NEED HELP Oil pan removal/rod bearings

[06'9-7x]

So I am getting ready to attempt replacing all my rod bearings. This thread- <

Help removing oil pan, what am I doing wrong?

Stupid me thinking "there's nothing to it". Taking off the oil pan to look inside since there is low oil pressure when vehicle is warmed up and there is a light tapping sound (when warm). Oil pump replaced 20K ago. Figured I should look inside and peek at the bearings, see if oil pump screen...

gmtnation.com

>.
tells me how to remove the oil pan (is it the same for my AWD 2006 Saab 9-7x?)
Are there any pictures anyone has that may help out or any advice? Manuals?
I can take pictures along my way and tell everyone if it works out or not if anyone is interested. When I remove the oil pan I will inspect it as well as check how bad the journals are before I go through with replacing the bearings. If this doesn't work, I'm not too worried, I will just buy a used engine online and swap it in.

 

[mrrsm]

To ground yourself in the Best "Visual Learning" sort of experience on this entire project... One of our GMTN Members @Kevin Nadeau has created an Excellent Five Part Youtube Video Series that includes showing the MISTAKES he made in trying to Unbolt and Remove the Crankcase Oil Pan after failing to remove the TWO HIDDEN FASTENERS hiding under the Rubber Plug(s) under the Transmission to Engine Block Mating Point, Nonetheless... his honesty about Cracking the case in two places will help you to avoid the same pitfalls.

Also... Very recently... @gmcman removed his Crankcase Oil Pan to perform an R&R of the Connecting Rod Bearings as well so PM him for the Link to his Thread. I'm suggesting that you Download and Save ALL Five Parts of this Series and watch them all the way through before deciding on whether an Engine Swap with a Low Mileage Motor that fits within the PCM to Motor Year-Make-Model Matrix for your particular Vehicle is well within your Mechanical 'Wheel House'. Here is the First Video:

Also... If you visit my "Flickr-Bucket" at the next Link... I have MANY Photo Albums of the GM Atlas 4.2L LL8 Engine memorialized for Dis-Assembly and includes Static Images and well as Albums containing the requisite OEM Parts-Pieces-Part Numbers of most of what is needed for a Complete Engine Re-Build... Literally in the Thousands of Images that may be of some use for your Pending Project... all Public and Free for the Taking:

Mr. RSM Mr. RSM’s albums | Flickr

www.flickr.com

 

[06'9-7x]

@MRRSM thank you. I will watch all of them as well as message the other member. I'm very much hoping replacing the bearings will work. I've done it in other vehicles before and have been very lucky. But I know not all cars are mechanically similar.

If it comes to swapping engines, I've found engines for my year for $1,000 online. I don't think it's too bad. And I won't do the swap alone. I'll have my father help here and there who is a lifelong mechanic.

 

[mrrsm]

Excellent... I have some considerable experience with this Engine and GMT360 Platform and if I had it to do over again in several cases... I would opt for the Low Mileage-Comparable Engine Swap route instead of spending all of the Time-Money and Considerable Effort that anyone taking up the Challenging Tasks involved with trying to perform an Engine Repair 'In Situ' must deal with... versus working over a Swap In Engine on an Engine Stand.

Doing it this way will ensure that there will be NO Problems with the Timing Chain Set, Oil Pan Pick Up being as Clogged as Kevin's wound up or any other concerns like Leaking Front and Back Engine Oil Seals,etc., because this Motor is a DREAM to work on when Mounted on an Engine Stand and THAT is when everything that can be done to it should be completed... WELL B4 THE ENGINE SWAP TAKES PLACE!

BOLB...

(Best Of Luck, Brother)

PS...

Here is an Example of a Piece of Knowledge that came originally from @Mooseman on how to separate the Super Strong Gray Silicone Factory Sealant that prevents "Just pulling off the Oil Pan...". If you look at the Images I made of a Crankcase-Oilpan I removed and was showing How to Clean Up the Flanges First... prior to a Re-Install... There are TWO ALUMINUM PADS HIGHLIGHTED IN PINK.

Those two points have Threaded Holes where you take TWO of the Smaller Crankcase-Oil Pan Fasteners...and SLOWLY AND EVENLY THREAD IN THE BOLTS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE CRANKCASE IN ORDER TO PUSH AGAINST THE LOWER BLOCK FLANGE AND BREAK LOOSE THE SOLID SEAL IN BETWEEN. In the absence of doing it this way...Removing the Oil Pan from Engine Block is Well Nigh IMPOSSIBLE!

GM_02_42L_OILPAN

This Album shows the 2002 GM Atlas LL8 4.2L Engine Crank-Case Oilpan after being cleaned and prepped for re-installation.

www.flickr.com

 

[Mooseman]

For an actual manual, check for the link in my signature.

I've been there with it in the vehicle and it's not a fun job.

Remove the oil pan