Ouch, both CV boots are busted and spinning grease around the lower and upper control arms.

[paul2005tb]

When the boots are shot, is it recommended that the entire front axle assemblies be replaced or can I just replace the boots? I have 120k miles and I never drove it hard. I do have the 3in front lift. Im starting to hear a grinding sound like sandpaper when I turn and when I apply brakes.

 

[linneje]

In my experience with this, considering the amount of work that it takes to properly replace the boots, you should just replace the axle. There are 1/2 boots that allow you to replace the boot without removing the axle, but I don't think they work very well. I used a Cardone axle for this about 2 years ago, and it was not expensive and has held up well so far. I did the work myself to save money. But if you get a shop to do it, it can be a little pricey.

 

[cornchip]

Those half boots are awful. The boot is split up the side and when in place is glued with crazy glue supplied in the kit. It's last ditch temporary at best. Replacing the axle will give you the best value.

 

[djthumper]

Get the entire axle and put large hose clamps on there since you have the lift.

 

[Sparky]

Replacement units are only like 60 bucks. Given the amount of fussing it would take to try to replace just the boot, do the whole thing.

Granted, getting those darn circlips to release is sometimes a nuisance, but I'd still rather fight those to get the axles out than mess with those awful boots.

 

[Mektek]

Replacing the boot was a PITA, but at only $8 on ebay it was the cheapest. If you are sure that the joint is otherwise in good condition with no play then it's an option. I separated the inner joint without removing the entire CV axle to get to the outer joint.
Don't even consider split boots - good for a temporary quick fix at best.
A three inch lift is severe service - the joint is always flexing even when driving straight ahead.

 

[paul2005tb]

Id like to just replace the boot but with the 3in lift I am inclined to take your "A three inch lift is severe service" comment to heart and replace the axles. While im at it I may take my 3in spacers out and turn them on the lathe down to a 2.0 or 2.5in spacers.

Now if I am going to replace the axles, should I also replace the hub assemblies, I can get axles and hubs for 250$, that seems like a good deal.

Also, this may sound like a dumb question but what do I do with the old axles once I replace them ?

 

[djthumper]

Unless there is an issue with the hubs I would not worry about them at this time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IYD852/?tag=gmtnation-20

 

[Mooseman]

Also, this may sound like a dumb question but what do I do with the old axles once I replace them ?

Recycle them but you might want to keep a pile until you have enough to bring to the scrap yard to make it worth your while.

 

[paul2005tb]

So the right and left axles are exactly the same!.. That is nice!

Detroit axle vs Cardone ? Any thoughts ?

 

[Mooseman]

I've heard good things about DA. Cardone, not so much but mostly for moving parts like brake calipers and master cylinders. Axles should be OK as they are more like a hard part.

 

[paul2005tb]

Im curious, what exactly causes the boot to wear out ? Is it the rotations that strain the rubber over time or is it just the elements, the road dirt blasting at it ?

 

[Sparky]

Generally it is age, elements, and wear from flex. When the CV is at an angle, the boot is flexing every rotation. That's a lot of repeated, high speed flexing.

 

[Mooseman]

There's also rubbing on itself at extreme turns along with the flexing.

 

[BrianF]

Thankfully mine are still good.... for now. My old 2011 Ram 1500 was just out of warranty and one of the CV boots decided a hole was a good idea. After ripping into the Tb numerous times, this thing was not bad. But what I found, which could be similar to the TB was: The crimp straps (or what ever they are called) to attach the boot were not the right size. I had bought the proper crimping tool but I ended up reusing the old straps and they thankfully never gave any issue to the day it was traded in. In hindsight, the boot was a nice Canadian made part for well over 100 bucks but the BS that ensued was not worth the extra 200 bucks or so to get a new complete shaft. Never again.

 

[paul2005tb]

How do you get that axle housing that is pressed into the gear box out? I pulled the axle out but that big acorn shell shaped part is still pressed in, driver's side. I need to know the right tools and the right angle of attack.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Its not pressed in. just has a lil keeper ring you need to pop it past. Slide underneath and use a piece of rebar or similar to push on the bell and pop it with a hammer. Sometimes one hit pops it ans d other times I have to hit, rotate the bell and hit again. We call the bell the tripot typically if you look at any of the offroad stuff on swapping the CV.

 

[paul2005tb]

I did exactly as you said, I got under there with a hand held 6 lb sledge and a steel chisel. (I also put a kevlar noose around it and tightened that kevlar rope to the suspension strut arm, just to keep it pulled out while I whacked it) . I hit that thing as hard as I could, many times and it finally came out. Friends, that was a bear.

As I look at that little keeper ring, it is amazing how much force a tiny piece of steel can push back. My next thought was, what is that keeper ring really there for ? Does that axle really need that tiny ring to perform right ?

I am thinking of just taking a fine hand file and filing a few thousandths off the back edge of that keeper ring. Not enough to allow it to move, just enough so that the next time I have to replace this axle I dont have to whack it that hard.

Another question, do I place the hose clamps over the existing stainless steel clamp or do I remove the existing stainless and replace with a hose clamp?

 

[Sparky]

I wouldn't do that. If that ring wasn't there, the axle would pop out at any point it wanted or not stay fully seated. Tear stuff up without it keeping things fully seated.

I never did the hose clamp mod on mine, but I think you take the old clamp off and put the new on.

 

[Mektek]

Don't try to reduce the retention force. At high speeds and large suspension deflections there are some significant forces on the tripot and you don't want it popping out accidentally. I used a hoseclamp on the innermost part of the tripot boot because the boot kept sliding off with the recycled original clamp. One small change I did was installing a balance weight on the opposite side of the screw.
I couldn't remove it with a 2.5lb slide hammer - I had to borrow the 5lb slide hammer and axle puller from autozone and then popped out with moderate effort.