Oil Filter Removal Trick?

l008com

Original poster
Member
Feb 19, 2016
886
Massachusetts
Is there some way to change your oil in your truck without making a huge mess? No matter how much oil I let drain out of the drain plug, I always get a huge flood coming out when I unscrew the filter. It gets all over your hand/arm and also all over that cross piece that spreads it all over and drips all over the place. Who designed this thing? I always try to put a plastic bag over my hand so i can flip it inside out and capture everything, but no matter how hard I inspect the bag for holes, I always end up with oil all over me.
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,019
Get a small bowl and when the oil has finished draining from the pan, punch a hole in the bottom of the filter with a screwdriver...that's all I've got.
 

BrianF

Member
Jul 24, 2013
1,192
West central Sask.
I had seen an advertisement for oil udder. Its a rubber condom nipple thing that encases the filter and allows you to unscrew it and drain it.

I just have the pan under, crack the filter and do my best to keep my fingers on the side of the filter, not palming the bottom.
 
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Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
I also crack the filter, with the pan under it, and let it finish dripping, before removing it completely. That tends to minimize spills for me. :twocents:
 

Reprise

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Member
Jul 22, 2015
2,724
Best stock / value for $ solution is going to be Matt's. But if you don't like that one, here are some others...

- Get some nitrile / latex gloves. These are actually good for other car maintenance tasks, too.
Besides making cleanup (of you) a lot easier, you avoid carcinogens in the used oil (but unless you're an FT oil change tech, I really don't think there's much to worry about.)

- Make some changes to your procedure:
  • Drain your sump into the pan, then reattach the drain plug.
  • Get a rag, shop towel, etc., and drape it over the crossmember. You can use something placed on top (extension, socket, etc.) to hold the towel in place
  • Move the drain pan close to your arm (but not directly under, as you need to turn the filter with your arm / wrist -- especially if you don't use a cap or strap wrench.)
  • Once you get the filter loosened just a bit (before the seepage starts), move the pan directly under the filter. Turn the filter off, and when you can feel it detaching from the thread boss, turn it over and drain into the pan. This does require a little dexterity.
  • When sufficiently drained, turn filter so drain holes are facing back upward, and grab the rag / towel from the crossmember. Use that to wipe the outside of the filter and place it on the floor, etc., then place the filter 'holes up' on the rag.
  • If you really want to be neat about it, having the box for the new one handy provides a good place to put the old one into, after you get the new one on (don't forget to lube the rubber seal! :biggrin: And dipping into the used oil is fine for this)
  • With the pan out of the way, along with the filter, use the towel / rag again to wipe the crossmember & anywhere else needed. But there should be very little in the way of spillage, if you weren't working haphazardly.
I've used all of these steps at different times, until I got the hang of the particular vehicle I was working on. I'll say that the Envoy's crossmember, relative to the filter (I have the V8, like you) is in a troublesome place, and it's nearly impossible to get the filter off without tilting it (and spilling in the process). And I have smallish hands, too. I imagine it's even worse for those with big mitts. What I can say is that I have very little mess after my oil changes, after I've done a couple, and have seen 'what works'. My hangup is getting it on the garage floor, so I can understand your anguish.

Now... there's one more option that I can think of. It'll cost some $$ and time to set it up, but you'll never have to worry about that filter spilling again...
  • Get a LS-based oil filter relocation kit and install it.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
A technique described somewhere is to use a milk carton. Cut it down to size (length) and slide it over the filter once you have loosen the filter a bit. Then with the milk carton in place, slowly unspin the filter. The flex of the carton allows you to squeeze it from the outside and still turn the filter... much like the "bag idea" that was at the start of the post. Most of the oil will end up in the carton which you then remove along with filter there after.
 
Last edited:

l008com

Original poster
Member
Feb 19, 2016
886
Massachusetts
A technique described somewhere is to use a milk carton. Cut it down to size (length) and slide it over the filter once you have loosen the filter a bit. Then with the milk carton in place, slowly unspin the filter. The flex of the carton allows you to squeeze it from the outside and still turn the filter... much like the "bag idea" that was at the start of the post. Most of the oil will end up in the carton which you then remove along with filter there after.

I don't think you could get a milk carton around the filter on mine, not with that cross bracket right under the filter. I wonder if the filter on the i6 is in a more accessible spot than the V8
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
the "technique" is still the same with "modification". You slice the side of the carton to allow a "door" to be opened to slide the carton into place. Then tape the slice back up to make the container "whole" again. And yes, the I6 filter access is likely a bit better but still some what of a pain.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
I've had both the V8 and I6 and the V8 was much easier. The I6's filter is right above a frame crossmember. They even put a plastic piece that would direct the oil from the filter when changing it. And getting a filter wrench on it isn't a straight access neither. I go through the wheel well through the frame.
 
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Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
I cut a piece of rain gutter and use it like a sluice. The length depends on whether you use ramps or have a lifted truck. One end in the drain pan and the top up under the filter. I do the filter first.

I've also used a cut-off 2 liter soda bottle.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
For the I6, I turn the wheels to the right fully then loosen the LR 15MM bolt of the splash guard, then remove the other 3, that way I can swing it out of the way leaving it attached.

Once the oil has drained, then the filter is loosened, let it drain for a few min.

Then with your latex gloves on, unscrew the filter from the bottom and lower it straight down. It will spill a little then just wipe down the small piece of plastic against the frame.

Very little spillage and mess.
 
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JayArr

Member
Sep 24, 2018
504
Mission BC Canada
I have one of those oil filter removers that looks like a short cup and fits on the end of a 3/8" extension socket. I use a wobble extension to get around the frame member. I crack the filter loose with the socket wrench then remove the wrench and spin the filter a bit and the oil leaks out and runs down the extension and drips into the pan nice and neat. Each time it stops dripping I spin it a little more until finally I can spin it off and carefully lower it and drop the whole thing into the pan. Wipe my hands off and crawl out.


Later I pull it out of the pan, separate the filter, clean up the extension and cup/tool and then I cut open the filter to check for filings.
 

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