The brake booster failed in my 08 chevy trailblazer 6cyl 4wd. I was going to get an oem one from the dealership but they said it was discontinued so I had to get a crap remanufactured one from o'reilly's. It works too well. The pushrod inside of it is slightly too long. The brakes stay partially engaged causing them to overheat in the front. Ik it's the booster because if I unbolt the mc the front wheels spin easily. There is no adjustment screw on the end of the rod I even pulled it out there's no adjustment anywhere on it... Same thing under the dash I couldnt find any adjustments. Only gasket I found was the one between the stock booster and the firewall which I reused. I don't recall seeing one between the stock booster and the mc. I even looked up exploded diagrams and couldn't find one anywhere. What can I do? I was debating on washers but it seems like debris would enter and cause a vacuum leak eventually.
O'reilly reman brake booster adjustment
- Thread starter DodgeTransmissionsGoBoom
- Start date
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
First, welcome to our little corner of the world. And I like the handle you chose (although I might have chosen "dodgetransmissionswhimperanddie") LOL
So... what to do? The answer will depend on some variables. To wit...
- Another vehicle available while you work on this, or is this your only whip?
- The first thing I'd do is check in where you got the part. See if the rest of their stock has the same issue (you may need to bring something to measure the height of the booster on both units.
I'll guess that this is probably the same on their other units, as well.
If so, then the next question is...
- Any other in-town resource (AAP, AZ, etc.) ? See if you can find a different brand, with a different plunger / rod (AAP sells Wearever, for example, and the rod looks a little different on their page, vs. what I saw on O'Really's)
If they're the only game in town... then it's time to turn online. Amazon Prime Member? Rock Auto customer? RA only shows remans (Cardone looks to be the best of the lot, and I'd pick another brand, if they had a better one).
Amazon looks to have *only* the Cardone reman, for a 2008 (but their search engine doesn't always get 'all' or the 'right' parts for a particular vehicle - I thought I found an ACDelco (reman) for you, but when I brought up the part, it said it *didn't* fit.
Sometimes searching on another 'sister' vehicle can help. As I found, the cross-reference for your part covers the 2006-2008 models, for TB / Envoy / Rainier
15267004 appears to be the GM part number for this; an alternate is 19286813 (but I think the first one is the better fit.) Some good news - Amazon has 12 sources for this part in the US. But every one of them are *used* (auto recycling storefronts). Prices range from $75 to about $115 or so, and you can get the list HERE
Amazon Canada has one NEW one... at a GM dealer. In the US. Go figure...
Now, I don't suggest you order the above one, for $264 CDN, plus shipping... but the US dealer is listed as "Jim Butler Chevy Power House". Amazon didn't have any more info on the seller, but I used my Google-Fu, and found a Jim Butler Chevrolet in Fenton, MO.
HERE's the link to their parts order form (it's an inquiry; let them know you saw this part on Amazon's CA site and you want to know if they have it and will sell to you from the dealership). Or you can call them, if you prefer that.
Note that the US Amazon does NOT list this part or ol' Jim's Amazon storefront - so it won't help you to try and order from them.
There are a few other sources that might have the part; search on that part number and 'GM' in Google, and see what you come up with. But you're correct - it's 'officially' discontinued. Usually, there's a 'supersede' #, but I didn't see one. That, or Cardone 5474832 seem to be best options. Here's a snap of Rock's x-ref for the Cardone part:
Another source for you could be someplace like car-part.com -- since you may be forced to source a used part, you may as well have a site that specializes in used (junkyard) parts look for you. There are a ton available; if I knew where you were located in NC, I'd enter a zip code and narrow the results. But I have to leave something for you to do, right?
All of this took me a little over an hour. It was one of the more difficult searches I've done for parts. But, hopefully, this gives you some insight on 'options'.
Finally... if NOTHING above proves fruitful... you might be forced to modify the rod, modify the pedal, or substitute another part (maybe from an earlier MY range on the GMT360s, perhaps).
Good luck!
So... what to do? The answer will depend on some variables. To wit...
- Another vehicle available while you work on this, or is this your only whip?
- The first thing I'd do is check in where you got the part. See if the rest of their stock has the same issue (you may need to bring something to measure the height of the booster on both units.
I'll guess that this is probably the same on their other units, as well.
If so, then the next question is...
- Any other in-town resource (AAP, AZ, etc.) ? See if you can find a different brand, with a different plunger / rod (AAP sells Wearever, for example, and the rod looks a little different on their page, vs. what I saw on O'Really's)
If they're the only game in town... then it's time to turn online. Amazon Prime Member? Rock Auto customer? RA only shows remans (Cardone looks to be the best of the lot, and I'd pick another brand, if they had a better one).
Amazon looks to have *only* the Cardone reman, for a 2008 (but their search engine doesn't always get 'all' or the 'right' parts for a particular vehicle - I thought I found an ACDelco (reman) for you, but when I brought up the part, it said it *didn't* fit.
Sometimes searching on another 'sister' vehicle can help. As I found, the cross-reference for your part covers the 2006-2008 models, for TB / Envoy / Rainier
15267004 appears to be the GM part number for this; an alternate is 19286813 (but I think the first one is the better fit.) Some good news - Amazon has 12 sources for this part in the US. But every one of them are *used* (auto recycling storefronts). Prices range from $75 to about $115 or so, and you can get the list HERE
Amazon Canada has one NEW one... at a GM dealer. In the US. Go figure...
General Motors 15267004, Power Brake Booster, Power Brake Systems - Amazon Canada
General Motors 15267004, Power Brake Booster in Power Brake Systems.
www.amazon.ca
Now, I don't suggest you order the above one, for $264 CDN, plus shipping... but the US dealer is listed as "Jim Butler Chevy Power House". Amazon didn't have any more info on the seller, but I used my Google-Fu, and found a Jim Butler Chevrolet in Fenton, MO.
HERE's the link to their parts order form (it's an inquiry; let them know you saw this part on Amazon's CA site and you want to know if they have it and will sell to you from the dealership). Or you can call them, if you prefer that.
Note that the US Amazon does NOT list this part or ol' Jim's Amazon storefront - so it won't help you to try and order from them.
There are a few other sources that might have the part; search on that part number and 'GM' in Google, and see what you come up with. But you're correct - it's 'officially' discontinued. Usually, there's a 'supersede' #, but I didn't see one. That, or Cardone 5474832 seem to be best options. Here's a snap of Rock's x-ref for the Cardone part:
Another source for you could be someplace like car-part.com -- since you may be forced to source a used part, you may as well have a site that specializes in used (junkyard) parts look for you. There are a ton available; if I knew where you were located in NC, I'd enter a zip code and narrow the results. But I have to leave something for you to do, right?
All of this took me a little over an hour. It was one of the more difficult searches I've done for parts. But, hopefully, this gives you some insight on 'options'.
Finally... if NOTHING above proves fruitful... you might be forced to modify the rod, modify the pedal, or substitute another part (maybe from an earlier MY range on the GMT360s, perhaps).
Good luck!
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This is a customers vehicle and I've changed brake boosters in the past and they had adjustable ends on them. I'm going to try another one from oreillys. I was originally gonna get one from Napa but the shipping time was too long and it looked identical in the pics. I don't think I ever found one that said it fit on AAP with the vehicle details entered. And Amazon had the same cardone thing which looks like everything at the parts stores. I was going to get the autozone one but none of them stock them near me and they were going to force me to pay over the phone and it looked identical to the rest of them. I hate autozone tbh. O'reillys is the coolest near me when it comes to swapping things out even if I don't have my receipt they don't care lmao. But I was stupid to return the core so early I should have known better I could have probably used the rod out of the stock one. The used option crossed my mind but since this isn't my vehicle I like the option of something coming from a store so I can easily do exchanges. Like this current booster just barely touched the brakes like they get hot but don't smoke. Like I can turn the wheels if I use two arms and pull so it's not totally locked up. It feels like it's only a millimeter or two too long when bolting the cylinder back up. Imma try another one tomorrow and if that doesn't work imma try grinding it and if that doesn't work then I'll try tracking down an oem one from that dealer you told me about. I swear this is why I only buy toyotas old hondas and old nissans lmao I've never had to deal with crap like this😂. I'd think gm would have made that rod adjustable stock but nooooo they had to go vw on us and make it completely fixed and precisely that length.
First, welcome to our little corner of the world. And I like the handle you chose (although I might have chosen "dodgetransmissionswhimperanddie") LOL
So... what to do? The answer will depend on some variables. To wit...
- Another vehicle available while you work on this, or is this your only whip?
- The first thing I'd do is check in where you got the part. See if the rest of their stock has the same issue (you may need to bring something to measure the height of the booster on both units.
I'll guess that this is probably the same on their other units, as well.
If so, then the next question is...
- Any other in-town resource (AAP, AZ, etc.) ? See if you can find a different brand, with a different plunger / rod (AAP sells Wearever, for example, and the rod looks a little different on their page, vs. what I saw on O'Really's)
If they're the only game in town... then it's time to turn online. Amazon Prime Member? Rock Auto customer? RA only shows remans (Cardone looks to be the best of the lot, and I'd pick another brand, if they had a better one).
Amazon looks to have *only* the Cardone reman, for a 2008 (but their search engine doesn't always get 'all' or the 'right' parts for a particular vehicle - I thought I found an ACDelco (reman) for you, but when I brought up the part, it said it *didn't* fit.
Sometimes searching on another 'sister' vehicle can help. As I found, the cross-reference for your part covers the 2006-2008 models, for TB / Envoy / Rainier
15267004 appears to be the GM part number for this; an alternate is 19286813 (but I think the first one is the better fit.) Some good news - Amazon has 12 sources for this part in the US. But every one of them are *used* (auto recycling storefronts). Prices range from $75 to about $115 or so, and you can get the list HERE
Amazon Canada has one NEW one... at a GM dealer. In the US. Go figure...
General Motors 15267004, Power Brake Booster, Power Brake Systems - Amazon Canada
General Motors 15267004, Power Brake Booster in Power Brake Systems.www.amazon.ca
Now, I don't suggest you order the above one, for $264 CDN, plus shipping... but the US dealer is listed as "Jim Butler Chevy Power House". Amazon didn't have any more info on the seller, but I used my Google-Fu, and found a Jim Butler Chevrolet in Fenton, MO.
HERE's the link to their parts order form (it's an inquiry; let them know you saw this part on Amazon's CA site and you want to know if they have it and will sell to you from the dealership). Or you can call them, if you prefer that.
Note that the US Amazon does NOT list this part or ol' Jim's Amazon storefront - so it won't help you to try and order from them.
There are a few other sources that might have the part; search on that part number and 'GM' in Google, and see what you come up with. But you're correct - it's 'officially' discontinued. Usually, there's a 'supersede' #, but I didn't see one. That, or Cardone 5474832 seem to be best options. Here's a snap of Rock's x-ref for the Cardone part:
View attachment 99205
Another source for you could be someplace like car-part.com -- since you may be forced to source a used part, you may as well have a site that specializes in used (junkyard) parts look for you. There are a ton available; if I knew where you were located in NC, I'd enter a zip code and narrow the results. But I have to leave something for you to do, right?
All of this took me a little over an hour. It was one of the more difficult searches I've done for parts. But, hopefully, this gives you some insight on 'options'.
Finally... if NOTHING above proves fruitful... you might be forced to modify the rod, modify the pedal, or substitute another part (maybe from an earlier MY range on the GMT360s, perhaps).
Good luck!
Thanks for all that info tho it's the most I've found all day
Mooseman
Moderator
Since this is a relatively low failure rate part, I would have thrown a used one in there but I'm a cheap bastard.
What about grinding down the rod? I know it sounds kinda bad to do this but should work. Or just grab one from a junker.
Did you check that the brake pedal is coming back fully or some other binding there? Unbolting the booster from the brake pedal, can it come back further and retract the rod?
Brake pedal works fine and comes all the way back up. As soon as I loosen the master cylinder a few turns on both bolts the brakes free up on the front wheels so I know it's that new booster. And there is absolutely no adjustment anywhere on this booster other then grinding the rod down which I got that idea from people restoring classic gm vehicles with the same issue. I'm going to try another booster tomorrow and see if I maybe just got a dud. If the rod is too long for the brake pedal I have no idea how I would adjust that unless I somehow shimmed it on the firewall. I reused the stock gasket that was on the firewall with the oem booster.
I thought the rod itself was the adjuster, it screwed in or out, depending on what you were needing. Have they changed on this design?
No adjustments anywhere that I could find. I pulled the pin out and couldn't find any way to adjust it. I didn't see any adjustments on the pedal side either. The pin is just one machined piece of metal.
So this is just an idea, but you mentioned its just a few turns on the nuts, and the brakes release. I am wondering if you couldnt make a aluminum plate that would sit inbetween the firewall, and the brake booster, to give you those few threads.
The used ones I found all have a very thin spacer inbetween the two. Maybe thats whats missing?
The used ones I found all have a very thin spacer inbetween the two. Maybe thats whats missing?
I was talking about the nuts that hold the master cylinder to the booster. The booster to the firewall nuts made no difference it had this foam gasket which was falling apart but I managed to reuse it since I couldn't find another one I think it's to keep the booster from taking the paint off the firewall. The brake pedal floats in the eye hole on the rod so I know the pedal isn't constantly pushing on the rod.
I think the same process could be used inbetween the booster and the master. Fab up a plate on your old brake booster, and drop it in on the new booster. And test.
Somewhere, either inbetween the booster cup to master rod, or booster rod to diaphragm plate, its like 1/16 inch? longer, and creating havoc. The only reasonable option is to pull the booster, and drop in another booster, that the tolerances are better on (hopefully), or create that plate to remove the problem tolerance from the equation.
Somewhere, either inbetween the booster cup to master rod, or booster rod to diaphragm plate, its like 1/16 inch? longer, and creating havoc. The only reasonable option is to pull the booster, and drop in another booster, that the tolerances are better on (hopefully), or create that plate to remove the problem tolerance from the equation.
Only thing
Only thing about spacing the booster is the mc will no longer be pushing on the rubber gasket inside the booster causing it to pop up each time the brake is pressed causing leaks and debris to enter. The inner gasket has nothing holding it down except the mc for some reason. When I pressed the brake with the mc off the pin and gasket moved with it. I feel like grinding the pin would be the most clean and reliable install and if I screw up I can just go get another one under warranty lmao. But first im going to try another one. I wish gm didn't discontinue stuff so fast I mean 12 years really isn't that old at least to me.
Only thing about spacing the booster is the mc will no longer be pushing on the rubber gasket inside the booster causing it to pop up each time the brake is pressed causing leaks and debris to enter. The inner gasket has nothing holding it down except the mc for some reason. When I pressed the brake with the mc off the pin and gasket moved with it. I feel like grinding the pin would be the most clean and reliable install and if I screw up I can just go get another one under warranty lmao. But first im going to try another one. I wish gm didn't discontinue stuff so fast I mean 12 years really isn't that old at least to me.
Welcome to post GM Bailout parts world. They dont have to provide parts for vehicles prior to 2010, unless they want to.
With the grinding, I feel you have one that was machined wrong, and would get another unit. It should be smooth as butter.
With the grinding, I feel you have one that was machined wrong, and would get another unit. It should be smooth as butter.
Does the proper functioning of the Trailblazer Power Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor play a role in your Diagnostics? This is the ACDelco Version:
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Nope neither the stock one nor the reman one has that. The way I diagnosed the oem was bad was a CEL for running too lean. Checked fuel trims and ST was pegged at +35%. Smoked the engine found no leaks thanks to the check valve on the booster. At first I thought the MAF was bad because the numbers stabilized when I unplugged it. But just before I decided on a MAF swap I took vice grips and pinched shut the stock booster line and the fuel trims stabilized and bounced negative positive like they are suppose to. So ik the diaphragm was torn somehow in the oem one. I finally got another one from oreillys. I'll drop pics of everything on this post. This new booster may work but it's too late today to install it I'll be swapping it in the morning.
Attachments
Instructions are pretty much useless.
Attachments
Have you scoured the List of GM OEM Service Manuals thankfully set up for us by @Mooseman? If Not... Check out this Link and see if you can find the one you want that might have MORE Service and Diagnostic Information:
gmtnation.com
One additional suggestion for SEARCHING these myriad PDFs for the specific things you are interested in dialing in on, is to first *Click* on the "Edit" Tab on the Upper Left area of the Screen...then select the "Find" (Magnifying Glass) and then Type In the Key Words of the Topic of the Item you want to discover into the Open Space Rectangle right on the bottom of the PDF Screen.
In this instance... use the word "Booster" for example and after the First thing related comes up in the PDF highlighted for you in the Center Marquis... hit the either Left or Right Arrows to keep searching forwards or Backwards through each PDF. Trust me... Digital OEM PDFs can be a bit troublesome to locate ALL of the related information just by generally "Browsing" through them. This by no means diminishes just how Valuable these PDFs really are as you will soon find out.
Need service manuals? Get them here!
********* Please note that the FireFox browser has issues with the password handling and that these downloads are not under HTTPS, flagging them as security risks. Chrome and Edge work fine once you allow the download. ********* ATSG 4L60E Manual 4L60E Rebuild Manual 2005 GMC Envoy XUV...
gmtnation.com
One additional suggestion for SEARCHING these myriad PDFs for the specific things you are interested in dialing in on, is to first *Click* on the "Edit" Tab on the Upper Left area of the Screen...then select the "Find" (Magnifying Glass) and then Type In the Key Words of the Topic of the Item you want to discover into the Open Space Rectangle right on the bottom of the PDF Screen.
In this instance... use the word "Booster" for example and after the First thing related comes up in the PDF highlighted for you in the Center Marquis... hit the either Left or Right Arrows to keep searching forwards or Backwards through each PDF. Trust me... Digital OEM PDFs can be a bit troublesome to locate ALL of the related information just by generally "Browsing" through them. This by no means diminishes just how Valuable these PDFs really are as you will soon find out.
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Have you scoured the List of GM OEM Service Manuals thankfully set up for us by @Mooseman? If Not... Check out this Link and see if you can find the one you want that might have MORE Service and Diagnostic Information:
Need service manuals? Get them here!
********* Please note that the FireFox browser has issues with the password handling and that these downloads are not under HTTPS, flagging them as security risks. Chrome and Edge work fine once you allow the download. ********* ATSG 4L60E Manual 4L60E Rebuild Manual 2005 GMC Envoy XUV...
One additional suggestion for SEARCHING these myriad PDFs for the specific things you are interested in dialing in on, is to first *Click* on the "Edit" Tab on the Upper Left area of the Screen...then select the "Find" (Magnifying Glass) and then Type In the Key Words of the Topic of the Item you want to discover into the Open Space Rectangle right on the bottom of the PDF Screen.
In this instance... use the word "Booster" for example and after the First thing related comes up in the PDF highlighted for you in the Center Marquis... hit the either Left or Right Arrows to keep searching forwards or Backwards through each PDF. Trust me... Digital OEM PDFs can be a bit troublesome to locate ALL of the related information just by generally "Browsing" through them. This by no means diminishes just how Valuable these PDFs really are as you will soon find out.
I couldn't find anything other then just replacing the brake booster assembly with an oem one.
New booster installed and the rod is visibly shorter. Only thing I noticed was that after I went for a drive. I jacked the front of the truck up and the wheel wouldn't spin I was like f************. I pumped the pedal inside until hard and all the air was out of the booster and then the wheel unlocked and spun freely. Maybe that's what they do after a drive? I sure hope so I'm sick of swapping these things and the pcm connector decided to break the little tabs off the computer because somehow the gasket had popped off it's seat inside the plug. It's plugged in and holding down firm but I hope it doesnt come loose. I swear I've never had a vehicle this troublesome. One thing after another.
The first pic is the one I removed and the second pic is the one I replaced it with it still has the tag on it. The pin is visibly shorter on it.
