start kit on my truck I'll make sure nothing is modified down there, i believe the only modification done on my truck is the aftermarket stereo but I'll keep an eye for anything suspicious.
AH but.... IF you look at the list in the posted link, it indicates a 20 amp fuse not 30 amp so lots of discrepancies everywhere. As I mentioned, lots of OG wires in the area so perhaps wires can be confused... although it isn't clear what information came from where.
 

ghost_leader07

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Dec 18, 2019
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FWIW... Considering the presence of the Very Fine Dust from the adjacent Egyptian Desert Environment you live in... and judging from the Serious Friction Wear present on the Cadmium Plated Tines of that Blown Fuse... it might be worth pulling and replacing those Fuses one at a time from the entire Fuse Box after looking them over for similar signs of Wear &Tear. Loose connections often invite Electrical Arcing that makes these issues worse... sooner or later.
I'll order a fuse pack and replace them as soon as possible. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
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ghost_leader07

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Dec 18, 2019
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AH but.... IF you look at the list in the posted link, it indicates a 20 amp fuse not 30 amp so lots of discrepancies everywhere. As I mentioned, lots of OG wires in the area so perhaps wires can be confused... although it isn't clear what information came from where.
Yeah i get that but for me it did help me locate the source of the issue, i guess GM did some changes between 2002-2009 to the fuse layouts or something.
 

ghost_leader07

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Dec 18, 2019
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UAE
Did you wind up with the ghost of my 02 TB? Mine had a dead DLC and one of the cig plugs due to a heated cushion that shorted the wiring. The cig plug I jumped from the other still working one and the DLC I got power from the trailer brake power wire (blue, fuse 19).

Funny I was just talking about this in another unrelated thread.

Strangely enough both of my cig plugs were working while my DLC is having all sorts of issues i guess that means that fuse #13 is indeed for cig plugs and fuse #19 is somehow related to DLC at least in my case it did.
 

ghost_leader07

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Dec 18, 2019
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UAE
The general motors documentation, including owners manuals, say otherwise. That is the peculiar thing here. This is the original owners manual

View attachment 102390
Yeah i get what you're saying but it was different in my case despite showing #19 fuse for ELEK brake which was blown and replacing it "fixed" my OBD2 connection issues, it's highly unlikely that someone did something to my truck that caused it to switch fuse connection. :undecided:
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,043
kanata
BUT, you should be somewhat wary. IF you are / will be towing, you might want to ensure what wire is what. It may be "detrimental" to your health IF a trailer brake system is installed and you lose braking at a bad time.

I am guessing "OG" wiring got mixed in some harness / connectors. Anyway, you appear to have solved the "stability issue", now you need to figure out what's up with the datas.

OF course, the somewhat further issue, is why a 30 amp blew in the first place... maybe you have data bus wiring issues ... :smile:
 
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ghost_leader07

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BUT, you should be somewhat wary. IF you are / will be towing, you might want to ensure what wire is what. It may be "detrimental" to your health IF a trailer brake system is installed and you lose braking at a bad time.
I don't plan on towing but if i ever did I'll make sure everything is functioning properly.
I am guessing "OG" wiring got mixed in some harness / connectors. Anyway, you appear to have solved the "stability issue", now you need to figure out what's up with the datas.
I believe my $8 OBD2 scanner is faulty or has some issues communicating with my trailblazer, I'm getting the OBD2 scanner that @TJBaker57 suggested and hopefully it'll show more accurate data streams.
 

mrrsm

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There is a very inexpensive way to Test your Questionable Fuse Links using a Harbor Freight version of a Digital "Fuse Buddy" all the way up to 30 Amps. Something like THIS device could prove quite handy under your present situation:

Harbor Freight Cen-Tech 67724 30 Amp Digital Blade Fuse Tester & Monitor:


These are also available for not too much money under other brand names as well:




Back on the Issue of the Bizarre Behavior from the Data Stream... The OTHER "Player on The Mesa" is the Splice Pack GROUND location positioned on the passenger upper right side of the Transmission Hump. THIS Video shows Where it is located and Why SP-201 it is important enough to investigate:


And as Always... @budwich Asks the Most Important Question...

"What made the #19 Fuse FAIL?"

THIS Video from Duane at "RealFixesRealFast" is a Primer on How to Search and Find an Active Short:

 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,324
Ottawa, ON
Check under the dash for 4 wires that are just cut and taped (blunt cut in the diagram). I'll bet you that somebody before you did like me and used the orange ELEK brake wire (Batt on the tag) to power the DLC. It should look like in this picture, the one on the right with the tag.

img_20180924_153540-jpg.55160

img_20180924_153706-jpg.55161


@TJBaker57 , I'm sure you recognize those hands :smile:
 

mrrsm

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And even still...Yet One More Possible Location can be investigated for an Air Leak that may allow Un-Metered Air to sneak by all of the regulatory devices needed by the PCM to make the right decisions about the proper A/F ratios ...from having a Loose PCV Hose:

041004TS03-222.JPG42494504005_25e70f20e8_c.jpg42494504155_8f578f0ec0_c.jpg43350768252_cd0695a4ef_c.jpg

...and still Available from several Vendors via RockAuto at This Link:

 
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